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Would this be a good case for water cooling? - Page 2

post #11 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebsterXC View Post

The 690 would only fit a 240 radiator in the top. Let me do some case reasearch for you and I'll get back to you on what would work good for a 360 radiator on the top.
To be honest, with radiators, go with the Black Ice GTX series. Although the SR1 is "low flow optimized", just get some higher static pressure fans, push/pull, and you're good to go. What fans are you going to be running on these rads? I have a Black ICe GTX360 and GTX240 in my loop, they're the best radiators I've ever owned and they are sexy...I mean sexy.

Thanks for the help. As far as fans go, I haven't put much thought into it yet. Kind of just started thinking about this.

So two more questions, you mention a push/pull setup, but how would that work in that cooler master case that I linked to? On the top, a push pull would require something to be outside of the case, no? I would like to avoid this if possible.

And wouldn't having a rad in the top be bad? I thought that you're supposed to have the reservoir as the highest point in your loop..

Also, you say that the 690 would "only fit a 240 radiator in the top" -- it says this on the specs page:

Top: 140 x 25 mm fan x 1 / 1200 RPM / 19 dBA (supports 120 / 140 mm fan x 2)

This would lead me to believe that it would also support a 280 (140x2), no?

And even though the top is the only place where I could do a dual rad, couldn't I though an extra 120 in the back?
Edited by lukeman3000 - 8/22/12 at 7:55pm
post #12 of 30
The CM690 was the original budget water cooling case because you can fit a 240 in the roof and another 240 on the floor. Its a great case and I've seen some really solid builds in them. As for the radiator I have a 360 SR1 cooling a 6950(bios flashed and running at over 6970 speeds+shaders) and my 5.0 GHz 2600k and it cools very well. Nothing but positives on the rad. It looks about a 100x better in person and as you can see in the photo has a mini built in shroud so you don't have to worry about puncturing your rad with the screws on install. Definitely solid parts. Be careful though watercooling is an incredibly slippery slope. I ended up spending double what I originally thought haha biggrin.gif

edit: ok so apparently its a really tight fit with a 240 in the bottom but you could easily fit a 140 which would cool your hardware plenty IMO

a build log i found with some decent pics http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=193495

you can also search the watercooling thread for some more examples of a decent setup
Edited by discipline - 8/22/12 at 8:18pm
post #13 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by discipline View Post

The CM690 was the original budget Be careful though watercooling is an incredibly slippery slope. I ended up spending double what I originally thought haha biggrin.gif

^This

In terms of case specs, listen to this guy^. I only glanced at some pictures. Sounds like you can do a 240 on the top and bottom.

Your res doesn't have to be the highest point in the loop, how do you think people fit 360's and 480's in their cases? tongue.gif
post #14 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by discipline View Post

The CM690 was the original budget water cooling case because you can fit a 240 in the roof and another 240 on the floor. Its a great case and I've seen some really solid builds in them. As for the radiator I have a 360 SR1 cooling a 6950(bios flashed and running at over 6970 speeds+shaders) and my 5.0 GHz 2600k and it cools very well. Nothing but positives on the rad. It looks about a 100x better in person and as you can see in the photo has a mini built in shroud so you don't have to worry about puncturing your rad with the screws on install. Definitely solid parts. Be careful though watercooling is an incredibly slippery slope. I ended up spending double what I originally thought haha biggrin.gif
edit: ok so apparently its a really tight fit with a 240 in the bottom but you could easily fit a 140 which would cool your hardware plenty IMO
a build log i found with some decent pics http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=193495

Good to know.

But let me ask again, would the 690 not be able to do a 280 in the top and a 240 in the bottom? This comes right from the specs on frozencpu.com:

Top: 140 x 25 mm fan x 1 / 1200 RPM / 19 dBA (supports 120 / 140 mm fan x 2)
Bottom: 120 mm fan x 2 (optional)

It looks like the top would support a 280 and the bottom a 240.

However, a couple additional questions about that -- does a single 240 really not cut it for a single GTX 680 and an Intel i5 3570K?

Also, as far as the position of the reservoir/rad goes, I have read in more than one guide that the reservoir should be at the top.

Edit: Actually, I read in the "water cooling guide for noobs" that the reservoir should be higher than the pump. I guess it doesn't necessarily mean it should be higher than the rad as well.

..taking a breath..

And what about the rad on the bottom of the 690? Would it be a push or pull, and how well would it work with it being so close to the floor?
post #15 of 30
Yep it doesn't have to be at the top of the loop just above the pump which is almost always mounted on the floor of the case tongue.gif I don't recall seeing anyone sticking a 280 in the top so I'm not sure in that regard. There is one thing to note: There is a difference between being able to mount two 140 fans and mounting a 280 rad. The holes might not be aligned for a rad but will fit 2 140 fans if you get what I'm saying. There are some solid videos of the case on youtube. I'm pretty sure you can see the hole spacing since it is one of the features of the case.
post #16 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeman3000 View Post

However, a couple additional questions about that -- does a single 240 really not cut it for a single GTX 680 and an Intel i5 3570K?

Ivy Bridge is the hottest of the bunch. I'm assuming you're wanting to overclock with the "K" series as well. Throw a 680 in the equation, which doesn't necessarily run super hot, but produces heat, and a 240 probably won't cut it. You could do it, but unless you're smacking Delta fans on the radiator I don't think you'll be happy with the temps.
post #17 of 30
Thread Starter 
discipline, I read through that build log that you linked to -- wow.

On the bottom where he has the rad and power supply, I'm still kind of unclear as to how he was able to access the connectors on the PSU. Would I be in the same situation if I put a rad on the bottom like that?

I wonder why he didn't use a bay reservoir? Looks like he had some empty ones..

Instead of putting a rad on the floor, maybe my best option would be to put a rad on the top and an extra 120 rad in the back? Though, would that mean I'd have to put the top fans outside the case? Don't necessarily want to do that.
post #18 of 30
CM690 II Advanced can get 2 240 rads inside one at top and one on the bottom, and its the cheapest one at that too. it could get a tight fit but its very possible w/o modding the case.
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post #19 of 30
For just over your $100 goal, you can get the Switch 810 from Micro Center for $119. With that case, you will not have to worry at all about whether or not you can fit adequate radiator space, as it will hold a 360/420 + 240/280 + 120/140 all push-pull, and the only modification necessary would be drilling a few new screw holes up top for most 420 rads (spacing is off). You would still have 3 3.5 bays, 3 full 5.25 bays, and one half-depth 5.25 bay up top for a fan controller.

The top has about 80mm of space between the top of the motherboard and the upper fan chamber, so fitting a 60mm rad is possible with push pull fans, but you would have to do a lot more work to fit it than with the slimmer rads. The XSPC EX420 is 36.5mm thick and will fit with your choice of push+pull fans easily, just have to drill 8 new screw holes (easy, and they won't be visible so they need not be perfect), and it's a fantastic radiator by any measure, and at $70 is an incredible deal.

The bottom holds a 240 simply by removing the thumbscrews and sliding out the bottom drive cage, and then another four screws to remove the metal support it sits on. It is possible to fit a 280 rad here, but will more than likely require a significant amount of cutting the front fan mount. Also, you have to have a fairly short psu or the 280 won't fit. You can remove both drive cages and fit a 280 against the front fans, but I think that the 240 on the bottom is more practical.
Unlike the top, you have virtually zero size constraints, and a 60mm thick rad will fit in push-pull just fine.

I would highly recommend getting a cylinder reservoir and not a bay res, regardless of the case, as the cylinders are not only easier to fill, bleed, and drain, they are also quieter and take up unused space instead of potentially useful 5.25 bays (if you need to fit more HDDs/Blu-Ray Drive/fan controller/etc).

Whichever way you go regarding the case, I would say that you need absolutely nothing less than a 360 rad or 2x 240s. You need to keep your components cool, as well as provide some headroom for yourself because there is a lot of uncertainty about exactly how hot a rig will be until it's up and running. Also, some 240s are essentially as good as some 360s, so the rads you choose also dictates how many you'll need. For example, I'd sooner have an Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 than an XSPC RS360 or a Swiftech MCR320QP for cooling the same components, despite the latter being larger.

Keep researching and good luck!

PS: the case is absolutely not something that you want to cut corners on, or you will always regret it. A good case can last a full build, and bad case may not even last a year, and a truly great case can last many builds over a very long time. You shouldn't look for a case that has everything you want, you should look for one that has more, because when it comes time to add more rads/blocks, you will be much better off not having to buy a whole new case as well.
   
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post #20 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

For just over your $100 goal, you can get the Switch 810 from Micro Center for $119. With that case, you will not have to worry at all about whether or not you can fit adequate radiator space, as it will hold a 360/420 + 240/280 + 120/140 all push-pull, and the only modification necessary would be drilling a few new screw holes up top for most 420 rads (spacing is off). You would still have 3 3.5 bays, 3 full 5.25 bays, and one half-depth 5.25 bay up top for a fan controller.
The top has about 80mm of space between the top of the motherboard and the upper fan chamber, so fitting a 60mm rad is possible with push pull fans, but you would have to do a lot more work to fit it than with the slimmer rads. The XSPC EX420 is 36.5mm thick and will fit with your choice of push+pull fans easily, just have to drill 8 new screw holes (easy, and they won't be visible so they need not be perfect), and it's a fantastic radiator by any measure, and at $70 is an incredible deal.
The bottom holds a 240 simply by removing the thumbscrews and sliding out the bottom drive cage, and then another four screws to remove the metal support it sits on. It is possible to fit a 280 rad here, but will more than likely require a significant amount of cutting the front fan mount. Also, you have to have a fairly short psu or the 280 won't fit. You can remove both drive cages and fit a 280 against the front fans, but I think that the 240 on the bottom is more practical.
Unlike the top, you have virtually zero size constraints, and a 60mm thick rad will fit in push-pull just fine.
I would highly recommend getting a cylinder reservoir and not a bay res, regardless of the case, as the cylinders are not only easier to fill, bleed, and drain, they are also quieter and take up unused space instead of potentially useful 5.25 bays (if you need to fit more HDDs/Blu-Ray Drive/fan controller/etc).
Whichever way you go regarding the case, I would say that you need absolutely nothing less than a 360 rad or 2x 240s. You need to keep your components cool, as well as provide some headroom for yourself because there is a lot of uncertainty about exactly how hot a rig will be until it's up and running. Also, some 240s are essentially as good as some 360s, so the rads you choose also dictates how many you'll need. For example, I'd sooner have an Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 than an XSPC RS360 or a Swiftech MCR320QP for cooling the same components, despite the latter being larger.
Keep researching and good luck!
PS: the case is absolutely not something that you want to cut corners on, or you will always regret it. A good case can last a full build, and bad case may not even last a year, and a truly great case can last many builds over a very long time. You shouldn't look for a case that has everything you want, you should look for one that has more, because when it comes time to add more rads/blocks, you will be much better off not having to buy a whole new case as well.

Wow, thanks for the incredibly detailed reply. I will have to look into the Switch 810. Although there's not a Micro Center nearby, I'm assuming I could get it online somewhere.

How do most people mount cylinder reservoirs?
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