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[Build Log] CaseLabs STH10 - Aquacomputer EVGA - "Seanimus448" - Page 90

post #891 of 1388
Long time since I posted, but now I have something to suggest, so here we go: why not make a combined faceplate for those three 5.25" devices? Would look much cleaner, I think...
post #892 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutman View Post

Long time since I posted, but now I have something to suggest, so here we go: why not make a combined faceplate for those three 5.25" devices? Would look much cleaner, I think...
Now thats a great idea.
post #893 of 1388
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post #894 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Have not put gloss or matte finish on top cover. Will check out some car body shops to see if I can get it to match the color closely.
The places where I put the PEM. The paint job there did not come out good. The bondo had to sanded down more and finer...and probably needed another layer on it. Maybe I am using the wrong version of Bondo.



The clip that I saw Brandon using..


Dreading the next part of working on Vandal back wiring...
Have to cut the molex pins...(1) run 12V + and - to first Vandal LED, (2) use same + for NO pin on vandal; (3) run C pin on Vandal and - from LED to the device that I want to control...will place a Tamiya connector here.
Repeat again for second Vandal...and then lastly for PWM fans.
Have to make all that fit in there....sheesh.
post #895 of 1388
Yeah I have a bunch of wires coming out of my Aquaero LT, couldnt imagine trying to wire two of them up and keeping as clean as you are.
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post #896 of 1388
Thread Starter 
By the way you need pololu crimper for USB pins. Otherwise mdpc is fine for rest
post #897 of 1388
Just wanted to throw in here that if you plan on using the relay on the AQ5 to shut the system down on alarm condition you might want to go ahead and make provisions for that before final assembly.
I decided that for me wiring the relay across the switch was easiest, and I powered the AQ5 in standby with +5VSB & ground split off from the 24 pin.

Don't remember if you brought this up before, too many build logs to remember everything.
post #898 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Just wanted to throw in here that if you plan on using the relay on the AQ5 to shut the system down on alarm condition you might want to go ahead and make provisions for that before final assembly.
I decided that for me wiring the relay across the switch was easiest, and I powered the AQ5 in standby with +5VSB & ground split off from the 24 pin.
Don't remember if you brought this up before, too many build logs to remember everything.
Did not have any plans of Alarm and Shutdown; in original design. Let me know the which post which details wiring...

lot of work...did half so far..




Have to glue the RGB when done with:

Lots of wires; atleast 20+ will go through right clip:

Power for top PWM fans; I am just going to solder...instead of Tamiya.

Decided to expand design, and go second set of PWM fans...for future expansion:
post #899 of 1388
Thread Starter 
Lost track of how many wires are going in and out, of these 3 bays...Wild guess but should be around 100+ (individual wires) when its done. I have consolidated multiple 26AWG outside and to the side of the bay to make this easier.
And consolidated 18AWG + and - into single sleeve. Otherwise nothing is gonig to fit.

6 +ve PWM wires going to single 18AWG:
8483424611_395daced32_b.jpg
Same for -ve, and put both +ve and -ve into single black sleeve:
8484515664_1ec87a91ca_b.jpg

Other end drawing power is here with black sleeve:
8484517314_cd41a32d5c_b.jpg

Red and Brown power for each of the White SLightboxes; both of which terminate with Mini-tamiya connector:
8483423717_3bde9f1d2b_b.jpg

Angled shot:
8484516574_f37732796a_b.jpg

Top shot...other than pwm wire going to AQ5's...rest on right will go through PClip:
8483424383_dabf25a8ef_b.jpg

Which will get mounted on the M3 in front of the 10mm Standoff:
8483423717_3bde9f1d2b_b.jpg

Extending RGB cable to go straight to RGB Amp. Initially thought I will do female 4 pin connector..but need to reduce connectors in build, when not necessary for dismantling:
8484515954_a1dbd14ab9_b.jpg

Doing RGB for other one next and then USB....Not doing Aquabus tonight...that will take a long time.
post #900 of 1388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanimus View Post

Just some minor update for the way the paint cured overnight:
There is masking tape behind the middle plate...because I polished it.
Leaving front blending this way; enough fooling around. Put clear coat gloss on it and its drying at the moment. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Here's a shot of the back ...its all polished...Couldn't get something nice to show that its polished well...Can see the the RGB colors in the reflection; but doesn't show well in photo.
This eliminates the need for me to have a chrome paint here...and will go nicely on top of the acrylic...without it ever sticking in the future.
This is to get the RGB led to start reflecting more and sending the light outwards and back.
Took a while to get it shiny. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The top color of white is off from STH10. Had to go manual mode on camera to get this shot...
Its obvious with the eye. Giving it another coat of white paint and will see tomorrow on how big a difference it is than the white on STH10.
I am not paying for shipping and sending from east coast to west to get it powder coated by CaseLabs. Maybe next year.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Got to love that Husky screwdriver, aren't they great?
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