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O/C Temp problem with i7 960, suggestions?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
Hey all,

I recently completed my first loop. Its a black ice gt stealth 360 rad;
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4283/ex-rad-88/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_360_Radiator_-_Black.html
*high fin count, 30 FPI*
6 of these fans in push/pull;
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835228012

And the cooling results I am getting are disappointing. My CPU is idling no differently that it did with an ECO ALC all in one cooling system, idling around 40c at STOCK.

And these are at stock settings for voltage and clocks, as you can see. One of my friends said I would need higher performance fans for my radiator because of the high fin count of 30FPI. Your take on that? I've tried reseating it to no avail. I cannot get my CPU to idle lower than ~40c. I've also been told that these first gen i7's just ran hot--so is this to be expected? My temps are causing a hard limit on my OC, I can't go over 4ghz without getting into the 90c+ range under full load.

Any input/suggestions appreciated. Thanks in advance! smile.gif
post #2 of 15
It's not your idles you need to be concerned about, it's the load temps. What are they hitting when you run Prime95?

Comps
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
About 70-75 on stock, which is scaring me and making me want to avoid any more voltage or overclocking at all.
post #4 of 15
What is the room temp where you are at? 40C idle is not hot for that chip, and the OC limit temps on that chip are about 100c before it starts throttling..
With H2O you should be able to OC that chip to 4.4GHz or better and never come close to 100c
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post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 
I'm wondering, should I be watching the CPU temp or the CORE temps? Because the CPU temp is always reported lower than the core temps, by 5c-10c depending on load. I'm thinking of either lapping the chip and my waterblock or removing the IHS. The chip is 2 years old and honestly I wanted an upgrade anyway, so why not have a fun last few moments.
post #6 of 15
You should watch the core temps. If they're hitting 70-75 you have some headroom, these chips get hot but they can take it.
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post #7 of 15
dosent matter what kind of rad you have if you have a crappy block or pump, and bad fans that cant really push the air through the dense fins.
 
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post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post

dosent matter what kind of rad you have if you have a crappy block or pump, and bad fans that cant really push the air through the dense fins.

That wasn't very helpful.
My CPU block;
http://www.dangerden.com/store/mc-tdx-for-intel-i7-nehalem-1366.html

My pump;
http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-laing-ddc-3.25-12v-18-watt-version.html
with;
http://www.xs-pc.com/products/laing-pump-top-reservoir/acrylic-tank-reservoir-for-laing-ddc/
*1/2" fittings used all around system*

Are you suggesting, that with this setup, my block, pump or fans are not correct? What do you say I should change, and why?
post #9 of 15
the reservoir is fine, the pump is fine, but the cpu block is bad. that looks really cheaply built and looks like it has close to no flow. please do yourself (and your i7) a favor and get a Heatkiller 3.0 nickel. pricey at 99.99 but Very worth it as it is the highest flowing block out there. the EK supreme HF beats it but is cheaply built.


see the thing is that if you have a block that is cheap (60 dollars is) it wont have good flow and efficent heat transfer. the pump you have has good head pressure (its the oem version of the swiftech mcp355) so that is good for cpu only loops.

also, if you have fans with bad static pressure rating then the fin density of the 360 rad will actually detriment your performance.
 
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Simba
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128GB Crucial M4 1TB Caviar Blue, 640GB Caviar Blue 2x2TB Western Digital Reds coming Prolimatech Megahalems w/ 2x San Ace H1011's pu... 
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post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post

the reservoir is fine, the pump is fine, but the cpu block is bad. that looks really cheaply built and looks like it has close to no flow. please do yourself (and your i7) a favor and get a Heatkiller 3.0 nickel. pricey at 99.99 but Very worth it as it is the highest flowing block out there. the EK supreme HF beats it but is cheaply built.
see the thing is that if you have a block that is cheap (60 dollars is) it wont have good flow and efficent heat transfer. the pump you have has good head pressure (its the oem version of the swiftech mcp355) so that is good for cpu only loops.
also, if you have fans with bad static pressure rating then the fin density of the 360 rad will actually detriment your performance.

This is the second time I am linking the fans I bought;
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835228012

I have 6 of those in push/pull out of my radiator right now. Is that cutting it for 30 fins per inch, or do I need higher CFM/pressure? Any recommendations for fans if those aren't good enough?
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