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Is this a "good psu"? - Page 7

post #61 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowmen View Post


Yeah Rosewill is a bit like Thermaltake, some great or at the very least good units mixed with some PSUs that never should've existed.

 

lol that's how I feel  :)

    
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post #62 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post

Oscilloscope measurements are not accurate unless the scope is set to 20mHz bandwidth and the probe is connected in parallel with a 10uf tantalum and 0.1uf ceramic capacitor. You should also use a shielded probe.

Hello, thanks for the info. Can you help me out on the 10uF tantalum and .1uF ceramic cap? I've never heard of a tantalum and what do you mean ceramic?
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post #63 of 77
post #64 of 77
Thread Starter 

I learn something everyday! Now I finally know what those two components are, I often see them on circut boards i scrap for parts but I never knew what they were, I'll have to rip some off and put them as you showed.
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post #65 of 77
Well SMD components can be almost anything, not just capacitors. And ratings and manufacture differ. You need a 10uf tantalum or electrolytic capacitor and a 0.1uf ceramic capacitor, and both need to be rated for >14V. A different capacitance will skew your ripple results, the wrong type of capacitor will also skew them from filtering the wrong frequencies, and too low a voltage rating will result in charred components. Just buy them off the internet, it's $1 each.

Actually, maybe you shouldn't do this. I'm not sure you have the background and equipment to do it properly, accurately, and safely.
post #66 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post

Well SMD components can be almost anything, not just capacitors. And ratings and manufacture differ. You need a 10uf tantalum or electrolytic capacitor and a 0.1uf ceramic capacitor, and both need to be rated for >14V. A different capacitance will skew your ripple results, the wrong type of capacitor will also skew them from filtering the wrong frequencies, and too low a voltage rating will result in charred components. Just buy them off the internet, it's $1 each.
Actually, maybe you shouldn't do this. I'm not sure you have the background and equipment to do it properly, accurately, and safely.

I may not be the most knowledgable in the electronics field but this is very basic stuff. As for the equipment, yes I have a TekTronix 2235 100MHz oscilloscope (yes i limited bandwidth to 20MHz). Accurately, maybe not so much as I don't have a proper Probe but how much of a difference will it really make. As for the safety, its 12Volts, yes there is 18amps on either rail of my psu but with 12volts not much is going to get into me. I take safety with the utmost care and there is no way I should injure myself or damage my PSU or anything.

In the end I'm not the best but I'm still quite capable of taking some simple measurements of my PSU with my oscilloscope.

EDIT: Oh and for the tantalum and ceramic caps, do they have a polarity or is any orientation fine?
Edited by EpicAMDGamer - 8/2/12 at 5:09am
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post #67 of 77
The shock hazard isn't what I'm concerned about, it's the fire hazard. If you're going through with this, make damn sure not to short anything. Use insulated wire and keep it as short as possible; in addition to helping reduce the risk of accident this will also reduce EMI.

Not having a shielded probe may increase the ripple reading by anywhere from 10mV to 50mV depending on the EM field at your location. You will definitely get a 60Hz oscillation from your power lines; keep the timescale zoomed in so that doesn't skew your results, but the harmonics of it definitely will no matter what. Use the ground from the same PSU connector as you're getting V+ to avoid a ground loop. Turn off any wireless devices and don't use your microwave; the affect from those will be minor, but measurable.

If you live near a high-voltage power line or radio broadcast tower then your results might be pooched no matter what you do. On the upside, you get to see what Whiz Kalifa's whining vocals look like on an oscilloscope.


The 10uf tantalum or electrolytic cap will be polarized. The 0.1uf ceramic cap is not. By the way, there are thru-hole ceramic caps that meet the spec:
https://www.google.com/#q=ceramic+disc+0.1uf&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=cJMaUKOYMqq3iwLes4HgAw&ved=0CFcQ_AUoBQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&fp=75fe84a568f57d69&biw=1920&bih=997





Really, once you get the caps in there your reading should be close enough for government work. Just be careful, is all.
post #68 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by EpicAMDGamer View Post

Your probably right but I can't help but think your exaggerating. Do you really think that its just going to crap out on me one day and send a surge through all of my components? I cant be anywhere near 450watts with my current setup.

That PSU is TERRIBLE, JUNKIE, TRASH.

IT'S CRITICAL THAT YOU REPLACE IT ASAP!

I wouldn't even use the computer if I were you, aslong as you have that...

It's a very trash psu made by dell, and alot of products made by dell fail in a matter of months. Dell is the worst....

Thier inspirion series laptops are trash, I have replaced two hardrives from them within a year after failing to boot.

I recently had a coonix PSU in my desktop pc, and for 5 months of use, my computer kept randomly shutting off due to the poor psu. As soon as I replaced that garbage with a 700 watt corsair GS PSU, the problems stopped.

Here is a link to my thread I had started months ago.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1264493/bad-psu
Edited by BankaiKiller - 8/2/12 at 8:14am
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post #69 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post

The shock hazard isn't what I'm concerned about, it's the fire hazard. If you're going through with this, make damn sure not to short anything. Use insulated wire and keep it as short as possible; in addition to helping reduce the risk of accident this will also reduce EMI.
Not having a shielded probe may increase the ripple reading by anywhere from 10mV to 50mV depending on the EM field at your location. You will definitely get a 60Hz oscillation from your power lines; keep the timescale zoomed in so that doesn't skew your results, but the harmonics of it definitely will no matter what. Use the ground from the same PSU connector as you're getting V+ to avoid a ground loop. Turn off any wireless devices and don't use your microwave; the affect from those will be minor, but measurable.
If you live near a high-voltage power line or radio broadcast tower then your results might be pooched no matter what you do. On the upside, you get to see what Whiz Kalifa's whining vocals look like on an oscilloscope.
The 10uf tantalum or electrolytic cap will be polarized. The 0.1uf ceramic cap is not. By the way, there are thru-hole ceramic caps that meet the spec:
https://www.google.com/#q=ceramic+disc+0.1uf&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=cJMaUKOYMqq3iwLes4HgAw&ved=0CFcQ_AUoBQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&fp=75fe84a568f57d69&biw=1920&bih=997
Really, once you get the caps in there your reading should be close enough for government work. Just be careful, is all.

As for the fire hazard, I can't really imagine anything happening, I use some THICK wire that could easily handle the 12Volt 18Amp output of my PSU (on the 12volt rail). I'll make sure I be careful though.

I'm a bit confused about the 60Hz. If I am taking a reading from my PSU on the 12VDC rail using the appropriate black wire, why is there AC? Should that not be as close to perfect DC as possible? On the crap core2duo psu I didn't see any waves or patterns at all, nor do I see any on online tests of junk PSU's.
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post #70 of 77
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BankaiKiller View Post

That PSU is TERRIBLE, JUNKIE, TRASH.
IT'S CRITICAL THAT YOU REPLACE IT ASAP!
I wouldn't even use the computer if I were you, aslong as you have that...
It's a very trash psu made by dell, and alot of products made by dell fail in a matter of months. Dell is the worst....
Thier inspirion series laptops are trash, I have replaced two hardrives from them within a year after failing to boot.
I recently had a coonix PSU in my desktop pc, and for 5 months of use, my computer kept randomly shutting off due to the poor psu. As soon as I replaced that garbage with a 700 watt corsair GS PSU, the problems stopped.
Here is a link to my thread I had started months ago.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1264493/bad-psu

I (as stated before) understand the severity of the situation with my psu being a total piece of ****. I will be ordering a Rosewill Green 630Watt (continuous, 730watt peak (60 seconds)) PSU in the next 2 weeks.

And the picture of your psu in the topic you linked looks identical to mine the only difference being the wattage.
White Lightning
(16 items)
 
The Blue Bench
(14 items)
 
The Gray Bench
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.5 1.335v ASUS P8Z68-V PRO (Not GEN3) Sapphire 7950 @ 1100/1575 1x 4GB Corsair XMS3 1600MHz @ 1600 8-8-8-22 1T 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
640GB WD Caviar Blue SATAII HItachi DVD Multi SATAII CM Hyper 212 EVO (Push/Pull) Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Acer G245HQABD 23.6" 1080p Dell 1707FP Logitech G110 Coonix COPS-600 600Watt 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Lexa S W/ Modded Blue Acrylic Window Logitech M100 None Sony Headphones W/ Custom Mic 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 3570K @ 4.8 1.52v Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 ATI Radeon HD 4850 512MB 2x 4GB Patriot Viper Extreme 2400 CAS11 1T 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Hitachi 2.5" 60GB SATA None H100 Push Pull Assortment of 80-120MM's 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows XP Home Edition SP3 Dell 1366x768 Generic USB OCZ EliteXStream 800Watt 
CaseMouse
Home Made Test Bench Microsoft Mobile Mouse 3000 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 @ 3.4GHz Asus P5B Deluxe\Wifi-AP S3 Virge PCI (PCIE SLOTS BROKEN) 1x 1GB Hyundai Electronics Generic 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
160GB Seagate Barracuda IDE Stock or DICE Pot with ICE Assortment of 80-120MM's Windows XP Home SP3 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell 1366x768 Generic USB Thermaltake TR2-430 Watt Custom Testbench 
Mouse
Microsoft Mobile Mouse 3000 
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White Lightning
(16 items)
 
The Blue Bench
(14 items)
 
The Gray Bench
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.5 1.335v ASUS P8Z68-V PRO (Not GEN3) Sapphire 7950 @ 1100/1575 1x 4GB Corsair XMS3 1600MHz @ 1600 8-8-8-22 1T 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
640GB WD Caviar Blue SATAII HItachi DVD Multi SATAII CM Hyper 212 EVO (Push/Pull) Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Acer G245HQABD 23.6" 1080p Dell 1707FP Logitech G110 Coonix COPS-600 600Watt 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Lexa S W/ Modded Blue Acrylic Window Logitech M100 None Sony Headphones W/ Custom Mic 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 3570K @ 4.8 1.52v Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 ATI Radeon HD 4850 512MB 2x 4GB Patriot Viper Extreme 2400 CAS11 1T 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Hitachi 2.5" 60GB SATA None H100 Push Pull Assortment of 80-120MM's 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows XP Home Edition SP3 Dell 1366x768 Generic USB OCZ EliteXStream 800Watt 
CaseMouse
Home Made Test Bench Microsoft Mobile Mouse 3000 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 @ 3.4GHz Asus P5B Deluxe\Wifi-AP S3 Virge PCI (PCIE SLOTS BROKEN) 1x 1GB Hyundai Electronics Generic 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
160GB Seagate Barracuda IDE Stock or DICE Pot with ICE Assortment of 80-120MM's Windows XP Home SP3 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell 1366x768 Generic USB Thermaltake TR2-430 Watt Custom Testbench 
Mouse
Microsoft Mobile Mouse 3000 
  hide details  
Reply
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