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[Build Log] CaseLabs STH10 - Aquacomputer EVGA - "Seanimus448" - Page 23

post #221 of 1388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanimus View Post

Thanks.
Who sells this product in the US:
Illumination-insert G1/4 incl. gasket
Need to insert RGB Leds into the base for Aqualis and realized I need a G 1/4 adapter/gasket.
Or if something else can work.
FrozenCPU sells something similar.
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post #222 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by superericla View Post

FrozenCPU sells something similar.
Closest thing was Alphacool Plexi G1/4" Lighting Module Holder with O-Ring . Hopefully it works.

Decided to finish the acrylic base while new top 0.125" arrives. Also figured I will go flush with back of case. Which means redoing hole cut outs for PSU power.
8109290133_84451073fd_z.jpg

Drilled holes for jigsaw;
8109297226_3cf760e201_z.jpg

Man that dremmel saw blade needs to be replaced. Caused so much friction, the heat started to cause the acrylic to warp.
8109285773_2c1aef00b3_z.jpg

Still needs work:
8109284251_5f78909d42_z.jpg

Attached fans to radiator..all this to get the correct place to get a hole in the base of the STH10.
8109282573_afb6c995d8_z.jpg

Planning to have final drain valve as Koolance Ball Valve . Going to be a bit bulky under the sth10. But I think I have room with the caster wheels on..no?

Putting the radiators in is a bit tricky on STH10. But I now I see I have room to add another set of fans for first radiator (right). And the I can use the copper brown sleeve which I forgot to use last time!!
8109288082_92f6f8ba92_z.jpg

8109278219_cc668b6f97_z.jpg

Seeing how long of an extender i need to get before I can put a 90 and then the drain valve. The drain valve will be on either side of the case .
8109276649_b2984da011_z.jpg

Flipped case over to take measurements again:
8109275195_aec5ae693a_z.jpg

Good thing in STH10 you dont have to dismantle the whole thing and its just this plate:
8109274033_a120e586df_z.jpg

Center holes for both radiator out ports at 4 1/8" fronm front and 1.5" from side
8109271283_c43240acc0_z.jpg

1" hole should be good:
8109273576_d9dea4ef90_z.jpg

This hole saw is only wood and pvc....Damn...have to stop and go to home depot:
8109264065_a504bb0cbd_z.jpg

Will also get replacement blade for dremmel saw max. So beat up so fast:
8109262495_436dab20e3_z.jpg

Will post again after I get the blades from homedepot. If anyone sees issues with the Koolance Ball Valve..or has another suggestion let me know.
post #223 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Was in a rush and took my wife's key for my BMW; and realized my reverse camera has angles drawn out ....hah didn't even ...now have to set my profile for this:
8109997785_ac52791d5c_z.jpg

Returned and left car outside. Since so many like BMW's here's a front shot. Damn neighbour already started putting halloween stuff up...
8109996121_f281984b6b_z.jpg

Home depot said the part I had would work on metal regardless of what it said on cover. As they make only one type..
8109994857_7d21bae909_z.jpg

8109993143_b6fc0ddc76_z.jpg

Got few PM's on how to install Aqualis/open on to Adaptor..So step by step here. This is my second time, so I know what I did wrong first time.
Left Aqualis, center AQ D5 Adaptor (no case, but who cares), and right AQ D5 Pump: Front right are the yellow AQ pump installs...Can I use these on vertical installs??
8110001768_cb6ecac3b2_z.jpg

After package is opened, just need pump metal brace and ring, 4 M3x12 mm screws ( i think), the manual MPS G1/4 . Leave rest in bag
8110000244_f215698dfe_z.jpg

The aqualis manual is in the reservoir. Duh. So take glass part with top and turn counter clockwise, while holding base:
8109988431_b6eba4080e_z.jpg

Take top G1/4 off center tube and place on left hole off adaptor (if you want to reuse). Also attach the aqualis to top part of Adaptor now. You don't want to attach with glass on, otherwise your turns with Allen key will take a long time:
8109997164_f129135296_z.jpg

Insert the ring on pump and place while flat:
8109995398_d30c667d65_z.jpg

Tighten till the brace for pump goes all the down.
8109993778_895d9577fc_z.jpg

Place the ring in the Aqualis to top part of aqualis, and press down with the glass tube:
8109992280_d6dbd47db5_z.jpg

Turn the Aqualis clockwise till its tight. Place the manual MPS pressure release on top of Aqualis in the G1/4
Trying these non-vibration AQ bolts here :
8109980487_fac8d8127e_z.jpg

Left is with rubber pads from Aqualis and right is with separate order:
8109988902_6a6dae8f89_z.jpg

That metal brace to attach to the case is fugly and big.

1) Anyone know if I can attach the pump/adaptor/aqualis directly to the case and by pass that metal bracket. If yes, will those yellow anti-vibration hold the weight.?
2) Which is better for my layout: Koolance Balve Valve or Phobya Valve . Looks like Phobya might be better with the turning that valve (lower profile). Koolance may need another cutout in the bottom of case to turn that "valve".
3) Is there a Male G1/4 to Female G1/4 Extender 10mm?
Edited by Seanimus - 10/21/12 at 1:47pm
post #224 of 1388
Why not looking at bitspower valve?smile.gif
Bitspower Valve
Been using it and it works well
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post #225 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Why not looking at bitspower valve?smile.gif
Bitspower Valve
Been using it and it works well
Ahh; didn't even see that one...Bitspower it is then...Thanks.

By the way I cannot place these big reservoirs side of side vertical to motherboard. Following layout (older picture) would be optimal, but its not possible, because a) the brackets will not fit in 7" and b) even if i could squeeze it in and mount on STH10 Vertical fan mount; there would be no room to get the connections for USB etc out.
8064926894_c29e718c31_z.jpg


Option 1:
8110611349_459280a2f1_z.jpg
Would have return from one of the components going over the glass of right side..

So Option 2:
Graphics card could go the right one here, and CPU to left one.
8110609775_c6bea59646_z.jpg

Both options means vertical stand for STH10 with fan would not be possible as below (old picture). even if i move it to left.
8007915455_f860c975ed_z.jpg

Placing a fan horizontally nd cutting it out 4.5" inch hole..not possible. Good I can return the $40 cut out hole-saw.
8110615616_048b43573b_z.jpg

The reservoir clips at top of glass; right one in 3 pictures above is a bit lose as its not aligned; because below you can see yellow decoupling mounts a bit wider. I guess if I still want to use them I could put some rubber washers below the Black Clip...
8110612890_5504aa4eb1_z.jpg
Edited by Seanimus - 10/21/12 at 4:57pm
post #226 of 1388
Lots of Porn from Germany i see.
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post #227 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Measuring to make holes to mount reservoir.
Drew outline of holder first:
8115785217_78d12608ae_z.jpg

Going to MDPC M3 bolts x10mm (left) instead of supplied bolts (right). The titanium drill bit there is perfect for M3. it screws in nice and tight, and dont even need a nut at the back.
8115784363_74c76d9fc6_z.jpg

Can't stress how important it is to keep measuring and making sure its right. Because if you screw this, not much options on fixing. So red dot on left hole is the adjusted one from the black one.
8115783189_a872ba5336_z.jpg

You can go wrong vertically for the bottom ones:
8115782285_224160748d_z.jpg

Make sure it approximately leveled. There is room to adjust with Res Holder clips.
8115781373_7d028b7db1_z.jpg


Res holder screws for left and right are M4's I think.
The center one, the hole should be big enough for your smallest philips screw driver to go through.
8115786048_e47d6776ab_z.jpg

One done, next one follows:
8115783066_dc167ba54e_z.jpg

8115772707_01caa2f8c3_z.jpg

Incase anyone wants the measurements in cms. Shot with the 3 size drill bits used. Get the Dewalt Titatanium case ...if you are unsure if you have right sizes or not.
8115780334_458466876c_z.jpg
Edited by Seanimus - 10/23/12 at 3:12pm
post #228 of 1388
Seanimus, what are those things attached to your pumps?
post #229 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

Seanimus, what are those things attached to your pumps?

Not sure which side you were refferring to, so just giving the whole unit parts:
In this picture,
  • Underside of the D5 Pump where the wire comes out is the USB/Aquabus etc control set.
  • Bottom of the pump is the Bracket which will get bolted on white panel below it..
  • The bracket comes with the Aqualis D5 pump adaptor (which I got last week- 2 month delay)
  • The D5 Pump Adaptor is the unit with word Aqualis written on it
  • To the right of the D5 Pump Adaptor is the Aquabus, USB
  • To the top of the D5 Pump Adaptor is the Aqualis Reservoir.
  • At the top of the Aqualis Reservoir is the Reservoir Holder (clip.

8110609775_c6bea59646_z.jpg
Edited by Seanimus - 10/25/12 at 7:00pm
post #230 of 1388
Thread Starter 
As previous few posts, all shots are in the garage..
Placed level:
8121757364_4f61fdf613_z.jpg

Found out last evening that res is off:
8121756586_72f731e937_z.jpg

With both on, you can tell from far:
8121754090_fa8b6f7c86_z.jpg

Right one had to move more towards the left (2mm at top)...it was the Reservoir clip at top that was doing this:
8121737319_91d4e65425_z.jpg

Left one had to move more towards the right (1mm at top).. again it was the Reservoir clip at top that was doing this:
8121752164_7d7af7aa66_z.jpg

****

8123800421_2cffc32731_z.jpg

Fixed that ****:this evening:
8123799459_dabdc7aece_z.jpg

Lost like an hour everytime dismantling everything and putting it back together:

Poor shot in garage...but atleast its fixed 4 hrs later:
8123816208_85a483d899_z.jpg

Was trying the AQ RGB leds in:
8123809405_8d9c8992a3_z.jpg

Found one of them to be bad:
8123808371_315279ec99_z.jpg

Filled some water to check no leaks....as I had doubts. The top part of the Aqualis D5 Pump Adaptor was out a bit (you can see in the photograph)
. But it didn't leak...hmmm
8123805253_6d21f88110_z.jpg

with trial and error found out that you can use an allen key with the right size to screw the plexi alphacool led holder further in.
It will take a while to get the allen key out again...
8123804315_6e4bf11f0b_z.jpg

But when you do, and without sleeving:
8123803353_eaca3e9600_z.jpg

Two sets of RGB wires come out of the D5 Pump adaptor ...I don't want to run them down again through the regular STH10 hole.
8123801307_d6715d0a45_z.jpg

At same time, don't want all the cabling to go to AQ5 Pro in front of case...

So at the markings making 3 sets of cutouts. a) for screw adjustment on the AQ5 5.25 bay and (b) for the wires to come through
The middle 5.25 is for vandal switches (3 of them). So AQ5 Pro1, Bay for 3xVandal switches and AQ5 Pro 2.
8123815182_78a5df7a9e_z.jpg

For each pump, res unit two cutouts 1) 1" below for power, usb, aq bus etc. 2) 0.5" above for 2xRGB
8123814000_22da041f96_z.jpg

And **** again...realized if the lightbox is 1.5" tall (currently 0.75" shown with right side (one part that redid 2 nights ago), I will not have enough spacing for wires coming out of the left res-pump-adaptor set in picture above. (damn...have to rethink layout without raising the unit).
Edited by Seanimus - 10/25/12 at 8:16pm
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