In April, I bought an NZXT 140mm case fan to go to with my NZXT H2. I didn't want to go with a different brand as this is my second build, and didn't want to get some POS loud fan that was really loud. Well, last week it started rattling really bad, at any speed, except for idle. What do I do to make it quit rattling? I'm about ready to punch a hole where the fan is.
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Anyone else buy a NZXT 140mm fan which now is rattling?
post #2 of 13
8/17/12 at 12:32am
- Blade 117
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Some fans are designed to be mounted certain ways. Different type of sleeve on the fan means it works better at different angles. search the threads on a guide and you will come up with a few good answers
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post #3 of 13
8/17/12 at 9:40am
- chinesethunda
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you might need a different brand, where did you put the fan?
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post #4 of 13
8/17/12 at 1:59pm
- nleksan
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Rifle bearings are a type of sleeve bearing that while much improved can still have some of the same issues.
Try a few drops of light machine oil into the bearing housing, which you gently peel off the sticker to get to (keep the sticker, it must go back on). Then after its run for a few days, you can add a bit of light grease which will be longer lasting.
I have found that the absolute best fluids for fans of all types (sleeve/rifle/ball+sleeve/2ball) is synthetic motor oil, specifically a Group IV or V oil, and more specifically Royal Purple or Redline. I run both oils in my track and street cars (the stuff is truly the absolute best motor oil, redline is, with RP a close second place), so I figured if it can work in a 180hp-per-liter 10.5:1CR BMW I6 engine with a Lysholm twin-Screw Supercharger pushing up to 21psi, it can work in an itty bitty fan
I just grabbed some from the garage, specifically 0W40, and I have 8yr old Thermaltake and Masscool sleeve-bearing fans that are dead-silent to this day, and I actually noticed that after turning off the computer, they spin about twice as long before stopping.
I have used, specifically: Redline 0W30/0W40/ATF4/75W90(gear oil) and Royal Purple 5W30/0W30/5W40 and found that the 0W40 seems to work the best. I have an infrared thermometer and the fan motor hubs even dropped 2-5C, with ball bearing fans showing the biggest drop in temps and biggest noise reduction.
Unlike machine oil, I have done this twice over five years and after the first 3 when I changed it the oil came out looking brand new, no black buildup.
Plus, you can use the rest for your car, the stuff will clean your engine like you won't believe (I did a full teardown of my BMWs engine about 20K miles after having it fully-built and the SC installed, and the engine was not only spotless, there wasn't a single sign of wear anywhere, normally the cams get marked up as do the piston rod arm bearings but nothing; my mechanic/friend actually checked the odometer to make sure it was functioning, and he's the same one who helped with the initial install) - point being, it's seriously good stuff.
Try a few drops of light machine oil into the bearing housing, which you gently peel off the sticker to get to (keep the sticker, it must go back on). Then after its run for a few days, you can add a bit of light grease which will be longer lasting.
I have found that the absolute best fluids for fans of all types (sleeve/rifle/ball+sleeve/2ball) is synthetic motor oil, specifically a Group IV or V oil, and more specifically Royal Purple or Redline. I run both oils in my track and street cars (the stuff is truly the absolute best motor oil, redline is, with RP a close second place), so I figured if it can work in a 180hp-per-liter 10.5:1CR BMW I6 engine with a Lysholm twin-Screw Supercharger pushing up to 21psi, it can work in an itty bitty fan

I just grabbed some from the garage, specifically 0W40, and I have 8yr old Thermaltake and Masscool sleeve-bearing fans that are dead-silent to this day, and I actually noticed that after turning off the computer, they spin about twice as long before stopping.
I have used, specifically: Redline 0W30/0W40/ATF4/75W90(gear oil) and Royal Purple 5W30/0W30/5W40 and found that the 0W40 seems to work the best. I have an infrared thermometer and the fan motor hubs even dropped 2-5C, with ball bearing fans showing the biggest drop in temps and biggest noise reduction.
Unlike machine oil, I have done this twice over five years and after the first 3 when I changed it the oil came out looking brand new, no black buildup.
Plus, you can use the rest for your car, the stuff will clean your engine like you won't believe (I did a full teardown of my BMWs engine about 20K miles after having it fully-built and the SC installed, and the engine was not only spotless, there wasn't a single sign of wear anywhere, normally the cams get marked up as do the piston rod arm bearings but nothing; my mechanic/friend actually checked the odometer to make sure it was functioning, and he's the same one who helped with the initial install) - point being, it's seriously good stuff.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I bought the fan on Newegg and it's mounted up on the top area of the case. The case is an NZXT H2. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146072&Tpk=nzxt%20h2
That's the newegg site for the H2.
http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/classic_series/h2
This is the NZXT H2 website.
The fan that I put in is this one on newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146010
See what you guys think. I like the case because of the all the airflow, but that one fan...I feel like Homer Simpson when he can't get his donuts. Or Adam West on Family Guy with his cat launcher.
That's the newegg site for the H2.
http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/classic_series/h2
This is the NZXT H2 website.
The fan that I put in is this one on newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146010
See what you guys think. I like the case because of the all the airflow, but that one fan...I feel like Homer Simpson when he can't get his donuts. Or Adam West on Family Guy with his cat launcher.

post #6 of 13
8/18/12 at 12:23pm
- ehume
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If you have any sleeve bearing fans left, lubricate them as nleksan says -- but do it before you put them to work, and re-lube them periodically.
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Well, I got some 3-in-1 oil, and it was messy as I'll get at! The stuff comes out fast...I had to dry the fan off before I even thought it was safe to stick it back in the case, let alone start it up again. OK, so I started F@H to test the fan, and it's running smoothly as a 140mm at max. rpms is going to run. I haven't heard any rattling yet. This fan is freaking loud--sounds like someone vacuuming in my room with a small vacuum!
post #8 of 13
8/20/12 at 9:01pm
- ehume
- AirGoesWhere you push it
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3-in-1 oil contains a penetrant. Not good for fans. Top up your fan every few months with some real oil. Motor oil will do. See my sig.
Hotrod Evo
(17 items) |
Daughter's Machine
(15 items) |
| CPU | Motherboard | Graphics | RAM |
|---|---|---|---|
| i7 875k to 4GHz BCLK=133MHz Vcore = Normal+0.03... | Asus P7P55D-E Pro (beware) - multi 9 to 30x | Gigabyte/ATI Radeon HD 4670 w/ 1GB DDR3 | G.Skill Low Profile 4x2GB 9-9-9-24 @ 1600MHz |
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| Power | Case | Mouse | Mouse Pad |
| Seasonic X-650 fully modular 80+ Gold | NZXT Beta Evo, grills gone | Logitech Mouseman Wheel (antique from late 1990's) | Star Trek NG |
| Audio | |||
| really old stuff | |||
| View all | |||
| CPU | Motherboard | Graphics | RAM |
|---|---|---|---|
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| Mouse | Mouse Pad | Audio | |
| Wireless Mouse | WACOM Intuos 3 | generic | |
| View all | |||
Hotrod Evo
(17 items) |
Daughter's Machine
(15 items) |
| CPU | Motherboard | Graphics | RAM |
|---|---|---|---|
| i7 875k to 4GHz BCLK=133MHz Vcore = Normal+0.03... | Asus P7P55D-E Pro (beware) - multi 9 to 30x | Gigabyte/ATI Radeon HD 4670 w/ 1GB DDR3 | G.Skill Low Profile 4x2GB 9-9-9-24 @ 1600MHz |
| Hard Drive | Hard Drive | Hard Drive | Optical Drive |
| Vertex 3 | Crucial C300 128GB | | Barracuda 7200.12 | Plextor 24x DVD PX-880SA |
| Cooling | OS | Monitor | Keyboard |
| Mugen 2 + 2 x San Ace PWM 9S1212P4M011's + PWM ... | Win7 64-bit | Dell 1905FP | Dell PS/2 from 1997 |
| Power | Case | Mouse | Mouse Pad |
| Seasonic X-650 fully modular 80+ Gold | NZXT Beta Evo, grills gone | Logitech Mouseman Wheel (antique from late 1990's) | Star Trek NG |
| Audio | |||
| really old stuff | |||
| View all | |||
| CPU | Motherboard | Graphics | RAM |
|---|---|---|---|
| i7 860 | Gigabyte GA P55M UD2 | ZOTAC/NVidia GTX 650 Ti 2GB | 4x4GB G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3-1333 CAS9 |
| Hard Drive | Optical Drive | Cooling | OS |
| Samsung 1TB Spinpoint F3 7200.12 | Plextor 24x DVD burner | Cooler Master Hyper Z600R | Win7 64-bit |
| Monitor | Keyboard | Power | Case |
| Dell E207WFP 20-inch flat panel | Logitech Wireless 510 | Seasonic X-650 fully modular 80+ Gold | Lian Li PC-7FN |
| Mouse | Mouse Pad | Audio | |
| Wireless Mouse | WACOM Intuos 3 | generic | |
| View all | |||
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