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post #251 of 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

Not really, original plan was have a keyboard and mouse only for trouble-shooting.  I'm looking for a top-notch touch-UI + OS to use that has a really good keyboard.


Yea, I figured you'd be all over a touch OS. Still, a 5902 in the glove box will be handy given it's backlit and it's diminutive size.

Btw, check this out.

http://blogs.msdn.com/b/b8/archive/2012/07/17/designing-the-windows-8-touch-keyboard.aspx
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post #252 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VaiFanatic View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

Ouch, well good luck with fixing it.  That's probably the one thing I love about some of the older cars I had, actual metal parts in the engine all around, even the timing chain tensioner.

It's a 1984. Like all things German, MB decided to use plastic guides in the M117. UGHHH.

 

Well that sucks then :(

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

Not really, original plan was have a keyboard and mouse only for trouble-shooting.  I'm looking for a top-notch touch-UI + OS to use that has a really good keyboard.


Yea, I figured you'd be all over a touch OS. Still, a 5902 in the glove box will be handy given it's backlit and it's diminutive size.

Btw, check this out.

http://blogs.msdn.com/b/b8/archive/2012/07/17/designing-the-windows-8-touch-keyboard.aspx

 

Wow, thanks for the link, Windows 8 just popped up as a viable option for this Car-puter.

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post #253 of 398
I'll check the damage tonight. Just got some new tools to help me pull the heads (bolts are on tighter than anything I've ever encountered).

Then when it's running again, in goes the white leather, and LED interior lighting! thumb.gif
post #254 of 398
Axipher....Your timer delay system looks good at the moment. A word of caution though is that you might be over thinking your delays a bit. This really comes down to whether or not you have decided to keep your head unit or not. If the head unit and basically everything is going to be removed, meaning all entertainment will come from the carpc then yes you have a need to do something like your system.

My suggestions though are dependent on what your final plan is.

1. You keep your head unit for radio controls etc..

If this is the case feed your sound from your car pc back to the head unit and then go from the head unit to the amps. This means you just have to switch sources on the head unit to switch from radio to car pc. It also means you can have the pc running and still have the radio going. Now we can talk about relays and turning things off and on with switches and whatnot but eliminate the timer business.

2. You remove the head unit and go completely to the pc for your entertainment and etc...

In this case there is a better choice IMO. Grab something like a Fusion brain control center. Pair that with an Arduino and a script that runs on startup and there is your delay you need to prevent thump turn ons. Or you can even use something like this.

In the end the KISS statement works best here. By the way some of the pico power supplies at Mp3car have shutdown timers built in along with sending a shutdown signal to the pc.

As far as Windows 8 goes for a CarPC....I wouldn't think to hard about it. Many application won't run at the low resolutions of screens that work in cars. I think the minimum is 1280*720 for the keyboard to work. I'm still giving it a go with mine but I haven't been to happy with it.

Oh good luck and MORE SKIPPY!! biggrin.gif
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post #255 of 398

Why not instead of having a separate battery, just get a big ass cap?

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post #256 of 398
Why not just run a preamp and feed the puter into that? Who needs a radio? Check out the audiocontrol 3.2, has two input channels, you get your relays from it etc etc.
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post #257 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylepdalton View Post

Axipher....Your timer delay system looks good at the moment. A word of caution though is that you might be over thinking your delays a bit. This really comes down to whether or not you have decided to keep your head unit or not. If the head unit and basically everything is going to be removed, meaning all entertainment will come from the carpc then yes you have a need to do something like your system.

My suggestions though are dependent on what your final plan is.

1. You keep your head unit for radio controls etc..

If this is the case feed your sound from your car pc back to the head unit and then go from the head unit to the amps. This means you just have to switch sources on the head unit to switch from radio to car pc. It also means you can have the pc running and still have the radio going. Now we can talk about relays and turning things off and on with switches and whatnot but eliminate the timer business.

2. You remove the head unit and go completely to the pc for your entertainment and etc...

In this case there is a better choice IMO. Grab something like a Fusion brain control center. Pair that with an Arduino and a script that runs on startup and there is your delay you need to prevent thump turn ons. Or you can even use something like this.

In the end the KISS statement works best here. By the way some of the pico power supplies at Mp3car have shutdown timers built in along with sending a shutdown signal to the pc.

As far as Windows 8 goes for a CarPC....I wouldn't think to hard about it. Many application won't run at the low resolutions of screens that work in cars. I think the minimum is 1280*720 for the keyboard to work. I'm still giving it a go with mine but I haven't been to happy with it.

Oh good luck and MORE SKIPPY!! biggrin.gif

 

I am removing the head unit completely and would like to put in an optical drive in the current head unit's location.

 

The M$ PSU I'm reference is a Pico PSU that has the built-in shut-down timer.  the problem is that it doesn't cut power to the remote line to the amp on shut-down, it only has a timer for the start-up that prevents thump.

 

This is why I've used the second timer, to provide full anti-thump in both start-up and shut-down.

 

As for the first timer, the reason for that is to provide the entire control circuit as well as the M4 PSU a constant 12-14 V of power.  After working in the electrical industry for so long, I know that operating a device near it's limits can reduce it's life. In this case that would be operating the M4 PSU at as low as 6 V when the car's engine is cranking.  That's why I chose the Auxillary battery setup.

 

I'll have to take a look at both those links you posted, thanks.

 

And no Skippy, it was pouring rain and started hailing last night so I didn't go out and do any work.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nvidiaftw12 View Post

Why not instead of having a separate battery, just get a big ass cap?

 

All a giant cap is in this case is a mini battery that can charge up really fast, but discharges really fast.

 

When people add a second battery to their audio systems, it negates the need for a cap completely if done properly.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Why not just run a preamp and feed the puter into that? Who needs a radio? Check out the audiocontrol 3.2, has two input channels, you get your relays from it etc etc.

 

What would the preamp be for?  Currently I'm going to be running RCA direct from the computer to the two amps, the 1-channel sub-woofer amplifier, and the 4-channel speaker amp.

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Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
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post #258 of 398
Can you get high volt outputs out of the puter to feed the amps?
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post #259 of 398
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Can you get high volt outputs out of the puter to feed the amps?

 

No, just 1/8" or RCA outputs.  There are no sound cards that I know of with actual speaker outputs.  I wouldn't want to rely on a sound card anyway for the high-level output which is why I've decided to go RCA to the amps.

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CHILZ - Lan Rig
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CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
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Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
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120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
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2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
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Razer Death Adder 3.5G Staples Gel Cushion Asus Xonar DG + Senn. PC333D 
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Q6600 Acer X1800 ATI 5670 2 GB Kingston 
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2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
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post #260 of 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

No, just 1/8" or RCA outputs.  There are no sound cards that I know of with actual speaker outputs.  I wouldn't want to rely on a sound card anyway for the high-level output which is why I've decided to go RCA to the amps.


You need a preamp to amp the RCA out's to 4v or higher if you want loud loud stuff going to the amps. The three.2 is bad ass it has a master volume knob, key EQ frequencies, built-in Epicenter like Para-bass control, 24dB/oct LR crossover and most importantly it's got a honking big Input Gain Control where it can feed upto 13v outputs to the amps input.
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