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[MC/Corsair] Corsair 900D "Godzilla" unveiled - Page 210

post #2091 of 5815
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/search.php?substring=900d

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post #2092 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Utah View Post

Is the top cover and filter one piece or can the filter element be removed? I notice a difference on my rig when I have the top on vs off. Less restriction when trying to force hot air out.

Ask George from Corsair by PM.

Link to his profile
Edited by Master Freez - 1/19/13 at 4:57am
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post #2093 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by S3ason View Post

Stainless in a water loop is a big no-no. This will cause a reaction between the other metals in your loop and destroy our waterblocks. The best solution is to use copper pipe and have it plated in nickel at your local plater. thumb.gif

Yes, that is what I actually meant. The stainless look was what I was actually trying to describe.
post #2094 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by CiBi View Post

so the case that costs 350$ in the US costs 460$ in the EU, I understand why there is a price difference but I still think its a pretty big difference LOL biggrin.gif

Well, $350 plus a 21% VAT tax is $423.50. I'm not sure where the other $36.50 goes, extra shipping costs maybe, but the majority of the added cost (2/3rds of it) is being taken by politicians.
post #2095 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

I'm not sure, a quick look at the math says that it SHOULD be possible (25mm fan + 60mm rad + 25mm fan) per side is only 110mm on each side of the case. That's a total of 220mm worth of rads and fans to be crammed in the bottom. I believe the case width is 251mm wide. So yes, it is possible to do that, and have MAYBE 31mm of room to spare (I'm guessing a bit less, since there is a door and that and where the fan mounts are have to have some thickness ... so maybe 20-25mm of room to spare?).

My only issue with putting a pair of 60mm thick radiators in "push/pull" down below is that I personally want to have the air blow OUT from both sides. This means that in order to get a good air flow across the radiator from the 12 fans (8 on one side and 4 on the other), the air will have to come in from the upper part of the case, be drawn down, and exhausted out both sides. In order to do this, you will need a cavity in the middle of the lower section of the 900D wide enough to allow air to be drawn down and through. I'm just not sure that 20-25mm will be wide enough with 60mm rads. If you change the rads to 45mm wide, that opens up the center gap to 50-55mm wide ... which SHOULD be enough room to do what I want to do.

This isn't to say that someone else might want to just suck air in on the 480 side of the case, and blow it through the case and have part of that warmer air drawn in to the 240 radiator on the other side and vented out the other side. That SHOULD work, even with 60mm fans, but the problem with that is that the 240 rad will be taking in the warmed air that is being exhausted from the 480 rad. Not the end of the world to be sure, just something that I'd prefer not to do.

Remember Little Devil PC-V8 case: fans are pushing air trough first radiator, then trough the second, no other intake exept front 140 fan...and everything works fine thumb.gif

Case is 251 but side panels grills are thick outside and inside with filtres (no problems with closing, just recessed inside). In best scenario there is about 244 mm inside. PSU is sitting about 32-35 mm from the side, PSU thickness is 86 mm. Sooo... about 123 mm before the PSU. Both 60 mm radiators will fit with push-pull with some freedom between them.

According to the tests, we can push water into back radiator first, then into front, but difference is only little (probably i'll do it, just in case). You are right about everything but we can live with 900D without any science about airflow directions)


Specs and FAQ update:

Top space: 110 mm (measured by George)

Bottom space: not more than 244 mm, maybe little less

Front space: ~55 mm, maybe little more (front fans are outside and not count)

P.S: I just send PM to George for measuring the bottom space from edge to egde and from the edge to PSU. So we wiill know the exact space inside.
Edited by Master Freez - 1/19/13 at 6:55am
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post #2096 of 5815
hi there everyone. i have just joined this forum having read virtually all this threds posts (i know i have a lot of time on my hands). Just want to say George you have made a fantastic case in the 900d and previous ones so keep up to good work. I would like to know one thing that im not sure has been answered yet, is this put together using rivits? i was planning on using the tj11 in my next build as it is easily taken apart to both mod and paint. however after seeing this beauty i would like to use this instead but was just wondering on the screw/rivit situation.

Also i have been looking at the photos of the build in the 900d and im trying to figure out the tube and fan cable routing in the bottom of it.
post #2097 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Freez View Post

P.S: I just send PM to George for measuring the bottom space from edge to egde and from the edge to PSU. So we wiill know the exact space inside.

Are you going to buy the rads first then the case, or the case first then the rads? Sure hope it's the latter.
When you get the case in, measure then buy.
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post #2098 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by BranField View Post

hi there everyone. i have just joined this forum having read virtually all this threds posts (i know i have a lot of time on my hands). Just want to say George you have made a fantastic case in the 900d and previous ones so keep up to good work. I would like to know one thing that im not sure has been answered yet, is this put together using rivits? i was planning on using the tj11 in my next build as it is easily taken apart to both mod and paint. however after seeing this beauty i would like to use this instead but was just wondering on the screw/rivit situation.
Also i have been looking at the photos of the build in the 900d and im trying to figure out the tube and fan cable routing in the bottom of it.

Nothing to figure out: cables are foing under the mb tray directly from the PSU, all fittings on the radiators will be on the left, bottom is opened so you can connect rad directly to anything. Also i have a plan how to use ONLY the crystal link in this case with easiest draining system!)

Rivets. Or new screws are looking like a rivets biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by WorldExclusive View Post

Are you going to buy the rads first then the case, or the case first then the rads? Sure hope it's the latter.
When you get the case in, measure then buy.

I wouldn't ask George if he didn't measure top spacing for us by himself.
Edited by Master Freez - 1/19/13 at 7:26am
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post #2099 of 5815
I'm wondering if it's possible to mount a 360 at the bottom while still retaining the the front drive cage?
From looking at the photos it seems unlikely...
I can probably get by with just 2 drive bays, but it would be really nice the have the hot-swap one as an extra for easy backups.
    
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post #2100 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by MengNa View Post

I'm wondering if it's possible to mount a 360 at the bottom while still retaining the the front drive cage?
From looking at the photos it seems unlikely...
I can probably get by with just 2 drive bays, but it would be really nice the have the hot-swap one as an extra for easy backups.

At stock? No

If you will mount your radiator on Velcro double sided tape, probably possible) But with 480(420) + 240(280) at the bottom you already have 2 cages for a six hard drives. If you have ssd's, not hdd's, some of them could me mounted with Velcro on any other place like a back of 5.25 stack or behind mb tray. Only hdd's? User the 5.25 bay cage or Scythe Himuro.


Edited by Master Freez - 1/19/13 at 9:06am
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