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[Build Log] CaseLabs STH10 - Aquacomputer EVGA - "Seanimus448" - Page 75

post #741 of 1388
Oh OK cause all I work on for my cases is 1/2 inch acrylic
 
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post #742 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Thanks for sharing thoughts seros and modnoob

Was doing new lightbox..battery on t4i died,...had to use iphone.

This time I remembered to remove the tape before bending...otherwise its a pain to remove in small groove.

14x2 " is the acrylic:


Original slightbox...inserted the acrylic with LED Strip on 3 sides ..haha...back shot with mirror acrylic:


Top shot...transferred hole markings to top acrylic..


Nice, i can see the SMD through 7" of transparent acrylic on the side..


Slightbox all cut out...made a minor mistake on top right..Max Saw went too far on reverse...(yes I went reverse after 4 inches of jigsaw,)
which I will have to fix. Used JigSaw on all 4 sides for like 4 inches, then used Dremel Saw Max went forward, lined it up, and went reverse over the jigsawed part.





Just wanted to show the flow meter would not fit in between radiators..


Received Jeak's RGB Amps for Aquaero 5.

Edited by Seanimus - 1/5/13 at 8:40pm
post #743 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Someone was asking me why I did not do the whole partition as the SLightbox. Mine is like 22.25" long.
I guess you can go 23" and still have room for future short 5.25 bay.
If you go longer than 23" forget about the short bay in the future.
If you go longer than 24" it will not be possible to remove fan or other 5.25 devices from Front; which are immediately above or below the SLIghtbox.


This is with the door cover .


When closed, you cannot see the gap from side and little bit to the left. Which is closer to how it will be finally setup in my house.


New black monsoon's arrived.


Black Matte Fusion Krylon for plastics on Tamiya and one flat cable holder:
post #744 of 1388
Nice update. Let me know how the Mini tamiya connectors do with the new paint. I have mine installed and working great with all the 12v connections it can which is 4. Would like to paint them matte black like you did if it holds up.

Also whats up with the "Jeak's RGB Amps for Aquaero 5" what are they?? My guess would be so you can run more than 1 amp of LEDS on the RGB header from the aquaero. What are they rated for??
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post #745 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodtobeking View Post

Nice update. Let me know how the Mini tamiya connectors do with the new paint. I have mine installed and working great with all the 12v connections it can which is 4. Would like to paint them matte black like you did if it holds up.
Also whats up with the "Jeak's RGB Amps for Aquaero 5" what are they?? My guess would be so you can run more than 1 amp of LEDS on the RGB header from the aquaero. What are they rated for??
Fusion on Tamiya is holding up good..Less than 24 hours and tried one..looks fine.

Got the RGB Amp because Shoggy told me to get that for my rig...as I wanted to have AQ5 control multiple RGB's. Secondly I believe the AMP converts Cathode based to Anode RGB. which means i can probably even connect a RGB Strip (but that would be pushing it.
I don't know what load it can handle...but I believe Jeak said a lot..much more than I can have in my rig...100 per output ..maybe.
10x more than what I would need from a single output and it has 3 outputs.

Bondo the mistake on big slightbox. and cover up corners a bit.



Cut the small slightbox. I did a silly mistake and used rubber mallet while bending and found out the whole thing was like 1/16" to tight. Took a regular homedepot 0.5" channel and hammered it into the grooves of the slightbox...to regain my 1/16". Otherwise another 4 hours worth of work making new 14" slightbox.




No mirror at back on this one.


The 14" Slightbox will in between reservoir and motherboard vertically...and will be away from the Mobo wall, by like 0.5" to give it room for the mobo cable to come through (and sata).
Well atleast that's the plan,.
Since no mirror at the back...the light will also go through the big oval cutout to behind the mobo wall.

Forgot to use the finger and flatten it...its already hard in 5 mins...


Put Aluminium primer on the 22" Slightbox.
post #746 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Deleted picture of bondo, accidently...here is a repost.
And sanded down 14" Slightbox:

Not going to apply another layer of bondo on this side..too lazy..for something that will not be seen.


Priming that now..

Was thinking copper brown for 22" horizontal one and maroon for 14" vertical one.
post #747 of 1388
Hey, wanna say sweet build! thumb.gif. and a friendly advice, that bondo will crack over time, any vibration or flex will crack it. Have you look into your local welding shop to have them weld up the alumm?
    
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post #748 of 1388
Great Job! thumb.gif
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post #749 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbobnl View Post

Hey, wanna say sweet build! thumb.gif. and a friendly advice, that bondo will crack over time, any vibration or flex will crack it. Have you look into your local welding shop to have them weld up the alumm?
Thanks. I don't need bondo, or jb weld or welding...The aluminium is not going to move...the whole thing is a single piece. I need like a hammer to move that currently.
The bondo is there only as something that can be sanded and painted over.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragsters View Post

Great Job! thumb.gif
Thanks.
post #750 of 1388
Looking real sexy Seanimus! thumb.gif I really like what you are doing with that light box, should highlight your case nicely.
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