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[Build Log] Mini Elite Crusher - Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced - Page 3

post #21 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

That's a shame. Can you let us know exactly what brands and what went wrong? Then maybe your bad experience can help warn someone off a wrong combination in the future.

I used Rust-Oleum automotive primer after scuffing all the stock paint on the interior of the case, I washed with water and micro fibre cloth to ensure no dust would be in the case.

After letting it sun dry I put the first coat of primer on and it basically started balling up and doing weird odd crap from that point on. I sanded down the primer smooth - what actually stuck on and didn't ball up and tried to put another coat of primer on, the second coat went on better which I then sanded and washed, dried and applied a coat of Rust-Oleum white lacquer and it just continued to ball up, almost like something was seeping up through the layers.

When I tried to sand the white to smooth it out all of the layers peeled off, including the primer.

I think it was a mix of not sticking and a weird reaction to the stock paint, idk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthybox View Post

sand it?

Haha, yeah I tried to do some sanding by hand and if I wanted to take over a month to complete my project I suppose I could sand it all down by hand - with no gaurantees that the paint wouldn't just do the exact same thing it did the first time.

I'll save the case for another project, perhaps I'll find a used blaster on craigslist or something to take it all the way down to the bare metal, I'll drill all the rivets and paint the individual pieces instead of trying to paint it as one piece.

Another problem I found as well was the paint made the drive bay too short in height for my 4 in 1 5.25 bay device where I'll be storing my harddrives so it's basically going to keep me from completing the build with the paint on it - the bay device was a tight fit already and the paint just made it impossible to slide in.

I should have another cooler master 120 elite by tomorrow, all I'll have to do is drill the hdd bay out on the new one and continue mounting all the hardware in it, luckily I hadn't painted the side panelling on my first elite 120 so I don't have to recut the sides.
Edited by xyexz - 8/21/12 at 4:37pm
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post #22 of 83
Thread Starter 
Well this update is a day late for some of the stuff.

Got my watercooling parts in the mail the other day, they look glorious lol.

dsc00280.jpg
This is the 80mm radiator that is now in my possesion muahahaha.

dsc00281.jpg
Here is the radiator next to a bud light bottle for reference.

dsc00282.jpg
Radiator came with awesome looking copper caps and screws for the fans.

dsc00283.jpg
The XSPC GPU block!

dsc00284.jpg
Sexy backplate,grrrrr.

Ok so that's enough of that, onto the work portion biggrin.gif

dsc00272.jpg
Funny looking sticker with some kind of unknown writing on it, what's a warranty? lmao

dsc00275.jpg
Took the PSU apart to begin sleeving and found this beauty of a soldering job, really OCZ?

dsc00265.jpg
Basically your standard stuff, numbering all of the wires and depinning everything, yes I cut myself plenty of times in the process of removing the stock sleeving - that stock heatshrink is a pita.

dsc00279.jpg
Here's the PSU all finished up, I removed the 4 pin wire as I'm not using it in this build.

dsc00271.jpg
Went through and sleeved some of the front panel connectors for usb, audio etc as well - I took the time to remove the AC'97 portion of the HD AUDIO cable as it's not used for this build and it really cleaned things up with that cable.

dsc00285.jpg
Installed the gpu block and backplate on the gpu tonight as well, installed the wc fittings on the upper block portion as well, once the next cm 120 case gets here I'll be able to test fit the placement of the fittings, I may have to move the top on to the backside.

wp_000345.jpg
Took the time to place some of the Di-Noc on the front faceplate, I think it turned out rather well.

That's the updates for tonight people, the new cm elite 120 case will be dropped off tomorrow so I should have some major updates tomorrow night!
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post #23 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by xyexz View Post

I used Rust-Oleum automotive primer after scuffing all the stock paint on the interior of the case, I washed with water and micro fibre cloth to ensure no dust would be in the case.
After letting it sun dry I put the first coat of primer on and it basically started balling up and doing weird odd crap from that point on. I sanded down the primer smooth - what actually stuck on and didn't ball up and tried to put another coat of primer on, the second coat went on better which I then sanded and washed, dried and applied a coat of Rust-Oleum white lacquer and it just continued to ball up, almost like something was seeping up through the layers.

Another problem I found as well was the paint made the drive bay too short in height for my 4 in 1 5.25 bay device where I'll be storing my harddrives so it's basically going to keep me from completing the build with the paint on it - the bay device was a tight fit already and the paint just made it impossible to slide in.
I should have another cooler master 120 elite by tomorrow, all I'll have to do is drill the hdd bay out on the new one and continue mounting all the hardware in it, luckily I hadn't painted the side panelling on my first elite 120 so I don't have to recut the sides.

Good work so far, we are really entertained by your progress. We paint the Elite 120 in a dry powder coating type of way for steel. This means the parts have a slight negative charge and then the paint dust adheres and its cooked on. Did you try fixing or getting rid of the charge before painting over our factory coat?
    
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post #24 of 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CM MR HAF View Post

Good work so far, we are really entertained by your progress. We paint the Elite 120 in a dry powder coating type of way for steel. This means the parts have a slight negative charge and then the paint dust adheres and its cooked on. Did you try fixing or getting rid of the charge before painting over our factory coat?

Thanks for the compliment.

That's interesting for the paint method, I didn't know of that method before I attempted to paint it so perhaps that's what is messing with the paint I'm spraying, any tips on removing the charge would be most appreciated, it makes sense though now that I think about it because the case has a rough finish on it versus a smooth finish.

Anyways thanks for that information - I don't feel so bad now about my painting abilities haha.

I'm already thinking of a project for that case, it'll require a lot of sanding but that's okay - my other cm elite 120 case will be here today so I can at least finish this build and move on to the other one in the future and won't be as rushed.
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post #25 of 83
Thread Starter 
Okay big update tonight! UPS dropped the case off and I didn't waste anytime putting the build together, I didn't anticipate completing the watercooling tonight but ... well you'll see biggrin.gif

img_1288.jpg
So here I already drilled the rivets on the harddrive bay for the new elite 120 case, I also installed the NexXxos Monsta 120mm x 80mm radiator and the two SP120 Corsair fans.

Also I did a test fit of the swiftech micro rez which worked out beautifully since I was able to rotate the rad due to the shorter gpu pcb.

Also notice the sound dampening material that will be under the motherboard - I added it to my order from Frozen CPU last week for $0.99! There is so much of it I don't know what to do with the rest yet biggrin.gif

img_1290.jpg
Another view of basic start of the case build, you can see the other side of the rad better.

img_1294.jpg
After installing the motherboard I attempted to mate the gpu to the mobo, but I had an issue, the backplace from XSPC was so thick that it was hitting the RAM clips nearest the PCI-E slot.

img_1298.jpg
I took a dremel to the clips after taping all the sockets/slots off, since these clips are stationary it doesn't hurt to do this mod but I was nervous lol.

img_1300.jpg
Here the first line was routed from the rez to the intake of the AD2, sexy.

img_1306.jpg
After taking the PSU out I decided to put 90 degree fittings on the CPU block on both sides, I simply didn't like the PSU basically sitting on the hoses even though they weren't kinking or anything.

img_1308.jpg
Here is a shot of the GPU side of things, you can see the beastly rad here.

img_1309.jpg
Moment of truth, beginning the prime of the pump as well as air removal and leak testing.

img_1311.jpg
Used a lot of paper towels to help with the leak detection.

img_1312.jpg
I let her run for about an hour and kept shaking bubbles out for some time, turning psu on and off to get pump to jostle the bubbles through the system. Here is a shot of her all hooked up and running for real!

water-oc-4ghz-prime95-temp.png
All I can say is wow, I managed 4GHz without increasing the voltage and ran prime95 for just 5-6 minutes to see where it'd get to, very impressed. You can see that my chip has the problem of the core hotter than the rest ivy bridge junk - it's not nearly as bad as others I've seen and it isn't malfunctioning or anything so I will leave it alone as during gaming it'll be just fine for me.

water-oc-4ghz-bf3-full-round.png
This is a screenshot after playing a full round of BF3 on ultra, drives set to full quality and AA, AF and Vert sync turned on. The GPU managed to get "up to" 45 degrees lol, this thing rocks!

air-oc-4ghz-prime95-temp.png
For reference, here is when my cpu was still on air after building it fresh and running prime 95 with an OC of 4GHz, no voltage increase.

I currently have the fans running at ~1500rpm and I can barely hear them with the front faceplate on.

Motherboard temps seem to be doing just fine and are better than stock air cooling, even with the stock side fan gone!

Still have plenty to do on this build, need to paint the mesh mod on the side panels and finish the wire management but I'm going to be a little busy with BF3 for a couple of days me thinks over the weekend biggrin.gif
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post #26 of 83
Great pictures! Monsta rad is looking good. Did you put the Apogee PWM on the CPU fan header or the chassis fan?

I noticed that you initially wanted to attach the GPU out-take to the side port, but it's blocked by the PCIe connectors. Seems like an obvious design mistake by XSPC: that port is useless unless you attach a 90 degree fitting, and then you might as well just use one of the ports next to it instead.
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post #27 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Great pictures! Monsta rad is looking good. Did you put the Apogee PWM on the CPU fan header or the chassis fan?
I noticed that you initially wanted to attach the GPU out-take to the side port, but it's blocked by the PCIe connectors. Seems like an obvious design mistake by XSPC: that port is useless unless you attach a 90 degree fitting, and then you might as well just use one of the ports next to it instead.

Thanks for the compliments, I'm really jacked with this build, I'm so glad the single rad turned out to perform well.

I put the pwm on the CPU header and I've had no issues with noise due to the noise foam under the motherboard, I can't even hear the pump with my ear practically on it, its amazing.

Yeah I had issues with the valve block portion of the gpu block due to poor design, I could get power connected but the hose definitely wasn't going on nor the hose clamp so I had to plug it and use another 90 degree up top, I'm just glad I purchased rotary fittings as two 90 degree fittings at the top would have been impossible to install otherwise.

The two corsair sp120s are connected to the chassis fan header using a splitter I purchased at MicroCenter, I chose this configuration as 3 pin fans can only be speed controlled in the chassis fan header for the mini itx asrock z77 board.
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post #28 of 83
I would have the fans blowing out, being that this is an itx case and all. Heat can build up quickly in a little box, and you don't want all the heat going out through the power supply's intake.

But irregardless of the fan orientation, you did a dang good job with this build. I might copy cat you! wink.gif
Edited by Acefire - 8/23/12 at 2:41pm
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post #29 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acefire View Post

I would have the fans blowing out, being that this is an itx case and all. Heat can build up quickly in a little box, and you don't want all the heat going out through the power supply's intake.

Testing by both Lian Li and Silverstone has shown that applying positive pressure by continuously forcing cool air in works better in small cases to lower case temps. Using the PSU as an exhaust gives the whole case a wind-tunnel effect, moving several times the case's air volume every second. There won't be any dead spots where components have time to warm up any air. It's going to be extra effective in this situation with the Apogee heatsink right under the PSU: hardly any amount of heat feedback. Also: radiators can exchange more heat when there is a larger temperature delta. That means cool air intake is superior provided the air is vented immediately, which it is.

I think Xyexz has shown great understanding here and that's why he's managing to cool CPU+GPU just fine with a single 120 rad in a shoebox case.

It's very inspiring thumb.gif
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post #30 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acefire View Post

I would have the fans blowing out, being that this is an itx case and all. Heat can build up quickly in a little box, and you don't want all the heat going out through the power supply's intake.
But irregardless of the fan orientation, you did a dang good job with this build. I might copy cat you! wink.gif

Yeah, ask WiSK mentioned sucking air in has always worked out best for me in SFF builds due to the positive air pressure, my other build (which is my other sig rig ThermalTake Armor A30) I lowered gpu and cpu temps by a whopping 20 degrees by flipping the fans to suck in.

You gotta think to there really isn't any air flowing in on a SFF case so the fans would be sucking hot air out through the rads, which wouldn't really cool it the best.

I appreciate the compliment, copy away biggrin.gif Share your build if you do, everyone always has a different way of doing things that makes communities like this really awesome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Testing by both Lian Li and Silverstone has shown that applying positive pressure by continuously forcing cool air in works better in small cases to lower case temps. Using the PSU as an exhaust gives the whole case a wind-tunnel effect, moving several times the case's air volume every second. There won't be any dead spots where components have time to warm up any air. It's going to be extra effective in this situation with the Apogee heatsink right under the PSU: hardly any amount of heat feedback. Also: radiators can exchange more heat when there is a larger temperature delta. That means cool air intake is superior provided the air is vented immediately, which it is.
I think Xyexz has shown great understanding here and that's why he's managing to cool CPU+GPU just fine with a single 120 rad in a shoebox case.
It's very inspiring thumb.gif

Thanks WiSK, I haven't flipped my PSU to become and exhaust yet, I wanted to see what the system would do with just the extra ventilation out the sides with the modders mesh, my motherboard temps have rose above 35 degrees with an ambient of 23 which I would say is pretty good.

I'm not sure how well the psu flip would go for cable management either, since my 24pin and 8pin are non-modular they would be very close to the gpu block in/out barbs and there may be clearance issues, all in all I'm very happy with the build and the temps.

I've managed to get a steady OC of 4.6 @ 1.34v with temps at mid 70s, during bf3 they hovered around 68c so I really can't complain at all considering these temps and noise performance wouldn't be possible any other way.
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