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YLOD PS3 FIX - Page 2

post #11 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdoublejj View Post

well if you do it right it doesn't need doing ever again that means other mods to go along with the reflow.
Maybe if you water cool it or cutting a hole in the bottom and attaching an extra 120mm fan. Though solder joint could have just became to weak or just unreliable without reballing. The only true fix would be to reball with a better type of solder.
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post #12 of 20
I baked a buddies PS3 once (well, three times) and it last for about 3 months or so. He comes back with a YLOD so I baked it again. About 3 months more go by or so and he's back again with a YLOD wants another bake. So I did. His PS3 didn't survive the 3rd bake.

I never used Noclean flux on my buddies board. Used it on my GTX 280 that's been baked and in the ladies rig and used it on a PS3 that was given to me, baked, and sold to a friend who uses it daily.
    
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post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by DzillaXx View Post

Maybe if you water cool it or cutting a hole in the bottom and attaching an extra 120mm fan. Though solder joint could have just became to weak or just unreliable without reballing. The only true fix would be to reball with a better type of solder.

It's unfortunate that these consoles were designed like this (same goes for the Xbox 360) where the solder cracks like that from the overbearing heat. Lead-free solder is to blame though even normal leaded solder would corrode and flake over time from temperatures approaching 100C during normal usage. The PS3 had a better heatsink than the Xbox 360 (fat versions) and so this was probably why it was a lot less common than the RROD. Then again it makes me wonder why graphics cards which have BGA's and can reach similar temperatures don't run into these problems.

At this point reballing would be the best solution for what should be the longest-lasting fix (it may be few more years before the solder flakes and cracks again and the reballing would have to be done again). Unfortunately that can only be done at special shops since a balling machine is required to place every solder ball in the correct spot before melting them to bond the CPU/GPU with the motherboard.
post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoomThruPoom View Post

I baked a buddies PS3 once (well, three times) and it last for about 3 months or so. He comes back with a YLOD so I baked it again. About 3 months more go by or so and he's back again with a YLOD wants another bake. So I did. His PS3 didn't survive the 3rd bake.
I never used Noclean flux on my buddies board. Used it on my GTX 280 that's been baked and in the ladies rig and used it on a PS3 that was given to me, baked, and sold to a friend who uses it daily.

No clean flux works wonders. My Ghetto modded 360 is still kicking after using it. A must for reflowing.
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post #15 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by IvantheDugtrio View Post

It's unfortunate that these consoles were designed like this (same goes for the Xbox 360) where the solder cracks like that from the overbearing heat. Lead-free solder is to blame though even normal leaded solder would corrode and flake over time from temperatures approaching 100C during normal usage. The PS3 had a better heatsink than the Xbox 360 (fat versions) and so this was probably why it was a lot less common than the RROD. Then again it makes me wonder why graphics cards which have BGA's and can reach similar temperatures don't run into these problems.
At this point reballing would be the best solution for what should be the longest-lasting fix (it may be few more years before the solder flakes and cracks again and the reballing would have to be done again). Unfortunately that can only be done at special shops since a balling machine is required to place every solder ball in the correct spot before melting them to bond the CPU/GPU with the motherboard.

This.

Why it's usually just better to get a new one if you don't want to try and reflow yourself.

Reballing=Best repair

Reflow with flux=Will work, how long???

Reflow without flux = only buying time
    
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post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoomThruPoom View Post

You can reflow the board yourself in the oven if your brave.
I've done this. There's not too much to it.
The PS3 mobo bakes just like a video card. thumb.gif
Make sure to get some No Clean flux and dab a few drops behind the CPU/GPU and memory chips before baking.

not quite is is gonna be much morel likely to warp if not properly supported.

reflwoing with flux can last a long if done right and followed up with simple proper modifications.
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post #17 of 20
Tin foils balls on a cookie sheet?? Never had warpage.

Never baked longer than 10 minutes though.
    
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post #18 of 20
same hear i keep it at around 7min, the bigger the pcb the more the warping. yeah the tin balls work you would need some in the center they would all need to be as close to the same size as possible and the cookie sheet completely flat/level.

I have since upgraded, leveled up to an SMD station with home made heat diffusers and a griddle (pre heater).
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post #19 of 20
ive baked a xbox 360 and a gtx 470 before. ive been 2 out of 2 with both and both have been working great since
post #20 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by That Guy View Post

Cooling is not the issue, it's the lead free solder that Sony uses to attached the CPU and GPU to the mainboard. It can't handle the heat-cycling as well as lead solder.

This. Plus the original 60GB power supplies are too hot. They contribute to a too hot console leading the motherboard to bend inteinsively and the lead to eventually crack.
    
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