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[Official] The Astrophotography Thread - Page 18

post #171 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by VaiFanatic View Post

Amazingly clear sky, but none of my shots were turning out nicely. Always constantly out of focus, and the cold didn't help trying to focus with numbs hands!
Same problem here, but I did turn out one good test shot: https://dl.dropbox.com/s/co2rq7kwfaeiwnu/DSC_0036.JPG I didn't have a star chart with me so don't ask what I was aiming at... I don't know. tongue.gif I refer to it as a test shot simply due to all my shots the last few nights being shots to test exposure and focus (using a D5100 + Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 AF-S prime, switched to full manual, with a UV filter and the hood both mounted). Most were spectacular failures, but I do like how that one came out. I would like to get close to the results ErOR got (see post 158 in here) but obviously getting it exactly as good as that isn't possible, there are limits to what the lens can do. It's not a NOCT-Nikkor, after all. tongue.gif Edit; I've been out messing with it again tonight despite finger-freezing temps (I can't be out more than 10 minutes or I just can't use the camera anymore) and the moon washed out the starlight, but I was able to get nearly perfect focus and shot this: https://dl.dropbox.com/s/9tg514c8ieriw2r/DSC_0048.JPG

Still new to all this but getting better. tongue.gif
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post #172 of 252
Hello all, it's been a while since I've done any astrophotography. Last night I found myself in my favourite spot at 3am with my camera so how could not take some shots biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunky_Chimp View Post

Same problem here, but I did turn out one good test shot: https://dl.dropbox.com/s/co2rq7kwfaeiwnu/DSC_0036.JPG I didn't have a star chart with me so don't ask what I was aiming at... I don't know. tongue.gif I refer to it as a test shot simply due to all my shots the last few nights being shots to test exposure and focus (using a D5100 + Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 AF-S prime, switched to full manual, with a UV filter and the hood both mounted). Most were spectacular failures, but I do like how that one came out. I would like to get close to the results ErOR got (see post 158 in here) but obviously getting it exactly as good as that isn't possible, there are limits to what the lens can do. It's not a NOCT-Nikkor, after all. tongue.gif Edit; I've been out messing with it again tonight despite finger-freezing temps (I can't be out more than 10 minutes or I just can't use the camera anymore) and the moon washed out the starlight, but I was able to get nearly perfect focus and shot this: https://dl.dropbox.com/s/9tg514c8ieriw2r/DSC_0048.JPG
Still new to all this but getting better. tongue.gif

Shooting in a dark area makes the biggest difference, light pollution really kills the sky. I suggest you try again at f1.8 1600+ ISO and 6 seconds or so. Depends where you shoot as the stars further from celestial point go faster so exposure time varies. It pays to know what your shooting and some knowledge of astronomy and such.

My shot which your talking about was done at the same place as the shot below which is a fairly dark location and with a wide angle lens so I could ramp up the exposure time. Since the sky is dark you want to be able to grab as much photons as possible in the shortest amount of time, that's why fast lenses and wide lenses do wonders for wide field astrophotography.

I suggest, if you want to capture stars and nebulosity of the milky way or whatever, don't shoot directly at the moon lol

EDIT: I forgot to mention post processing images goes a long way, can really bring out the details.

This is Eta Carina mostly, 3 shots stacked at 8 seconds, 1600ISO and with 24mm lens (38mm with crop).

Edited by ErOR - 1/5/13 at 12:10am
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post #173 of 252
Yeah, I would like a wider lens than this, I drastically underestimated how it would be framing shots at that focal length. Looking at how I've been working so far I really would like to work with a prime non-fisheye below 20mm. Not sure if there are any relatively cheap Nikkor lenses that are optically good enough to do that... or if any fast DX-compatible non-fisheye primes even exist under 20mm. redface.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErOR View Post

Shooting in a dark area makes the biggest difference, light pollution really kills the sky.
Yep. The main differences between the shots I posted are that in the first one, I did have some light pollution off my neighbors' house, which has very bright porch lights, and the second one was without any such pollution. I'm far enough south of the city to avoid its light pollution except where there are clouds, but I have been shooting under a fairly strong upper-level ridge that's deflected all the moisture far north of us, so there haven't been any clouds. Unfortunately it also means it's extremely cold each night and again, I can't stay out very long. redface.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErOR View Post

I suggest you try again at f1.8 1600+ ISO and 6 seconds or so.
The starlight shot was at 6 seconds, actually, but 800 ISO. I'll wait for the new moon to hit and try that, I'd rather not worry about it. tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErOR View Post

I suggest, if you want to capture stars and nebulosity of the milky way or whatever, don't shoot directly at the moon lol
Well, the shot with the moon in it was done deliberately; having everything framed that way with the moonlight hitting it tempted me to shoot it, so I did. tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErOR View Post

EDIT: I forgot to mention post processing images goes a long way, can really bring out the details.
Hm, I must be the only guy that doesn't want to do that. I'd rather show what I shot, not what I washed through software. tongue.gif
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post #174 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunky_Chimp View Post

Yeah, I would like a wider lens than this, I drastically underestimated how it would be framing shots at that focal length. Looking at how I've been working so far I really would like to work with a prime non-fisheye below 20mm. Not sure if there are any relatively cheap Nikkor lenses that are optically good enough to do that... or if any fast DX-compatible non-fisheye primes even exist under 20mm. redface.gif
Yep. The main differences between the shots I posted are that in the first one, I did have some light pollution off my neighbors' house, which has very bright porch lights, and the second one was without any such pollution. I'm far enough south of the city to avoid its light pollution except where there are clouds, but I have been shooting under a fairly strong upper-level ridge that's deflected all the moisture far north of us, so there haven't been any clouds. Unfortunately it also means it's extremely cold each night and again, I can't stay out very long. redface.gif
The starlight shot was at 6 seconds, actually, but 800 ISO. I'll wait for the new moon to hit and try that, I'd rather not worry about it. tongue.gif
Well, the shot with the moon in it was done deliberately; having everything framed that way with the moonlight hitting it tempted me to shoot it, so I did. tongue.gif
Hm, I must be the only guy that doesn't want to do that. I'd rather show what I shot, not what I washed through software. tongue.gif

Samyang 14mm f2.8 is on my to-buy list, it's fully manual and non fisheye, double win! Nikkor lenses are pretty expensive, the 24mm I scored for almost half price.

When it comes to no post processing astrophotography you'll be chasing darker skies and better nights, which don't come often.

When doing macro I usually focus stack 10+ images for a better DOF, when doing astrophotography I need to make adjustments to make the images pop more otherwise it's very dull or unbalanced. I took a great shot but missed the exposure a bit, no worries, photoshop/lightroom will let me fix it and so on. Post processing, to me is an extension of photography, if I can I will, for the better of course.
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post #175 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErOR View Post

Samyang 14mm f2.8 is on my to-buy list, it's fully manual and non fisheye, double win! Nikkor lenses are pretty expensive, the 24mm I scored for almost half price.
Is that all there is for a non-FE sub-20mm DX-compatible lens, that one Samyang? Or are there Nikkors, but they're horribly expensive?
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post #176 of 252
I think Tokina makes an 11-16/2.8 -- might want to have a look into that if you need something really wide.
post #177 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunky_Chimp View Post

Is that all there is for a non-FE sub-20mm DX-compatible lens, that one Samyang? Or are there Nikkors, but they're horribly expensive?

No, of course not but for the price it's a great lens. You can buy the standard 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 which is cheap, decent performer and F3.5 at 18mm ain't too bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

I think Tokina makes an 11-16/2.8 -- might want to have a look into that if you need something really wide.

Yes, the Tokina 11-16 F2.8 is an even better lens than the Samyang 14mm but at almost twice the price.
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post #178 of 252
The Samyang is a distortion nightmare, and considerably less versatile than the Tokina, IMO.
post #179 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

I think Tokina makes an 11-16/2.8 -- might want to have a look into that if you need something really wide.
Yeah, I've known about that one, but I'm after a fast prime in that range, not a zoom. tongue.gif
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post #180 of 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by sub50hz View Post

The Samyang is a distortion nightmare, and considerably less versatile than the Tokina, IMO.

Which is easily fixable, I really don't see a big issue with distortion but the Tokina is definitely better it just depends how much you want to spend. I'm still a student, I go for cheaper option and work around the problems.
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