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Which of these PSU will work for me? - Page 2

post #11 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by qwan456 View Post

PSU calculators doesn't provide power draw, but an approximation of what you should buy with a large leeway to take into account lower-end PSUs. Most likely those calculators aren't as good as the OCN's PSUCalc, nor is it as reliable as the knowledgeable users who not only give you a more realistic power draw, but is capable of give you input of each PSU out there - either about the build quality, electrical performance, the technology that is used in it, the power reserve that the PSU has (many of the higher-end power supply are capable of delivering more than what it is rated for). None of the PSU calcs are able to do this, and the only one that close to doing this is the one that I had linked that is made by our previous PSU Editor, Phaedrus2129, and FiX.

eXtreme PSU is the only calculator that gives you the most choices to plug in, giving you the most accurate results. Also, I have a program that monitors my electric meter, and when I am folding, running benches or gaming; it tells me I have over a 700watt increase in usage.
post #12 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericld View Post

eXtreme PSU is the only calculator that gives you the most choices to plug in, giving you the most accurate results. Also, I have a program that monitors my electric meter, and when I am folding, running benches or gaming; it tells me I have over a 700watt increase in usage.

Having more choices doesn't mean it will give you more accurate results but rather give the calculator more chances to screw up. Not to mentioned many of the configuration that it gives you hardly put out a lot of power draw.

What program you are using to monitor your power usage?
post #13 of 20
Thread Starter 
Google Power monitor and The Energy Detective. Its saved me a good bit of money on my electric bills.
post #14 of 20
So that's a measurement at the meter for the entire house? Power draws from the wall is not factoring in efficiency. If you want to get the actual power draw, it would be better to get it at DC output with clamp ammeter. Also, with a PSU that is likely failing, the voltage regulation and ripple suppression isn't as good as when you first got it. This can mess with your OC and causing it to run at a higher voltage which in turn cause higher power draw. When you get your new PSU, see if you are able to adjust your OC, as the power consumption from the wall is shown to have an input of 271w (obviously not everybody going to achieve the same thing, but it gives you an idea) while running Prime95 with a 3.8GHz overclock on the PII x4 or ~200w when factoring out the idled GTX260 and efficiency conversion. Even if you factored in a fully stress 7970 and an Asus Xonar D2X, that's under 500w power draw, and this is even more true with gaming. It's very difficult to believe that you are yielding worse result than those with a GTX580 or similar results with an OCed i7-930 and 570 in SLI during games.

Anyways, I guess whatever we would say otherwise wouldn't matter. If you looking to save on your electricity bill as well as you mention something about heat, aim for a solid Gold or Platinum PSU. Not only it will save a bit more money than some of the bronze unit you are looking at, less energy is being put out in heat which allow it to run at a cooler operating temperature as well as it may be quieter as well under load (unless the fan is just straight up noisy).
Edited by qwan456 - 8/12/12 at 10:19am
post #15 of 20
Thread Starter 
I know that using Google power meter is not very accurate, but it gives me an idea of the inefficiency of my current PSU, and taking in consideration that it probably has something failing inside. 271w is what I am being told my CPU is using under load (OC'd), and KitGuru is saying that this card clocked at 1GHz is pulling 273watts. That is GPU watts, not total system wattage. This is all probable TDP and not normal gaming loads, but even still, if I get a 850w PSU, and the system loads to 500-550watts max, then I am still comfortably in the 65% range and in optimal operating conditions of the PSU. To be a minimalist with PSUs is just asking for problems. Some may get lucky, most will probably get burned in one way or another. I dont feel like gambling. On the flip side, I think going overboard is not necessary either, but if you want to waste the money on a 1k plus PSU, go for it.

With that said, I went ahead and ordered this SeaSonic 850 PSU from Newegg and used the 15% off promo. I tried to ask a simple question, which PSU is better, and only got you dont need that much in response. I am sure it will be fine, but I was hoping for some input from people who have used them.
post #16 of 20
I for one don't care too much on how you spend your money, as long as what you aren't getting something that is crap or ridiculously priced (like two units that base on the same PSU and spend up to $100 more over the other). The advice given to you here was to provide a cheaper and yet probably "better" (which you may argue) alternative than what you are looking at to power your system especially when you aren't planning on CFX. If you still insist on getting something of higher capacity despite what had been said, someone may step up and give you a recommendation base on what you want. Like I would probably had suggested the Xcilio Stablepower Gold (which is base on the same high-end Enhance platform that the Silverstone Strider Gold units are) or the Roswill Capstone 750w Modular or NZXT Hale90 750w over the mainstream SS-850AM unit (the NZXT Hale82 is also base on that unit, btw).

I didn't recommend anything at the time because when you said your Zalman was almost running at 100% load due to a calculator or that the power draw went over 700w during gaming, you made it sound like a 550w recommendation like the Kingwin LZP-550w will not work, and it is making you stray away from anything lower. It's ~500w max load; while gaming load is <350w; idle/normal usage: <150w. While that unit is a high-end 550w Platinum, it also could have been labeled as a 650w Gold unit, so that's <80% during stressing condition; <~55% during gaming condition; <25% under normal usage. Quite honestly, I would say that's a more of a optimal operating condition for ALL loads. It is not just going to burned out, as we are talking about a high-end unit here. If you were running F@H a budget lower end unit like the Corsair CX600v2, then I would probably agree.

But like I said, the decision is up to you. If you happy with what you had bought, then I guess it doesn't matter too much, especially since you have the option of CFX if you ever change your mind I guess.
post #17 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by qwan456 View Post

I for one don't care too much on how you spend your money, as long as what you aren't getting something that is crap or ridiculously priced (like two units that base on the same PSU and spend up to $100 more over the other). The advice given to you here was to provide a cheaper and yet probably "better" (which you may argue) alternative than what you are looking at to power your system especially when you aren't planning on CFX. If you still insist on getting something of higher capacity despite what had been said, someone may step up and give you a recommendation base on what you want. Like I would probably had suggested the Xcilio Stablepower Gold (which is base on the same high-end Enhance platform that the Silverstone Strider Gold units are) or the Roswill Capstone 750w Modular or NZXT Hale90 750w over the mainstream SS-850AM unit (the NZXT Hale82 is also base on that unit, btw).
I didn't recommend anything at the time because when you said your Zalman was almost running at 100% load due to a calculator or that the power draw went over 700w during gaming, you made it sound like a 550w recommendation like the Kingwin LZP-550w will not work, and it is making you stray away from anything lower. It's ~500w max load; while gaming load is <350w; idle/normal usage: <150w. While that unit is a high-end 550w Platinum, it also could have been labeled as a 650w Gold unit, so that's <80% during stressing condition; <~55% during gaming condition; <25% under normal usage. Quite honestly, I would say that's a more of a optimal operating condition for ALL loads. It is not just going to burned out, as we are talking about a high-end unit here. If you were running F@H a budget lower end unit like the Corsair CX600v2, then I would probably agree.
But like I said, the decision is up to you. If you happy with what you had bought, then I guess it doesn't matter too much, especially since you have the option of CFX if you ever change your mind I guess.

Again, it is amazing how no one just answers the question first asked. Everyone just wants to through numbers out there. The only additional comment should have been, that I might want to go with the Seasonic gold series. Not because of the extra 4% efficiency, but because it has a cleaner voltage output and might make for a more stable overclock.
post #18 of 20
I recently had to get a new ps and went with the Seasonic X1050. I'm very happy with the purchase ans see that Newegg has the X750 for $119.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151087 . Might want to check that out.
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(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 2600k Asrock Extreme 7 Gen 3 3 x Sapphire 7950 16 GB GSkill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 830 SSD 2x Samsung F1 Samsung TFC 480, 360, BI 140. EK 250 res. 355 with XSP... Win 7 + Vista 
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Catleap Corsair K90 Seasonic X1050 Corsair 800d 
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Main system
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 2600k Asrock Extreme 7 Gen 3 3 x Sapphire 7950 16 GB GSkill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 830 SSD 2x Samsung F1 Samsung TFC 480, 360, BI 140. EK 250 res. 355 with XSP... Win 7 + Vista 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Catleap Corsair K90 Seasonic X1050 Corsair 800d 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Coolermaster Spawn Ratpad Soundblaster XFi HD Logitech Z5500 
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post #19 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericld View Post

Again, it is amazing how no one just answers the question first asked. Everyone just wants to through numbers out there. The only additional comment should have been, that I might want to go with the Seasonic gold series. Not because of the extra 4% efficiency, but because it has a cleaner voltage output and might make for a more stable overclock.

When someone may end up probably on something that they may not need and aren't aware of other alternatives that we believe to be a better option, we would want to make the person aware of the fact that there are alternative first before giving any feedback on the options that you had provided. Or else you may ignore any further feedback on the alternative (this happens a lot) and look at what matters to you. So again, you providing numbers from PSUcalcs and such was the reason why I had replied to you, as you using those numbers to disregard our feedback.

Btw, if that 4% efficiency part was directed at me, you had mentioned the whole 50% concept, which the concept came from there in the first place.

Since I'm seemingly look like I'm trolling now...Here's a few quick input while disregarding your build. The TX850-M is an overpriced mainstream unit. The Lepa G850-MA is cheaper at Newegg, but the three 750w I had mentioned would be a better deal (it also will not really provide you more power on it considering it's only has 62.5A on the +12v rail). The Corsair AX850 is internally identical to the Seasonic X850, which is $189 before the 15% promo code, which will come down to $162 which I would say is a good deal than any of the other PSU that your had pick in that price range. I'm not sure of the TT Smart though, as I tend to get confused with their lineups... Other 850w alternatives are the Silverstone Strider Gold 850w for $134.99 after MIR.
post #20 of 20
You're wasting your time qwan, wasting good advice as well. wink.gif
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