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Feel like upgrading, but what to get?

post #1 of 20
8/9/12 at 1:34pm
Thread Starter 
So I have a Rasa RS360 in my NZXT Phantom right now, and I feel like adding on what I have/upgrading. Here's what I was thinking, Suggestions would be appreciated


Where is the cheapest place to get these items? Also any suggestions?
NZXT Switch 810
240mm thick rad
gtx680 water block for my gtx670 ftw

tubing, and not sure what kinda barbs or compression fittings I should get.
Barbs + clamps or compression fittings? If barbs, which ones and if the compression fittings, which ones are good?

Most likely going with 7/16 tubing and 1/2 inch barbs/fittings as I believe that's what came with the rasa rs360 kit, so they are all the same.

Also question, is the rasa 750 pump powerful enough to pump through the 360 thin + 240 thick rad?
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post #2 of 20
8/9/12 at 3:38pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda View Post

So I have a Rasa RS360 in my NZXT Phantom right now, and I feel like adding on what I have/upgrading. Here's what I was thinking, Suggestions would be appreciated
Where is the cheapest place to get these items? Also any suggestions?
NZXT Switch 810
240mm thick rad
gtx680 water block for my gtx670 ftw
tubing, and not sure what kinda barbs or compression fittings I should get.
Barbs + clamps or compression fittings? If barbs, which ones and if the compression fittings, which ones are good?
Most likely going with 7/16 tubing and 1/2 inch barbs/fittings as I believe that's what came with the rasa rs360 kit, so they are all the same.
Also question, is the rasa 750 pump powerful enough to pump through the 360 thin + 240 thick rad?

I have 2 rigs and in one its barbs and clamps and the other is compression. I guess I pulled on it put I sprung a leak with the barb rig.. Didnt ruin anything but could of. The compression fittings are nicer, easier, and better piece of mind. But the cost is what kills it. Its only as smart as the installer..

I have heard a lot of negative press about the pump in the rasa 750s.. Thats why I upgraded the kit I bought. Not only does it matter what rads it runs through but how long the tubing is.. I think you need an upgrade.

No real suggestions on where to get the stuff sorry.
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post #3 of 20
8/9/12 at 3:54pm
Performance PC for all of it. The only thing cheap than everything else would be rad, but since they sell everything, you might as well shove everything into a box and pay for shipping once
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post #4 of 20
8/9/12 at 5:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda View Post

So I have a Rasa RS360 in my NZXT Phantom right now, and I feel like adding on what I have/upgrading. Here's what I was thinking, Suggestions would be appreciated
Where is the cheapest place to get these items?

since your in florida, the best would be Performance PC in Palm Bay.
they got pretty much everything on your want list and more..

the barb/compression is preference.. i still use the 7/16" on 1/2" barb with
no issues in leakage. comps are more "pricey" and with the "color" can get
really expensive quick.

pumps, the 750 can do it, but the noise with the extra addition will prolly
do it in, in time. i'd use the ddc (35(X) or D5 for the added resistance in the
loop. the ddc might need soem heating protection with a heatsink and fan
combo. either have been used in the 810 builds.

airdeano
Edited by airdeano - 8/9/12 at 5:52pm
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post #5 of 20
8/9/12 at 6:11pm
Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 for the rad would be my choice, from PPCs.
The Switch can be had for a good price at Newegg when it goes on sale, and Microcenter has it for $139 if there is one nearby.
XSPC Compression Fittings are cheap and very nice, $4 a piece.
For the 670FTW, I vote for the Heatkiller block with the backplate. It's what I am getting for use on the same card, and it is absolutely beautiful.
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post #6 of 20
8/9/12 at 9:03pm
Thread Starter 
where can I find a heatkiller block? I saw a few of the other blocks, but what makes the heatkillers better than another 680 block?

also, if I replaced the 750 res/pump combo with a d5 res/pump combo, would that be sufficient to pump through the 360+240 rad? and possibly an additional 120 rad?

are the cheap xspc compression fittings reliable enough for 4 bucks each?
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post #7 of 20
8/9/12 at 9:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda View Post

where can I find a heatkiller block? I saw a few of the other blocks, but what makes the heatkillers better than another 680 block?
also, if I replaced the 750 res/pump combo with a d5 res/pump combo, would that be sufficient to pump through the 360+240 rad? and possibly an additional 120 rad?
are the cheap xspc compression fittings reliable enough for 4 bucks each?

performance pc.. here
yes, the D5 can handle that.. just make the loop lines efficient to keep noise down.
why the addional 120. your 680 isnt that crappy in temps...
i believe in the XSPC comps if i have to use comps..

airdeano

edit: link repaired..
Edited by airdeano - 8/10/12 at 3:43pm
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post #8 of 20
8/9/12 at 9:50pm
Yes, the XSPC are extremely reliable. I have never heard of them failing.

The Heatkiller block is available at Performance PCs as is the backplate. It's nice due to the huge amount of copper used, the active cooling of all parts of the carand the ones with nickel plating are done extremely well (never will flake). Plus, the optional backplate is seriously awesome and actually functions to cool the back of the card passively, as it has a number of holes in a raised area to allow heat to escape via airflow across the card or even by natural convection.

The D5 would be plenty of pump, although I personally prefer the MCP35X for its PWM control, small size, and the fact that it doesn't dump heat into the loop. A $12 heatsink will keep it around 33-35C and lower if you have any active airflow across it or attach a ln 80x15mm fan.
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post #9 of 20
8/10/12 at 6:33am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Yes, the XSPC are extremely reliable. I have never heard of them failing.
The Heatkiller block is available at Performance PCs as is the backplate. It's nice due to the huge amount of copper used, the active cooling of all parts of the carand the ones with nickel plating are done extremely well (never will flake). Plus, the optional backplate is seriously awesome and actually functions to cool the back of the card passively, as it has a number of holes in a raised area to allow heat to escape via airflow across the card or even by natural convection.
The D5 would be plenty of pump, although I personally prefer the MCP35X for its PWM control, small size, and the fact that it doesn't dump heat into the loop. A $12 heatsink will keep it around 33-35C and lower if you have any active airflow across it or attach a ln 80x15mm fan.

where would I find such a heatsink? I wasn't aware it would dump extra heat into the loop

also, airdeano, you linked me to a splitter on ebay, not ppcs

I was looking at the alphacool nexxos on ppcs and they are out of the 60mm thick 240mm rads, is the 80mm thick rad any better or should I find another 60mm thick rad?

Any opinions on this rad?

would these compression fittings be correct to fit 1/2 inch tubing? what would the dimensions of the tubing i would use with this fitting? 1/2 inch inner diameter tubing or 7/16inch inner diameter tubing?

unfortunately the backplate for the heatkiller is oos on ppcs

also is there and recommendations regarding tubing? is there any better brand than another?
Edited by chinesethunda - 8/10/12 at 7:00am
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post #10 of 20
8/10/12 at 3:02pm
For 1/2-3/4 Tubing the compression fittings must be 1/2-3/4. With comps, the inner and Outer Diameter must match exactly.

Going with the Monstra 80mm rad would not provide much benefit unless you have room for push and pull fans as it is so thick that even with the low fin count you need to have a lot of static pressure to take advantage of it. I would stick with an Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240, personally.

The backplate is OOS there, but check out FrozenCPU, Sidewinder, and Xoxide as one of them will certainly have it.

The MCP35X heatsink is available at Jab-Tech for 12 bucks, and is money well spent. I prefer to have my pump cooled by good airflow rather than adding additional heat to the loop, however minimal that heat may be (35W or so for D5).

I like Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT tubing, 1/2ID 3/4OD, although people have had plasticizer issues with it (people have had plasticizer issues with almost every brand of tubing). So long as you are using nothing but distilled water and a kill coil (or PT Nuke/IandH Copper Biocide) you will be fine. It's an aesthetics issue, not a performance issue. If you are getting colored tubing, just maintain your loop every six months and you will be more than happy.
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