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post #241 of 398
for what? i think you can use a splitter to make the start button (i dont know if you have one, but if its keys disregard) activate the engine+the pc. also im guessing you will use a pico psu? it looks like its impossible to fit a normal psu in that box.
     
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post #242 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3930K View Post

So are you doing WC or not?

 

Leaning more towards a no.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by barkinos98 View Post

for what? i think you can use a splitter to make the start button (i dont know if you have one, but if its keys disregard) activate the engine+the pc. also im guessing you will use a pico psu? it looks like its impossible to fit a normal psu in that box.

 

I'm working on the schematic diagram right now for the start of the computer.  Sadly it's not as easy as just starting it with the engine.  I need to have some delays in there to account for the reduced voltage during engine cranking, as well as a delay for the amp turn on to prevent "thumping" when windows initializes the sound card.

 

The switches will be for the following as it stands:

  • Master power for the entire system
  • Bypass switch when car is turned off
  • Switch in trunk to turn on rear LCD
  • Switches in rear to control speaker amp and sub-woofer amp (with delay circuit on the remote turn-on line)
  • Switch to control power for lights (control will still be through computer as well)
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post #243 of 398
But... but...
post #244 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3930K View Post

But... but...

 

Blame Canadian winters and Canadian roads...

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250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
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Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
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FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
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post #245 of 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

Blame Canadian winters and Canadian roads...

come to turkey. it is impossible to find cars with rimse over 19". our old CLS had 275/35/R19 rear tires, we had to change the tires 4 times in 2 years. winters probably not as arse-freezing as canada, but it can get pretty cold here too.
     
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post #246 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barkinos98 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

Blame Canadian winters and Canadian roads...

come to turkey. it is impossible to find cars with rimse over 19". our old CLS had 275/35/R19 rear tires, we had to change the tires 4 times in 2 years. winters probably not as arse-freezing as canada, but it can get pretty cold here too.

 

I'm happy with my 205/60R16's, currently contemplating some new rims with 225/50R17's, not sure if I want to risk losing that much rubber though considering how often I drive on non-paved roads.

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post #247 of 398
Thread Starter 

Okay, here's the rough first attempt at a schematic for the computer power control, this will probably get modified and will be converted to CAD, I just find it much easier working on paper for quick things like this.

 

For the following sequence of events, assume the "Master" switch is closed and the "Bypass" is left open.  The bypass might not work in it's current location and I'll need to figure something else out.  It depends how reliable the 12 V of the Ignition wire is.  If it stays at 12 V I'll be fine, but if it drops to 6 V while the engine is cranking, then I'll have to re-think the bypass switch implementation to avoid accident faults.

 

Sequence of events:

  1. Key is turned and car enters start routine
  2. IGNITION signal of 12 V energizes CR1 and TR1TR1 starts counting to 10 seconds
  3. TR1 contact before Bypass opens instantly, disconnecting the AUX Battery and the rest of the control circuit from the main battery
  4. Engine begins to crank and MAIN Battery drops to ~6-8 V while AUX Battery and rest of circuit stays at ~12 V
  5. 12 V of power passed to the M4 PSU battery terminal
  6. 12 V IGNITION signal applied to the M4 PSU ignition terminal, it starts counting to 5 seconds
  7. 12 V is applied to TR2 and it starts counting to 30 seconds
  8. TR2 contact opens up cutting the REMOTE signal to the amplifiers, preventing a thump
  9. 5 seconds after key is initially turned, the M4 PSU sends a power on signal to the motherboard, computer turns on
  10. 10 seconds after key is initially turned, TR1 contact before Bypass switch closes re-connecting AUX Battery and rest of control circuit to MAIN Battery
  11. Computer is in process of booting up
  12. 30 seconds after key is initially turned, TR2 contact closes sending 12 V to the REMOTE input in the amplifiers, by this time, the computer should be started.  This 30 second delay will be adjusted once I optimize the OS for super fast booting, it just needs to be enough to get past the OS loading the sound driver
  13. Amplifiers turn on along with speakers

 

Shut-down sequence:

  1. Key is turned and removed
  2. IGNITION signal is lost
  3. If Bypass switch is open, then CR1 and TR1 de-energize
  4. M4 PSU loses the IGNITION signal
  5. REMOTE signal is lost, amplifiers turn off to prevent thumping during shut-down
  6. 5 seconds after IGNITION singal is lost, M4 PSU sends power off signal to computer, computer starts either shut-down or hibernate
  7. 65 seconds after IGNITION signal is lost, M4 PSU cuts the power to the computer

 

 

Rough drawing:

 

 

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CHILZ - Lan Rig
(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Razer Death Adder 3.5G Staples Gel Cushion Asus Xonar DG + Senn. PC333D 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 Acer X1800 ATI 5670 2 GB Kingston 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Acer Media 220 W SFF Acer X1800 Acer Optical 
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The TV cabinet Denon 2808 7.1 AVR + Dahlquist 350W 8" Sub + Kl... 
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post #248 of 398
Did you pick out an interface for the puter yet? Ya should look at one of those Lenovo 5902's. I have one for the bedroom HTPC and it's so easy to use that my 7yr old can handle it. It'd make for good support to a touchscreen.
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post #249 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Did you pick out an interface for the puter yet? Ya should look at one of those Lenovo 5902's. I have one for the bedroom HTPC and it's so easy to use that my 7yr old can handle it. It'd make for good support to a touchscreen.

 

Not really, original plan was have a keyboard and mouse only for trouble-shooting.  I'm looking for a top-notch touch-UI + OS to use that has a really good keyboard.

CHILZ - Lan Rig
(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
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CADILLAC - HTPC
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Razer Death Adder 3.5G Staples Gel Cushion Asus Xonar DG + Senn. PC333D 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 Acer X1800 ATI 5670 2 GB Kingston 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Acer Media 220 W SFF Acer X1800 Acer Optical 
Mouse PadAudio
The TV cabinet Denon 2808 7.1 AVR + Dahlquist 350W 8" Sub + Kl... 
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CHILZ - Lan Rig
(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

Ouch, well good luck with fixing it.  That's probably the one thing I love about some of the older cars I had, actual metal parts in the engine all around, even the timing chain tensioner.

It's a 1984. Like all things German, MB decided to use plastic guides in the M117. UGHHH.
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