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Mayhems users club - Page 943

post #9421 of 15410
If it isn't plasticizer what else could be causing the floating particles of white in the coolant? I had same issue and the vortexing in my bay reservoir caused it to deposit thickly around the outlet port. It also seemed to like the plastic led shields at the bottom of the reservoir (monsoon premium 2). It looks like lime scale but was using distilled and liquid utopia, followed by a run with x1 UV blue. The x1 actually made chalky foam bubbles in the reservoir from whatever it was tumbling in the vortex.
post #9422 of 15410
this build has been a nightmare it first started with a broken motherboard.

Stupid me did not test the board prior to instalation.

so i flushed the system after part 2, when i saw no bubbles and stuff (flushed like 3 times or so) i filled it with ek coolant.

then i got to power the machine and nothing ... bad board.

many tests insued, and i got the board to the store where i bought it.


in the meawhile the loop stayed as it was.

after 15 days or so when i got my board back, i inspected the loop and a strange thing was happening.

the tubing was cloudy, but the reservoir was not.

strange i thought to myself.

i built the computer again and did a test run of the pump.

the minute i turned it on the cloudiness came from the tubes to the reservoir.

i then flushed everyting again and you guys know the rest of the story.

i really think something is reacting with the tubing.
post #9423 of 15410
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Ah, this is great news. Now I can use blue coolant to cool my rocket engines without it staining my magical indestructible acrylic tubes. XD

In all seriousness great news on the dyes. Soon enough people asking "Will this stain my blocks" will be a thing of the past

-Z

Doubt it... Even with non-staining dye, people will still ask if it stains
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmac View Post

That was what I was thinking was adding the silver, to the oil black, but I do not want the pearl stuff, because even on Mayhems site, it says a number of things about not being a permanent fluid, and stagnant spots might be issues, and my water block on CPU is on of the Failed blocks for that stuff, so it really isn't an option, although, I love the appearance, nothing IMHO beats the look on the market that I have seen yet.

If you do just a touch of booster, it will not look quite like Aurora yet and will have just a shimmer to it, without the swirls. This is your best bet to try to get something like the liquid metal vids.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

@ZytheEKS you can express your dissapoint direct at the resellers who have got no balls and are being blackmailed by xspc and there lies. Never the less it won't stop us wink.gif. thumb.gif

Such a shame. Thought we were past this?
post #9424 of 15410
Hi guys and gals

My rig currently looks like this:



I have Mayhems Pastel white in it and after almost 2 years I'm thinking of changing coolant to Aurora 2 Silver for a change of pace.

The components of the loop are:
aqua computer Aquastream XT pump
XSPC Crossflow Radiator EX240
Phobya Xtreme 200 Radiator
EK Water Blocks EK-FC680 GTX+ - Nickel
EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy
EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir
Koolance Flow Meter INS-FM17N
E22 Ultra Clear Acryllic Tubing

The pump is behind the res and pumps the coolant up. The flow meter is in front of the 200mm rad wrapped in cloth to dampen the weird ticking noise the reed contact makes.
The Phobya Rad worries me the most because the ports are not at the edge: Pic here
Do you think I can I run Aurora 2 let's say for a year?
Or should I just go with a less problematic coolant? In that case what do you recommend?
(I have RGB lighting, which also extends to under my glass desk, and usually have it continuously slowly looping through all colors)



Thanks in advance
post #9425 of 15410
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet5tar View Post

Hi guys and gals

My rig currently looks like this:



I have Mayhems Pastel white in it and after almost 2 years I'm thinking of changing coolant to Aurora 2 Silver for a change of pace.

The components of the loop are:
aqua computer Aquastream XT pump
XSPC Crossflow Radiator EX240
Phobya Xtreme 200 Radiator
EK Water Blocks EK-FC680 GTX+ - Nickel
EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy
EK Water Blocks EK-RES X3 150 Reservoir
Koolance Flow Meter INS-FM17N
E22 Ultra Clear Acryllic Tubing

The pump is behind the res and pumps the coolant up. The flow meter is in front of the 200mm rad wrapped in cloth to dampen the weird ticking noise the reed contact makes.
The Phobya Rad worries me the most because the ports are not at the edge: Pic here
Do you think I can I run Aurora 2 let's say for a year?
Or should I just go with a less problematic coolant? In that case what do you recommend?
(I have RGB lighting, which also extends to under my glass desk, and usually have it continuously slowly looping through all colors)



Thanks in advance


I've lost 3 of the Koolance flow meters, locked up solid or nearly so, read way low, due to Aurora gunking them up, and they can't be cleaned out and made workable again.

Avoid Aurora and the Koolance flow meters.


Darlene
post #9426 of 15410
I'm honestly not a Koolance fan so I'd suggest avoiding them altogether. I've had so many of their plated fittings flake and fail. Thanks for ruining my loops koolance.
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The Earwig 2014
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post #9427 of 15410
Thanks for info... Thread is very informative
post #9428 of 15410
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT-Maverick View Post

I'm honestly not a Koolance fan so I'd suggest avoiding them altogether. I've had so many of their plated fittings flake and fail. Thanks for ruining my loops koolance.

Yeah but those Koolance flow meters work rather well imho. I've been using two of them in different loops for a while now with no complaints so far, and can't say the same about the Aquacomputer one I had. They apparently aren't Aurora proof though. Then again, lots of good watercooling gear should not be used with Aurora.
post #9429 of 15410
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT-Maverick View Post

I'm honestly not a Koolance fan so I'd suggest avoiding them altogether. I've had so many of their plated fittings flake and fail. Thanks for ruining my loops koolance.


Writing them off altogether, isn't quite required IMHO, there is well documented cases of their black fittings turning to poop, but they have some good quality products too, like any company, they have room for improvement.
post #9430 of 15410
Quote:
Originally Posted by electro2u View Post

If it isn't plasticizer what else could be causing the floating particles of white in the coolant? I had same issue and the vortexing in my bay reservoir caused it to deposit thickly around the outlet port. It also seemed to like the plastic led shields at the bottom of the reservoir (monsoon premium 2). It looks like lime scale but was using distilled and liquid utopia, followed by a run with x1 UV blue. The x1 actually made chalky foam bubbles in the reservoir from whatever it was tumbling in the vortex.

Well that's the magic question there, isn't it. The way I see it there's to possibilities.

Something in the coolant is decomposing, perhaps part 2 found it's way into a pocket in the radiator and was never flushed out properly.

Or

He was given Pro LRT instead of Adv LRT and it's DEHP.

Adv LRT isn't going to do this, and DEFINITELY not do this at this rapid of a rate.

-Z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vindicare View Post

this build has been a nightmare it first started with a broken motherboard.

Stupid me did not test the board prior to instalation.

so i flushed the system after part 2, when i saw no bubbles and stuff (flushed like 3 times or so) i filled it with ek coolant.

then i got to power the machine and nothing ... bad board.

many tests insued, and i got the board to the store where i bought it.


in the meawhile the loop stayed as it was.

after 15 days or so when i got my board back, i inspected the loop and a strange thing was happening.

the tubing was cloudy, but the reservoir was not.

strange i thought to myself.

i built the computer again and did a test run of the pump.

the minute i turned it on the cloudiness came from the tubes to the reservoir.

i then flushed everyting again and you guys know the rest of the story.

i really think something is reacting with the tubing.

Where are you located? Your best bet here is to replace the tubing. Don't buy tubing by the foot, buy it in clearly marked packaging. This isn't the first time I've seen companies sell Pro LRT in place of Adv LRT. What basically happened is Primochill discontinued Pro LRT and replaced it with Adv LRT. A LOT of retailers who perhaps weren't very knowledgeable in the hobby (computer stores who don't specialize in cooling) had a surplus of Pro LRT. You can see what happens from here.

-Z
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I've lost 3 of the Koolance flow meters, locked up solid or nearly so, read way low, due to Aurora gunking them up, and they can't be cleaned out and made workable again.

Avoid Aurora and the Koolance flow meters.


Darlene

Avoid Aurora with Koolance flow meters*

Aurora works fine. Koolance flow meters work fine. They just don't work fine together. tongue.gif

-Z
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmac View Post

Writing them off altogether, isn't quite required IMHO, there is well documented cases of their black fittings turning to poop, but they have some good quality products too, like any company, they have room for improvement.

Their flow meters work fine, it's just that they're mechanical flow meters. The Aurora particles get stuck in the turbine and block it from moving.

-Z
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