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[Build Log] Corsair Obsidian 650D, 3770K, 2x GTX670, red/black theme - FINISHED - Page 8

post #71 of 133
Thread Starter 
The weather is nice and cool.. and it has been too long since I have worked on this thing. So, here are some updates. smile.gif


Motherboard installed! by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
In order to measure cables and start sleeving, I had to install the motherboard. It is so small, it makes the case seem huge. smile.gif


I/O Panel and bezel by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
The Republic of Gamers I/O panel bezel looks nice. Very good fit and appearance.


Grommets by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Here I am starting to install all of the grommets. 8 in the top and 8 in the front. The small slotted screwdriver is to push the inner lip through the hole.


Grommets, fan grill and screws by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I just sat the chrome fan grills on the grommets and slipped the stainless steel cap screws through, just to get a feel for the appearance. The grills will be candy apple red, in keeping with the theme.


Grommets installed in front by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Grommets installed on the front panel.


Tapping radiator holes by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I used a 4mm x .7 tap on all of the holes on the radiators. They will be held in place with 4mm socket head stainless steel screws.


Temporary installation, Front Radiator by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I installed the fans and the radiator in the front temporarily so I can take measurements of the fan cables and plan routing better. I like it! It looks like it was made for it!


Fans/Radiator on the front by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
The fan labels will all be covered up or removed.


Temporary installation, Top radiator by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Man, I planned that well. It is a tight fit. Perfect!


Temporary installation, Top radiator 2 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Another angle to show that there is SOME room... not much. smile.gif

Maybe some more tomorrow... thanks for watching!
Edited by n3farious - 12/4/12 at 1:02pm
post #72 of 133
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by conntick View Post

That's what I call delivering to the people! The mod on the top 240 shroud looks reeeeal professional If I didn't know any better I'd think the case was like that stock. Brilliant job! thumb.gif

I appreciate it! Comments like this motivate me to work faster! biggrin.gif
post #73 of 133
This is coming along fabulously...I would love to have that radiator shroud for my 650D too, hint hint thumb.gif
post #74 of 133
Wow, I am in the process of building almost the exact same build (core components)! This looks great!

Am curious if you have tried to mount the GPU blocks yet. I am curious about the distance between the cards as I am trying to determine if I can use a single slot bridge to link them on that board!
Sweaty Box
(10 items)
 
Stacker T01 v5.0
(10 items)
 
Sturbin' Box
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5960X ASUS Rampage V Extreme 2x Nvidia 1080ti SLI 32GB Corsair Dominator DDR4 3400Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 850 pro NVMe M.2 Custom EK watercooled loop Windows 10 Pro Triple LG 4K 27" 
PowerCase
Cosair 1500Ti CaseLabs M10 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Delidded i7 3770K @ 5Ghz ASUS Maximus V Gene EVGA GTX 670 SLI - Heatkiller Blocks 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 2400Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 840 EVO Custom Loop - EK Supreme HF Windows 7 Pro 64-bit Dell 30" + 2 x Dell 24" 
PowerCase
Sparkle Gold 1200W CM Stacker T01 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X6 1055T @4.0GHz (308x13) / 3.08GHz NB ASUS Crosshair IV Formula w/EK full coverage block ATI 5870x2 Crossfired @ 950/1250 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
OCZ Vertex 3 SSD Swifttech Apogee Drive Block/Pump Windows 7 64bit Pro ASUS 27" LCD 
PowerCase
Corsair Professional Series Gold 650W  Lian-Li PC-650A 
  hide details  
Reply
Sweaty Box
(10 items)
 
Stacker T01 v5.0
(10 items)
 
Sturbin' Box
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5960X ASUS Rampage V Extreme 2x Nvidia 1080ti SLI 32GB Corsair Dominator DDR4 3400Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 850 pro NVMe M.2 Custom EK watercooled loop Windows 10 Pro Triple LG 4K 27" 
PowerCase
Cosair 1500Ti CaseLabs M10 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Delidded i7 3770K @ 5Ghz ASUS Maximus V Gene EVGA GTX 670 SLI - Heatkiller Blocks 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 2400Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 840 EVO Custom Loop - EK Supreme HF Windows 7 Pro 64-bit Dell 30" + 2 x Dell 24" 
PowerCase
Sparkle Gold 1200W CM Stacker T01 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X6 1055T @4.0GHz (308x13) / 3.08GHz NB ASUS Crosshair IV Formula w/EK full coverage block ATI 5870x2 Crossfired @ 950/1250 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
OCZ Vertex 3 SSD Swifttech Apogee Drive Block/Pump Windows 7 64bit Pro ASUS 27" LCD 
PowerCase
Corsair Professional Series Gold 650W  Lian-Li PC-650A 
  hide details  
Reply
post #75 of 133
I just came across this build and all i can say is drool.gif IL be doing similar build ( Same case and mobo ) but case will be a blood red color
Edited by tt-Prodigy15 - 11/29/12 at 5:10am
post #76 of 133
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davin View Post

This is coming along fabulously...I would love to have that radiator shroud for my 650D too, hint hint thumb.gif

I wish I could quit my real job and build stuff like this for the community. It's just not in the cards. ;-) I do appreciate the kind words!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phobos223 View Post

Wow, I am in the process of building almost the exact same build (core components)! This looks great!
Am curious if you have tried to mount the GPU blocks yet. I am curious about the distance between the cards as I am trying to determine if I can use a single slot bridge to link them on that board!

Thanks! I have, and will be posting a picture this afternoon. Let me know if there are any specific measurements you want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tt-Prodigy15 View Post

I just came across this build and all i can say is drool.gif IL be doing similar build ( Same case and mobo ) but case will be a blood red color

Thanks smile.gif A couple of the shots I will post this afternoon include my red side panels... I think they will be finished this weekend. I should be able to polish them out and mount the acrylic!

Thanks all and sorry for being so long in posting any updates.
post #77 of 133
Thread Starter 
OK.. here's a BIG update. I have not posted anything in a while and I apologize. It is because of the holidays, work and to some extent being at a point of unknown in the project which has had me somewhat reluctant to pick it up. I'm past that at this point and have dove in head-first. ;-)

Back on October 18th I put the water blocks and rear shield on the GPUs.


GPU front - bare by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I stripped the factory heat sink fan unit from both GPUs. It looks so slim without all of that on there.


GPU front - bare by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I added the grey heat transfer tape shown... and forgot to take a shot where I also covered all of the other SMD components. That was a lot of cutting and peeling. I dare say, annoying.


GPU back-bare by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Here is the back of the GPU before I put the backer plate on or mount the water block.


GPU backplane by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I think it looks awesome! I cut the heat transfer tape out of the EVGA cutout. It was a little distracting. Also, with the water block, the threads were different than the factory HSF, so I had to buy a lot of tiny, expensive hex head screws.


Single GPU complete by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Here's the EK water block mounted on one of the GPUs.


Complete GPU coolers by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Add a bridge, and multiply the cards x2 and you get this monstrous mass of copper, and acrylic. It is a monolithic part at this point and weighs several pounds.

... Then on November 4th, I decided to tackle the side window. This is another one that I have been putting off. Why? Well, I ordered a nice piece of cast 1/4" acrylic for the side, cut to size. I have 50' of channel molding that I got from Grainger, etc. However, I just wasn't happy with the thought of using the monstrously thick molding and in some tests, it just wouldn't make the tight radius corners I want. It took me a while to convince myself of this because I spent a fair amount of money on the molding... and was what I was initially set on doing. Also, I would have to order another window since you can't just go buy 1/4" cast acrylic locally (even in Dallas?!?! weird). Well, the window arrived (I found a great seller on eBay if anyone is interested.. he shipped both windows.. cut to size, gave me the scrap and packed it very well) the previous week and got me motivated to start cutting.

I decided to follow the same basic height and corner radius as the factory window, but make it wider... symmetric... on both sides. Here's how I went about it:


Cutting corners for the case window by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I wanted the case window to be symmetric in design, so I measured the 'narrow' side and transferred those measurements to the 'wide' side. If you look closely you can see the black sharpie marks. The outer line is where the cast acrylic will extend to on the inside.
I used a bi-metal hole saw which matched the radius of the factory corners.


Cutting corners 2 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Just another view so you can see the overall panel better. (I had the panel clamped down in two places while drilling).


Masked window by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Once I cut both of the corners on the 'wide' end of the panel, I used those cutouts as the guideline for laying out the long cuts. Since I am flush mounting the acrylic on the inside, I also had to remove the flange from the factory window.


Cutting window straight by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Using a reinforced cutoff wheel and my trusty ancient Dremel to cut the long stretches of the window opening. I went through about 1.4 wheels per side. I'm glad I bought them in bulk. ;-)
Also, good protective eye-ware is a must with this! I had one disc fly apart and hit me in the forehead. It left a nasty red mark. I can only imagine the damage it could do in an eye.


Corner detail by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Ah... now to tackle the lip on one of the factory corners. I think I will use the hole in my backer board from the new corners I drilled earlier as a guide.


Corner detail 1 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I lined up the corner with the outline of the cut in the backer board. I gave it about 1mm of space. You are always able to take material off with a grinder, but almost impossible to add it back if you cut too much!


Corner detail 2 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Almost through!


Corner detail 3 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
... and done! I used two heavy bar clamps to keep the panel tightly attached to the backer board. Bam!


Window cutout by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I used a flat file to clean up the straight edges... to make sure they were straight. And then used a combination of various rotary sanding devices to clean up the corners.


Then a couple of days later (took that long to finish the edges out and sand... I am doing this in the evening for an hour here and there or on the weekend)...



Solid side panel black by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
After sanding the side of the solid panel I painted a base coat of black gloss. This will be the foundation for the marbleized finish I am going to attempt.


... and a couple of days after that (11/17)...


Windowed side panel black by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
And gloss black on the windowed side of the case. The plastic I am using to both protect my work surface and to do the effect is... dry cleaning bags. smile.gif It is cheap and the ideal weight to give me nice tight wrinkles.


Windowed side panel silver by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I had to work really fast doing this so I couldn't get any 'during' shots. On top of the fully cured black, I sprayed a HEAVY coat of silver and immediately pressed the plastic into the paint.. let it set for a few seconds, and then peeled the plastic off. It removes the silver paint and leaves the marble-like veins. I did this with rattle-can rustoleum paints. Some people said it can't be done with rattle cans. I like proving people wrong. biggrin.gif Granted, it would have been MUCH easier to use my HPLV gun with a drying retardant, but it would have involved a lot more setup, paint cost, mixing, cleanup, etc. I do not think I would have been able to pull this off in the summer here in Texas. Even with it around 80F the propellant evaporates VERY fast.


Solid side panel silver by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
More of the same on the solid side panel. It looks very cool in my opinion.


Windowed side panel marbled - one coat of red by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
I used the same candy apple red I am using as accents in other parts of the build. This is after one coat. As you can tell, the rougher parts of the silver will take a few more coats to get covered.


Solid side panel marbled - two coats of red by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
This is after two coats of red. It will take 2-4 coats total to give me the deep red I am looking for and to fully hide the raw silver.


Side Panel with more coats of red by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Here is the non-windowed side panel with four coats of candy apple red. I will follow this with some very light wet sanding (probably with 600 grit) and one more coat of red. As you can see there is a fair amount of roughness to the texture as shown by the highlights.

Since then, I have done several coats of clear and wet sanded twice. I put my final coat of clear on it this past weekend and hope to final sand and buff next weekend. Until then you will just have to wait on more pictures!

I'm going to break this post here.... since the next set of pictures is related to cables and was a few weeks later...
post #78 of 133
Thread Starter 
Last night 12/2, I finally tackled my fist cable. Scary stuff for a nub. Thanks to Lutr0 for posting his guides and videos. It helped a LOT!


Starting to sleeve by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Here are all of the tools and supplies I am using to make my custom length, heat-shrinkless, sleeved cables. This is for one of the two PCI-E cables I need to make. I used one of the full-length cables to measure out roughly how long they need to be. Each card takes two 6-pin cables, so two 12-pin connectors and 4 6-pin connectors to re-do. I drew out my connectors, showed which were yellow (heavier gauge for power), which ones will be sleeved red (the EVGA card has the connectors facing each other... kind of weird... so I can't be consistent in my pattern), where the heavy ground lead is, etc.. a LOT of planning to make a stupid 190-245mm cable. ;-)


Starting to sleeve 2 by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Just another view of my 'stuff' for cables and sleeves.


PCI-E Cable by Satterwhite.C, on Flickr
Here is my first cable I made and sleeved. Thanks to Lutro0 for the youtube guides and thanks to MDPC for making awesome sleeving material! I will be getting some tiny zip-ties for the final build. I am annoyed with how the connectors are laid out on the EVGA card. Because of the 'flip' and twist, I can't get the perfectly clean look I was envisioning. Oh well, worry about what you can control, and let the rest go... I keep telling myself that. smile.gif

OK... that's it for now. I will probably knock out the other PCI-E cable this week and hopefully the motherboard and drive cables this weekend.
Edited by n3farious - 12/4/12 at 8:46pm
post #79 of 133
This is the kind of build logs i love, where the user brings out sander, dremel and so on. Looking really good so far, keep it up! thumb.gif
post #80 of 133
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertMwugabi View Post

This is the kind of build logs i love, where the user brings out sander, dremel and so on. Looking really good so far, keep it up! thumb.gif

Thanks Albert! I like actually 'making' stuff. Otherwise it doesn't really seem like a 'mod'. rolleyes.gif
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