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STH10 Water Loop Plan V2 (need feedback) - Page 6

post #51 of 96
Thread Starter 
Aqua Computer Aquaero 5 looks neat, I'll consider it again.
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/23/12 at 9:52pm
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post #52 of 96
Thread Starter 
OK, I like what I read on the Aqua Computer Aquaero 5 System. I'll go with that setup. Perhaps the Aquatube res too. I'll just need to figure out the complicated parts list for that family of products. It's really really complicated.
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post #53 of 96
Thread Starter 
Two things,

One, I need help understanding which Aqua Computer Aquerous 5 extras to buy, which are useful, which are not.

Two, although I ordered the Black Ice SR1 480 rads (I was going for silence), two of them to go in the attic, I was thinking of adding a Black Ice 560 GTX for the basement, I would keep it in the loop, but not turn on the fans to "Fully Operational Battle Station" speeds unless I needed the cooling power and would not mind the noise at that time (like overclocking or gaming with headphones). Like a hybrid rad system. Use the SR1s most of the time, turn on the fans for the GTX when I want Death Star Power. Best of both worlds. The only question is, would that work, or would not running the fans below at times not balance out to the top rads when I only want to run the SR1s for silence??

Personally, I think it is a great idea!! Has anyone done this??
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/24/12 at 12:17am
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post #54 of 96
2 120.4 will allready cool to the point where overclocks will be limited by the architecture. Decreasing the loop by 1° might increase a few MHz and it'll increase performance by 0FPS (rounded).
Adding a huge 140.4 at the bottom will decrease performance because of extra loop length and added restriction. The only way to negate that performance loss is by actively using the rad and the GTX rads need loud fans.

Also don't forget the hardware you're using. 3770k 24/7 limits can be reached with high end air coolers or $100 closed loop wc units, same for gtx680. For you the use of watercooling is to add silence to your build because purely performance you could do a lot cheaper with aircooling. If you want real extra performance, go x79 instead of more rads.

Don't let companies or other people trick you into buying equipment that does supurb in isolated benchmarks but when you pay your money and use the product in your own environment, doesn't do a damn thing for you.
On forums like these it's easy to lose sight of what is a gadget and what is a tool because most people are misguided themselves or are being sponsored.
post #55 of 96
Thread Starter 
I see, so stick to the dual 120.4s with thin rad spacing for silence and performance caps, but I assume you also mean temp caps as well. Like there would be no temp improvement? Guess it is easy to get carried away with rads. Me, I never built a water cooled PC before, so I have no idea really, I just watch reactions to my posts and make adjustments to my plan.

I don't see the point of X79 myself. But I admit to not knowing it as well. It seems like it is behind if anything. More cores I don't need, more RAM slots I don't need, more PCI lanes I don't need, more money. Less perks like Native USB 3 or PCI 3.0 I think. Not sure. About the only thing I could come up with is the CPUs use fluxless solder. But I will be successful in my deliding, and then I will have better than fluxless solder liquid metal connections.

Can anyone tell me why X79 might be better? What does it overclock better or something?

Edit: why didn't anyone tell me the built in 15mm shroud on these SR1s are one sided? Not a dealbreaker, but hey, I wish I knew ahead of time! This really limits your push/pull options. To use the shroud, which sacrifices core rad fin space (so it would be a shame to not use it), you have to have the fans on the outside wall of the case, due to the inlets/outlets positioning. So I guess I know which way my fans are going. Hmmmm.

See here:

http://skinneelabs.com/hwlabs-sr1-360/5/

I had to get that nervous double check out of my system, but I am happy to have the SR-1s on the way now.
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/24/12 at 2:04am
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post #56 of 96
x79 advantages depend on what you need. More pcie lanes, more memory, better cpu's, more full option motherboards. It's for a select market off course. For gaming there is no difference between a 3930k, 3820, 3770k or 2600k.


Let's take the 3770k. It doesn't matter if you run it at 4.5GHz 1.2v 40°C or 4.5GHz 1.2v 50°C. In theory the first one has more headroom to increase volt and use that headroom to get a higher frequency. But the problem with IB (any die size decreasing in general) is that it doesn't allow much volt to be added at all.
A NH-D14 allows almost the same overclock on a 3770k as a $1000, $2000 or $3000 custom watercooling build.
Watercooling will however give you the option of cooler temps, less noise, more flexibility and more fun to build it.

Especially since it's your first build I would advice something easy to start with. Something you can learn experience with without overdoing it yet. You have a case that can expand to your needs and a custom loop which can also expand as you need it. Those are better chooses than most beginning watercoolers make.
Cooling still isn't silent enough? Add a rad
A normal fan controller doesn't allow enough control and you want to set up complete automation? Add an aquaero
You start switching a lot of hardware? Add qd's
The beauty of designing a modular system is that you can start minimal and add more power as you need it. Modular systems are more expensive but we aren't stuck with the same thing for 3years.
post #57 of 96
StijnDP is right with your system and an average OC it will run nice and cool that said restriction is one of the most over stated things in WC imo rad in general have really low restriction, You could probably added 4 rads if you wanted and have a flow still over 1.3gpm.... (0.8-1.4gpm is recommended)

Sorry I'm a tad confused by the Question above.....

But AQ5 accessories that are useful
1. The Water Block - Double load before the AC5 over heats and auto throttles (this will bring all fans to full speed) its also a lot cheaper than getting a PA2 martinsliquidlab had the best review this should give you an idea LINK - WELL worth look over this site if you have not seen it as its one of the best WC info sites out there
- I run 10 GT fans undervolted as well as a ddc-1 pump and a flow connector of one AQ5 lt w/ WB I get temps about 20deg above ambient air temps. So on a 20deg day 40deg I believe it throttles at 90deg so I could have added a lot more to each AQ5.
2. Fan Splinters well getting a few 4x fan splitters is great means you can run a whole rad of one AQ5 fan power head Phobia make some which are good because the still have the rpm sensors of course you could just make your self and i'm sure other brands make them.

3. Water Temp sensor for res these are cheap and well worth getting you may also want a few air temp sensors but the AQ5 come with some any way.

4. mcp35X power/controller splitter - you could run these straight of the AQ5 but i would recommend just getting a power - sensor/controller splitter think this may come with the mcp35X any way but check it will just mean that you can control the pumps via your AQ5 and not have to have 24W of load on the AQ5 the whole time.

AQ5 accessories that you may want but really are not needed! wink.gif

1. Flow meter - I like having a flow meter makes knowing how much to turning pumps down easy since you know the flow rate just remember to calibrate it (just have to type in a number according to tubing size thats all)

2. PSU auto shut down connector - means if your pump stops you AQ5 will automatically turn your PC of I have one of these and never installed it since i was over sleeving lol - I also believe you can set it up with a water level sencer but I really would not bother, but i get why some people might want this in there setup. This may only work with AC pumps now that I think about it….. so I would check that before you buy it.

3. They have a hundred and one things you could use but I think i listed all the goodies. Imo PA2 are Not worth it since you can get a AQ5 lt for $20 more with 3 time the load capacity and with tons of options! GL

(man feel like a sales rep after that rant lets talk about rads lol since I’m not an AC rad fan lol rolleyes.gif )
    
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post #58 of 96
Thread Starter 
Wow thanks for all the help. Guess I have to water cool that fan controller. I'm a bit surprised that it benefits at all from water for sure. I may be a water noob, but as you can tell, I put a lot of effort into the learning process. I think my understanding of the parts list has grown quite a bit. Hard to believe two months ago I was going to get a H80 and FT02. What a laugh now. Case Labs/Swiftech/Black Ice absolutely kills, just kills what I was originally going to do. However, it has also killed my wallet. But in a good way.
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post #59 of 96
AquaComputer have released a whole bunch of new products recently.

New reservoirs with built in temp/pressure sensors so you can mmonitor the fill level etc... new seperate flow/pressure sensors, there are lots of other bits also but not many have reached us yet so there is not much feedback available.

Once you start using the AC stuff you may become hooked, gererally (less a few issues bolting their controllers together) the kit is of very good quality and their software although still in Beta is second to none, there is nothing else out there that gives you the control and monitoring you have with it.

As 4514kaiser mentions, I would defo go with a flow meter, one of the new ones they have just released. The PSU auto shut down is not really required as in the software you can set alarms to send keyboard commands to either sleep or shutdown the PC using flow rate, temps etc.... and most MB's will shut down anyway if a critical temp is reached. If you are planning on lots of lights you may want to look at the MultiSwitch, this can either be controlled with the software or front panel buttons (there is a buttonless internal one available) as well as being able to write scripts to turn turn the lights on/off/dim/brighten so you can put on a complete light show if this is your thing! Oh and grab the RGB LED (connects to a header on the Aquaero units), I use this as a visual on my case, easily setup to change colour (full RGB) with any temp you choose.
post #60 of 96
Thread Starter 
I really want that Aqua Computer flagship reservoir, but I can't find anywhere in the USA to order it. I might have to import that puppy.

Also, I was going to get the case in black, but the center compartment white inside, and get the white topped Apogee HD and MCP35X2. Something semi different. I only know of the one build that did this.
Edited by Neo Zuko - 8/24/12 at 4:00am
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