Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] Pandamonium (TH10 w/Ped, RIVE w/3930K, Tri-SLI EVGA 670 4GB SC, Water Cooled)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Build Log] Pandamonium (TH10 w/Ped, RIVE w/3930K, Tri-SLI EVGA 670 4GB SC, Water Cooled) - Page 4

post #31 of 431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by theseekeroffun View Post

Let me know how loud the pumps are if you test them. I have planned to use two in the pedestal.

Will do. I'll try to take a video of them and post it for you. Note mine are going in the main case, so you might experience more resonance than I will.
post #32 of 431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emissary of Pain View Post

And to think I can't even afford a 180.2 and a pump ... lmao
Subbed +

Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplynicko View Post

is the monsta all copper like the UT60? i was gonna get the monsta but it didn't say in it's description that its all copper, like the UT60

Got this off the FrozenCPU description: Side panels steel, threads brass, copper chambers. Hope that helps.
post #33 of 431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reglar View Post

Got this off the FrozenCPU description: Side panels steel, threads brass, copper chambers. Hope that helps.

BTW, this is what FrozenCPU has for the UT60: Side panels steel, threads brass, copper chambers, so looks like the same construction, just larger.
post #34 of 431
Rad setup is about 400% overkill XD. Awesome build though thumb.gif
Swag box m8
(13 items)
 
7 x BL460c
(6 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500K Asus P8P67 Sapphire HD 5770 2x8GB Corsair 1333MHz 
Hard DriveMonitorMonitorPower
Corsair Force 3 120GB Aoc F22S+ Aoc F22S+ Powercool 850W 80+ 
Case
NZXT Phantom 
CPUCPUMotherboardRAM
Xeon E5520  Xeon E5520  BL460c G6 12GB ECC DDR3 
Hard DriveOS
1TB of SAN Server 2008 R2 
  hide details  
Reply
Swag box m8
(13 items)
 
7 x BL460c
(6 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500K Asus P8P67 Sapphire HD 5770 2x8GB Corsair 1333MHz 
Hard DriveMonitorMonitorPower
Corsair Force 3 120GB Aoc F22S+ Aoc F22S+ Powercool 850W 80+ 
Case
NZXT Phantom 
CPUCPUMotherboardRAM
Xeon E5520  Xeon E5520  BL460c G6 12GB ECC DDR3 
Hard DriveOS
1TB of SAN Server 2008 R2 
  hide details  
Reply
post #35 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reglar View Post

BTW, this is what FrozenCPU has for the UT60: Side panels steel, threads brass, copper chambers, so looks like the same construction, just larger.

That is accurate. http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p986_Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Full-Copper-480mm.html
DUALBRAIN
(15 items)
 
  
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
Xeon X5680 Xeon X5680 eVGA SR-2 eVGA GTX 780 Ti 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
eVGA GTX 780 Ti 24 GB Corsair Dominator Samsung 840 Pro Aqua Kryos x 2 CPU, Aqua Nickel Ti x 2, MIPS MB... 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win 7 Ultimate Dell U3415W Func KB 460 & Happy Hacker Pro 2 Corsair 1200 AXi 
CaseMouseAudio
Case Labs TH 10 Func Audio Engine A5+ 
  hide details  
Reply
DUALBRAIN
(15 items)
 
  
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
Xeon X5680 Xeon X5680 eVGA SR-2 eVGA GTX 780 Ti 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
eVGA GTX 780 Ti 24 GB Corsair Dominator Samsung 840 Pro Aqua Kryos x 2 CPU, Aqua Nickel Ti x 2, MIPS MB... 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win 7 Ultimate Dell U3415W Func KB 460 & Happy Hacker Pro 2 Corsair 1200 AXi 
CaseMouseAudio
Case Labs TH 10 Func Audio Engine A5+ 
  hide details  
Reply
post #36 of 431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by overclocker23578 View Post

Rad setup is about 400% overkill XD. Awesome build though thumb.gif

Thanks, you know what they say - overkill is overrated!
post #37 of 431
Thread Starter 
I started the prep for the fans. I know there is lots of documentation on the web on how to do it; I've included pictures from my prep for those who haven't seen it before.

First off, here's the before picture.



Here I am using my heat gun on the label, using enough heat for the edges to crinkle in but not completely melting it.



The label is now ready to be removed.



Start to pull the label away from the back, eventually removing it completely.





You can see that it leaves the back clean of sticker glue.




This is what you get when you have several dozen fans to do...



Now we need to remove the retaining clip holding the fan blade post on the bearings. It's the black metal ring with 2 "fingers", which in this picture are point down and right.



Now this clip easily can fly off while you are removing it, so I highly recommend you do it in a clear plastic bag so that when it does zip off somewhere the bag will catch it and you can find it.



You can see that the clip is pretty small, and if it goes flinging off somewhere it will be very difficult to find. Make sure you put these someplace safe; I am using a bunch of ziploc sandwich bags.



Next you can pull the fan blades off. Note the spring and it's orientation on the fan post.



Next remove the top bearing.



Don't forget to grab the bottom bearing. They are exactly the same so you can save them in the same bag/container.



We need to remove the motor. Luckily this is fairly easy, simply rotate the motor counter clockwise until the space on the motor aligns with the retaining notch.

Starting position



Rotated counter clockwise.



Pull the motor up, and save the spring under it.



Now you have a clean frame, and don't need to tape off the motor during painting.



Next up we prep the fan blades for painting. You can see that I am using some Rust-oleum and painters tape.



Here I put two pieces of tape on the magnet area of the blades.



Then using a sharp knife I cut the tape against the farthest wall so that it leaves extra tape I can use later to cover the lip.



Now I remove the tape that was cutoff.



You can see it leaves extra tape which I then press down against the lip of the magnet area.



And here's the finished product, fan blades and frame are now ready for painting.



Only 39 fans left to go!

A reminder to use the bag when putting the clip back on. It might fly off as you are pushing it on, and again you don't want to be trying to find it.

Edited by Reglar - 8/11/12 at 4:52pm
post #38 of 431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reglar View Post

Thanks, you know what they say - overkill is overrated!

You know, reading that again it's completely opposite to what I'm doing, I have no idea what I was thinking when I wrote that.
post #39 of 431
You think you could spare a couple of those AP-15s...

Kidding! Although I'm now gonna blame you for all the Gentle Typhoons being out of stock on Newegg ;P
post #40 of 431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by theseekeroffun View Post

Let me know how loud the pumps are if you test them. I have planned to use two in the pedestal.

Ok, I put together one of the pumps with the res on top and a simple return line. I couldn't hear the pumps due to the returning water creating so much agitation that air kept being pulled into the pumps and all you hear is air running around a loop. These pumps put out!

Of course I forgot to order anti-cyclone adapters so I just placed an order for 2, in the meantime I'll make a poor man's version using a 90 degree fitting and try it again.

Subjectively they did not seem loud to me, but I'll put a video up on YouTube Sunday.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Build Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] Pandamonium (TH10 w/Ped, RIVE w/3930K, Tri-SLI EVGA 670 4GB SC, Water Cooled)