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STH10 Water Loop Plan V2 (need feedback)

post #1 of 96
Thread Starter 
EDIT: NEW V2 LOOP PLAN:



Original Post:


Here is my first stab at a water loop plan for the STH10 I plan on buying soon:



The Maelstrom Res is just a place holder res as I have not decided on one yet. I was thinking of just getting the Maelstrom Res though as I could order the STH10's dual bay short anti vibration mounts. Perfect for a clean look and the pump vibrations will be isolated. The reason you need a blank bay just under the dual bay Maelstrom Res is to make room for the MCP35X2 Heatsink and a 80mm fan.

All fans/rads are 120mm and I plan on using dual 120.4 Black Ice SR1 Rads. 7 intakes counting the 3 bottom mid case fans (which do draw in air from the lower right vented compartment on the PSU side), one rear exhaust, 8 rad exhausts. 3 more fans between the mid and upper compartments to facilitate air flow to those two rads. I wanted positive pressure, however there was no good way to do it. But I did design it so the HDs are in the bottom along with the AX1200i PSU, to eliminate mobo airflow obstructions. This is a 19 GT AP-15 fan plan biggrin.gif

This loop will cool an overclocked delided 3770K (Swiftech Apogee HD) and overclocked voltage controled dual MSI 680 Lightnings (dual Aqua Computer full card blocks)

What do you guys think smile.gif
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/19/12 at 11:40am
    
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post #2 of 96


Remove the 6fans between compartments.
Make the rads blow air from outside to inside.
Make the top cover ventilated instead of solid so that the hot air from rads can escape there.

All 3 compartments now have positive air.
The radiators don't have to suck hot air from inside the case anymore.
6 fans less is less noise and less wires.

If you wish some direct airflow over the motherboard you can use mac-114 or mac-115



You can also avoid a sharp 180° bend at the bottom if you install gpu's in parallel.



Hope I stirred up some new imagination smile.gif
post #3 of 96
Thread Starter 
Interesting. I never thought of using the vented top like that. Is this what most STH10 users do? I like the positive pressure and less fans!!

Though I am not sure what you mean with the GPUs yet. I assume you can configure the waterblocks somehow. I had planned on getting the Aqua Computer SLI adapter. That "S" and "P" drawing did not help me understand anything sadsmiley.gif
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/18/12 at 8:32am
    
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post #4 of 96
I think the loop would be easier to design if you had one of your rads in the top compartment and one in the bottom. This way you Can have Res>Pump>Rad>CPU> rad> GPU>Res.
I actually had a similar plan for my Th10, but decided to, instead of of two 680's, get one 690, to limit the restriction added by the extra block.

also I don't believe the STH10 comes with 480 mounts by default.
It supports 560 rads in those top compartments
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post #5 of 96
Thread Starter 
EDIT
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/18/12 at 9:09am
    
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post #6 of 96
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo Zuko View Post

Well, I thought of doing a single rad a compartment, however it seems I would have a harder time in other areas of my design, some of which is mod/art related. I will think on it, perhaps play with the parts when I see them in person. Actually, the loop would be longer that way, not sure what you mean by easier per say unless you are talking about angles of the tubing or airflow. It seems to me like dual rads just use the space better.
Already have the one 680, the plan is to use that for now as it is plenty for current 27" gaming, upgrade to a second later when the card is a bit cheaper (or if I catch a sale) for a bit of future proofing power.
The STH10 can only do up to two side mounted 120.4 rads in the top compartment (plus in addition to that, one 140.4 with the extension top and an adapter bracket - the rad is flat mounted exhausting up. Not sure if you can use that adapter without the extended top or not) as the height is shorter than the bottom compartment which can do dual 140.4 rads (really only one rad, as you need room for the bottom mounted PSU, which I will not have anywhere else - and even then, you will block a part of the rad with the PSU. That is why I like the HD cage down there, frees up the mid compartment's airflow and uses the bottom compartment's space better).
You are against having a top mounted PSU?
Quote:
Max Radiator Size – Upper Chamber Side: 120.4 (Mounts not included)
Max Radiator Size – Upper Chamber Top: 140.4 or 180.3 (Mount not included)
Max Radiator Size – Lower Chamber Side: 140.4 (Mounts not Included)

I know the layout of the case, I was really trying to point out that the mounts aren't included

The reason I suggested having the rads on separate sides (top and bottom) was because I personally don't like having all the blocks before a single radiator is flown through.. I know they say loop order doesn't matter besides res>pump, but I don't like the idea.
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post #7 of 96
Thread Starter 
Sorry, i'm in edit mode. give me a second. unquote me if you can, I'll get my thoughts together.
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/18/12 at 9:18am
    
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post #8 of 96
I'm going to disagree with you Forrester since loop order doesn't matter anymore. Only important rule that remains is to place the pump after the reservoir (only important if the reservoir has any air in it).
For instance when people stress test serial gpu vs parallel gpu you see that when using serial, the 2nd gpu's temperature is 0°C to 2°C higher than the first one. That's how little temperature blocks add these days.

Loop order used to be important in 'the old days' when we used weak pumps and overclocks were heat limited.
GPU's have been overclock limited by the hardware for a long time allready. And now cpu's have also reached the fab size where the architecture is the limit and not the temperature anymore.
Pentium4 you could get a 100% higher overclock going from watercooling to phase change. Today on i7 you see 20%-25% higher overclock from water to ln². High end air cooling and prefab water systems like Corsair Hxxx are today very close to reaching the same overclocks as custom water cooling. So imo watercooling has become more focused on silence instead of purely performance.



What I meant was this Neo Zuko

It will prevent you from having to use a 180° bend at the bottom gpu to go back up. The mcp35x2 is more than strong enough to still have enough flow with 2 parallel linked gpu blocks. (when using parallel flows and a weak pump, it has been noticed that in some full cover blocks there are 'dead pockets' which receive very few flow)

My drawing is a side view of tubing in Serial setup and Parallel setup smile.gif
post #9 of 96
Thread Starter 
OK, now I am ready. A few thoughts:

1. I want to avoid using 140mm rads. My fans are 120mm and I don't want to use adapters.

2. Since I have that extra long AX1200i PSU I want to avoid partly blocking a rad's air flow. Same deal with a HD cage, which I'd like to keep out of the mobo compartment for air restriction and cosmetic reasons. I want the PSU in the bottom for sure for several wiring reasons. I could do dual 120.3 rads with a PSU all in the lower compartment, but using anything less than a 4x rad in this case would be a shame!! Dual 120.4 rads in the upper compartment works nice IMHO, keeps it symmetrical. Uses the available space better. I'm trying to keep some panels solid to use for artistic mods.

3. Like you said, loop order does not matter except for the Res/Pump thing. I read the water moves fast enough to be within a degree or two from the hot to cold parts of a loop.

4. I already have a MSI 680 Lightning, the second one I will catch on sale sometime for future proofing. I'm buying both water blocks now though. Really, one card is plenty for 27" gaming. However, this is more of a long term system, I'm not going to upgrade the waterblocks every time like. And I'd like them to match. So eventual dual card SLI seems like a plan. One 680 at a time is a wallet buster as it is, can't do those dual GPU cards!! I think I am ok on restriction as I am using a MCP35X2 to water cool just the CPU and GPUs. No silly RAM, HD, or Mobo cooling here!!
    
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post #10 of 96
Almost forgot an extra hint.

If you go parallel, you can install on one of the bottom ports a valve like this

This will make draining the loop very easy.
1- Take out plug from the reservoir so the loop can pressurise with air
2- Turn the valve open
3- Loop will run almost completely empty in 30seconds
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Overclock.net › Forums › Hardware Vendors › Case Labs › STH10 Water Loop Plan V2 (need feedback)