Originally Posted by Kylepdalton
Axipher....Your timer delay system looks good at the moment. A word of caution though is that you might be over thinking your delays a bit. This really comes down to whether or not you have decided to keep your head unit or not. If the head unit and basically everything is going to be removed, meaning all entertainment will come from the carpc then yes you have a need to do something like your system.
My suggestions though are dependent on what your final plan is.
1. You keep your head unit for radio controls etc..
If this is the case feed your sound from your car pc back to the head unit and then go from the head unit to the amps. This means you just have to switch sources on the head unit to switch from radio to car pc. It also means you can have the pc running and still have the radio going. Now we can talk about relays and turning things off and on with switches and whatnot but eliminate the timer business.
2. You remove the head unit and go completely to the pc for your entertainment and etc...
In this case there is a better choice IMO. Grab something like a Fusion brain control center
. Pair that with an Arduino and a script that runs on startup and there is your delay you need to prevent thump turn ons. Or you can even use something like this
In the end the KISS statement works best here. By the way some of the pico power supplies at Mp3car have shutdown timers built in along with sending a shutdown signal to the pc.
As far as Windows 8 goes for a CarPC....I wouldn't think to hard about it. Many application won't run at the low resolutions of screens that work in cars. I think the minimum is 1280*720 for the keyboard to work. I'm still giving it a go with mine but I haven't been to happy with it.
Oh good luck and MORE SKIPPY!!
I am removing the head unit completely and would like to put in an optical drive in the current head unit's location.
The M$ PSU I'm reference is a Pico PSU that has the built-in shut-down timer. the problem is that it doesn't cut power to the remote line to the amp on shut-down, it only has a timer for the start-up that prevents thump.
This is why I've used the second timer, to provide full anti-thump in both start-up and shut-down.
As for the first timer, the reason for that is to provide the entire control circuit as well as the M4 PSU a constant 12-14 V of power. After working in the electrical industry for so long, I know that operating a device near it's limits can reduce it's life. In this case that would be operating the M4 PSU at as low as 6 V when the car's engine is cranking. That's why I chose the Auxillary battery setup.
I'll have to take a look at both those links you posted, thanks.
And no Skippy, it was pouring rain and started hailing last night so I didn't go out and do any work.
Originally Posted by nvidiaftw12
Why not instead of having a separate battery, just get a big ass cap?
All a giant cap is in this case is a mini battery that can charge up really fast, but discharges really fast.
When people add a second battery to their audio systems, it negates the need for a cap completely if done properly.
Originally Posted by tsm106
Why not just run a preamp and feed the puter into that? Who needs a radio? Check out the audiocontrol 3.2, has two input channels, you get your relays from it etc etc.
What would the preamp be for? Currently I'm going to be running RCA direct from the computer to the two amps, the 1-channel sub-woofer amplifier, and the 4-channel speaker amp.