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parts list for first loop

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
After reading a while and bugging you with questions I came up with a list of parts for my loop (and yet more questions biggrin.gif). This is the first time I'm doing this so please keep that in mind.

Rough plan:

The pump top will get 90° fittings, the rest will be straight.

List of parts:


You'll notice I'm going overboard on the rad but I plan to add 1 or 2 GPUs in the next step. There are no suitable blocks for one of my current cards so I'll start with a CPU loop to get things up and running first. When I upgrade the cards, I'll put the new ones under water.
Some parts are on backorder apparently but I don't really want to rush anything at this point.

A few Questions remain at this point:
Any big mistakes?
Is distilled + silver kill coil appropriate as coolant?
Is the tubing size appropriate? (I really have no clue here)
are the fittings too big for the CPU block? (maybe add some 45° fittings)
am I going overboard with the monitoring?
did i forget anything else?

All of the stuff is from Aquatuning to keep things simple
   
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post #2 of 11
Have you done any calculations of heat generated, flow rates required, head losses. etc?

Seems to me like way to much monitoring, just a lot of bling.
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post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Actually no, I haven't done calculations on flow and heat. redface.gif Can you point me someplace where I can learn how to? I can't really find it in the essential threads list.

I'd gladly cut down on the monitoring and spend the money someplace else if I'd know what is irrelevant.
  • Coolant temp sounds important. The sensor is cheap anyway but the separate LCD displays for them look flat out ugly
  • Flow rate is probably bling but will confirm that the pump's alive and working normally
  • Fill height is surely Bling, it just comes with the pump top. There's a top without the feature, not that much cheaper though.
  • Aquaero LT ties the whole thing together. Can't really make use of the temp sensor without it unless my MB grew an external temp header overnight or the displays looked pretty all of a sudden rolleyes.gif
   
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post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Well I've found a spreadsheet for estimations on MartinsLiquidLab
What does [MLL] and [SL] behind some of the components mean?

The following is probably close in terms of pressure drop

1x Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 LT
2x Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 GTX480 (I'd probably also go for Watercool here later)
1x Laing D5 (P5) <- probably means 100%
1x XSPC RX360
7ft of tubing (size didn't really matter much)
barbs and res and stuff

Without the GPU blocks flow rate was ~1.7GPM so lots of headroom.
With the 2 GPU blocks flow rate was as follows
serial: ~1GPM
parallel: ~1.4GPM
The pump already at 100% so I can't compensate for any error margin.

A Swiftech MCP-35X PWM 60-100% ended up with:
serial: ~1.25GPM
parallel: ~1.73GPM
This one has a little headroom, after that there seem to be only dual pumps.

As for thermal performance. What values would you enter for heat dissipation on a i7 2600K @ 4.9Ghz, 1.52V and a (pretty much) overclocked GTX6xx card ? I can't find any estimates there.
   
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post #5 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by mosi View Post

Well I've found a spreadsheet for estimations on MartinsLiquidLab
What does [MLL] and [SL] behind some of the components mean?
The following is probably close in terms of pressure drop
1x Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 LT
2x Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 GTX480 (I'd probably also go for Watercool here later)
1x Laing D5 (P5) <- probably means 100%
1x XSPC RX360
7ft of tubing (size didn't really matter much)
barbs and res and stuff
Without the GPU blocks flow rate was ~1.7GPM so lots of headroom.
With the 2 GPU blocks flow rate was as follows
serial: ~1GPM
parallel: ~1.4GPM
The pump already at 100% so I can't compensate for any error margin.
A Swiftech MCP-35X PWM 60-100% ended up with:
serial: ~1.25GPM
parallel: ~1.73GPM
This one has a little headroom, after that there seem to be only dual pumps.
As for thermal performance. What values would you enter for heat dissipation on a i7 2600K @ 4.9Ghz, 1.52V and a (pretty much) overclocked GTX6xx card ? I can't find any estimates there.

Probably they mean tested by Martin's Liquid Lab and tested by Skinnee Labs
post #6 of 11
Well a stock 2600k is 95W TDP, so to be safe maybe add 10W (arbitrary number, don't know if it'll be that high) and as for your card since we don't know what specific 600 series it'll be, I assumed a 680 which is 195W which total about 310W to dissipate. Normally the rule of thumb is per 120mm of rad space = 100-150Watts (I've read 100 and 150 on different sites) so either way I think that a single 360 rad should be enough. I was looking though and you don't have any fans listed, you definitely want to add fans to the rad. From what I've been looking at recently (been thinking about changing the fans on my radiators) your best bet is Scythe Gentle Typhoons, they offer the best value of CFM to noise. Your loop looks fine, you've definitely done your homework, but I have to agree that adding the sensors for monitoring are not really all that important (most people I know don't really use them).

Hope this helps.
post #7 of 11
switch out the block for the XSPC raystorm block. It sill most likely save you a degree or two.
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post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomTaco View Post

Well a stock 2600k is 95W TDP, so to be safe maybe add 10W (arbitrary number, don't know if it'll be that high) and as for your card since we don't know what specific 600 series it'll be, I assumed a 680 which is 195W which total about 310W to dissipate. Normally the rule of thumb is per 120mm of rad space = 100-150Watts (I've read 100 and 150 on different sites) so either way I think that a single 360 rad should be enough. I was looking though and you don't have any fans listed, you definitely want to add fans to the rad. From what I've been looking at recently (been thinking about changing the fans on my radiators) your best bet is Scythe Gentle Typhoons, they offer the best value of CFM to noise. Your loop looks fine, you've definitely done your homework, but I have to agree that adding the sensors for monitoring are not really all that important (most people I know don't really use them).
Hope this helps.

They're the best performing in terms of CFM/Noise ratio. But the best value for the money lies with Yate Loons but they're not as great.
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post #9 of 11
Apologies you're right, that's what I meant tongue.gif. But like Krusher33 is basically saying, if the Gentle Typhoons are more than you'd like to spend, go for the Yate Loons.
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomTaco View Post

Well a stock 2600k is 95W TDP, so to be safe maybe add 10W (arbitrary number, don't know if it'll be that high) and as for your card since we don't know what specific 600 series it'll be, I assumed a 680 which is 195W which total about 310W to dissipate. Normally the rule of thumb is per 120mm of rad space = 100-150Watts (I've read 100 and 150 on different sites) so either way I think that a single 360 rad should be enough. I was looking though and you don't have any fans listed, you definitely want to add fans to the rad. From what I've been looking at recently (been thinking about changing the fans on my radiators) your best bet is Scythe Gentle Typhoons, they offer the best value of CFM to noise. Your loop looks fine, you've definitely done your homework, but I have to agree that adding the sensors for monitoring are not really all that important (most people I know don't really use them).
Hope this helps.
Anything helps and is highly appreciated thumb.gif
Is ~105W TDP for the CPU really enough with all that overclocking and overvolting? Anyway, chances are high I end up with SLI cards again so I doubled your figure for the GPU and entered 500W into martins spreadsheet. Judging from the results one RX360 isn't enough, one additional RX120 is barely enough and a second RX360 is definitely enough. There's space in front of the case for another 240 rad so I guess that'd work out with one UT60 360 for the CPU + maybe 1 additional GPU and another UT60 240 for the second GPU.

You're right I didn't list fans. I have 3 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 already but would order more if need be, they're truly great fans. My current purple fans are mostly just for the color theme. rolleyes.gif
Thanks for the kind words btw smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjj226 Angel View Post

switch out the block for the XSPC raystorm block. It sill most likely save you a degree or two.
Actually the Raystorm copper was #2 on my list because I thought the HK 3.0 (the one at the end of the list in my initial post, not the LT) fared better in benchmarks. Did I miss something?

I'm kinda wondering about the estimated flow rate at this point. Martin stated that 1GPM is a good ballpark figure to go for and I'd like to plan with some headroom. There are loads of Heatsinks and whatnot for the MCP35X in shops but not the pump itself. What to do?
   
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