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[Sponsored] Project Rose - A Car-puter - In Progress - Cree LED Goodness - Page 15

post #141 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepejovi View Post

The "Sponsored" tab is so depressing...

 

I'm okay with the idea of you sponsoring me on this ;)

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CHILZ - Lan Rig
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CADILLAC - HTPC
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post #142 of 398
Looks really interesting +rep and subb'd!

The only problem I see is that you get a flat if you have to still use the car for work/transport? That would really suck tongue.gif

EDIT: :Doh: can't rep I ALWAYS do that.. You should be able to rep mods/admins or whatever you guys get called here. It's different most places tongue.gif

EDIT2: Nice car btw, I wish I could afford something like that.. It'd need to be Auto though ew manual tongue.gif
Edited by Matt-Matt - 8/31/12 at 7:13am
 
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post #143 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:

 

Originally Posted by Matt-Matt View Post

Looks really interesting +rep and subb'd!

The only problem I see is that you get a flat if you have to still use the car for work/transport? That would really suck tongue.gif

EDIT: :Doh: can't rep I ALWAYS do that.. You should be able to rep mods/admins or whatever you guys get called here. It's different most places tongue.gif

EDIT2: Nice car btw, I wish I could afford something like that.. It'd need to be Auto though ew manual tongue.gif
 

We staff don't need a number, but the virtual rep is appreciated :D

 

And I don't understand your question completely, if you are asking what would happen if I get a flat, then I didn't make it completely clear.

 

What I did was removed the crappy little donut tire that Honda provides as a spare in the spare tire well and used that space for my amplifier, capacitor, hydraulic jack, and battery charger.  I then purchased a cheap-brand full-size winter tire and put it on a rim as a full-size spare tire.

 

You will see when I take more pictures tonight, but the spare tire lays flat at the front of the trunk and the sub fits just perfectly at the back with 4" of clearance between the box and the trunk itself.  This means about 6" between the cone and the trunk which is pretty ideal for a sub setup from my testing.  The spare tire holds the sub-box in place perfectly so it doesn't move and I've done ahead and tightened all the parts on the trunk so there is no rattling at all.

 

On the list of things to do is using some Dyna-mat or equivalent material to cover the entire trunk.  Any recommendations on alternatives as Dyna-mat is super overpriced for what it actually is?

 

And thanks, I love this car and I would never go back to Automatic, not even semi-auto with paddle shifting.

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CANARY - Main Rig
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CADILLAC - HTPC
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Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
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CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
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post #144 of 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

We staff don't need a number, but the virtual rep is appreciated biggrin.gif

And I don't understand your question completely, if you are asking what would happen if I get a flat, then I didn't make it completely clear.

What I did was removed the crappy little donut tire that Honda provides as a spare in the spare tire well and used that space for my amplifier, capacitor, hydraulic jack, and battery charger.  I then purchased a cheap-brand full-size winter tire and put it on a rim as a full-size spare tire.

You will see when I take more pictures tonight, but the spare tire lays flat at the front of the trunk and the sub fits just perfectly at the back with 4" of clearance between the box and the trunk itself.  This means about 6" between the cone and the trunk which is pretty ideal for a sub setup from my testing.  The spare tire holds the sub-box in place perfectly so it doesn't move and I've done ahead and tightened all the parts on the trunk so there is no rattling at all.

On the list of things to do is using some Dyna-mat or equivalent material to cover the entire trunk.  Any recommendations on alternatives as Dyna-mat is super overpriced for what it actually is?

And thanks, I love this car and I would never go back to Automatic, not even semi-auto with paddle shifting.

I'd love a flappy padde gear box! redface.gif
As for the tire, that's a really good idea! Again virtual rep rolleyes.gif

I'm really tired, so that's probably why I didn't understand about the tire. etc had a good day and found that I can get into Uni.. So I'm kinda excited and stuff lol.

As for the Dyna-Mat.. Hmm, I've seen other alternatives in Australia. It's just a rubber mat that can be cut to size yes? Because I know most auto stores would have an equivalent, we do here in Australia because I helped dad cut it for the CRV one day.

As stupid as it sounds, you pay for what you get. I know it sound stupid but where money is involved (like a fair bit - like this) I try not to cheap out because it can make it look like better quality and/or not break as easily. But in this case a rubber mat can't really "Break" tongue.gif

EDIT: That makes no sense, stupid tired Matt grr,
I guess what I'm trying to say if you're going to do something do it properly thumb.gif
Edited by Matt-Matt - 8/31/12 at 7:29am
 
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
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post #145 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt-Matt View Post

I'd love a flappy padde gear box! redface.gif
As for the tire, that's a really good idea! Again virtual rep rolleyes.gif

I'm really tired, so that's probably why I didn't understand about the tire. etc had a good day and found that I can get into Uni.. So I'm kinda excited and stuff lol.

As for the Dyna-Mat.. Hmm, I've seen other alternatives in Australia. It's just a rubber mat that can be cut to size yes? Because I know most auto stores would have an equivalent, we do here in Australia because I helped dad cut it for the CRV one day.

As stupid as it sounds, you pay for what you get. I know it sound stupid but where money is involved (like a fair bit - like this) I try not to cheap out because it can make it look like better quality and/or not break as easily. But in this case a rubber mat can't really "Break" tongue.gif

 

Well congrats on getting in to university, what do you plan to take?

 

And could you try and find out what he used, that would be great.  And normally I'm okay with paying a little more for parts, but for stuff like electrical cable, brackets, this mat stuff, cables in general, I find the highest price are not always the best. Look at monster cables for example, I'd rather pay $5 for a cable plus some shipping on monoprice.com and wait a couple weeks then pay $50+ on Monster cable that is no where near the same build quality.

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CHILZ - Lan Rig
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CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
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120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
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post #146 of 398
Thread Starter 

Some more teaser pics I took over my lunch break.

 

The first picture shows my choice location for the front tweeters.  I could have used the factory location in that far corner of the dash by the corner of the windshield, but I opted no to.  I much preferred having the tweeters close to their full-size counter-parts.  This also allowed me to hide the crossover box in the door rather then find a hiding place under the dash.

 

As you can see from the pictures, I chose to go the route of a hidden amplifier and a easily removal sub.  I hate re-wiring stuff because I am so meticulous when I do that I don't want to re-do it.  I had to come up with a way to remove the sub easily though for the winter months, or for camping trips where I need that extra trunk space for tents, coolers, sleeping bags, etc.

 

 

Axipher's Method (Click to show)

So I decided to massacre an old 2-wire (no ground conductor) extension cord to be my means of powering the sub.

 
The flat you see in the pictures that covers the spare tire well attaches via 2 small plastic push plugs near the back seat.  I removed both of these plugs.  I ran the extension cord through one of these holes to the spare tire well below.
 
The other hole was used as a ground since the plastic plugs held the fabric flap in to the metal frame.  I just took a wire brush to the metal surrounding the hole, used a nut, bolt, washers, lock washers, star washer, and en eye-loop on the ground wire to connect it.  Then I sealed up the entire thing with some liquid electrical tape and tested it.  Less than 0.1 ohms between the ground terminal on the amp itself and the negative post of the battery in the engine compartment, good enough.

 

 

 

Front Tweeter location:

 

 

 

Sub and spare-tire only in the trunk (normally I have a bunch of tools and auto supplies)

 

 

 

Just the spare tire and a mysterious extension cord (but where's the amp and how is the sub connected)

 

 

 

Spare-tire well re-organized temporarily until I build a insert out of plywood to mount everything to

 

 

 

Just another shot of the spare tire well

 

 

 

Sub connection (super easy removal was a key feature)

 

 

 

That's what the extension cord was for

 

 

 

Hides nicely behind the sub box

 

 

 

Normally it's actually hidden, but just showing where it runs

 

 

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(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
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250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
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Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
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Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
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Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
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FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
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120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
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2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
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Q6600 Acer X1800 ATI 5670 2 GB Kingston 
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2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
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CHILZ - Lan Rig
(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
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250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
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2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
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2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
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post #147 of 398
I have this image of your car being discernible from a mile away from all the sound. This is crazy.
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post #148 of 398
I love the socket plug-in idea! this guy, I'm telling ya, this guy.
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post #149 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SniperTeamTango View Post

I have this image of your car being discernible from a mile away from all the sound. This is crazy.

 

Thanks man, and what do you think about me replacing that red sub cover with Acrylic, putting EL-Wire around the box, and line the circle of the woofer itself?

 

Also I'll be re-carpeting the box itself since it's a little beat up.  I've had this same sub and box since 2005...  Well that's a lie, the sub was replaced in 2007 under warranty, but still.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by .theMetal View Post

I love the socket plug-in idea! this guy, I'm telling ya, this guy.
 

Thanks man, I may not be the best modder, but I have ideas galore.  I have piles of sketch pads with ideas for everything.  Stay tuned on my Project Borris build log as well.  I already hinted in that about the new desk I'll be building.  And by new desk, I mean a 4-station LAN counter :D

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post #150 of 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

Thanks man, and what do you think about me replacing that red sub cover with Acrylic, putting EL-Wire around the box, and line the circle of the woofer itself?

Also I'll be re-carpeting the box itself since it's a little beat up.  I've had this same sub and box since 2005...  Well that's a lie, the sub was replaced in 2007 under warranty, but still.

If its MDF now, I think it'd be hard to get strong enough acrylic. Also the sound would not be the same. It'd be cool, but audio would be different and it'd be expensive.

I'd set up EL wire in the back around it, so that when it goes it lights up. Sound activated and all that.
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