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[MC/Corsair] Corsair 900D "Godzilla" unveiled - Page 213

post #2121 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyk20z3 View Post

How does more intakes = less dust when your blowing more air/dust in to the case ?
If all of the intakes are properly filtered then less dust goes into the case.
The other thing to consider is positive air pressure vs. negative air pressure.
With negative air pressure (for example setting it up so all the fans are exhausts) air will enter the case anyway it can, such as through the passive vents on the back and the gaps between the 5.25 bays.
Positive air pressure (more fans as intake than exhaust) is better IMO as air will try to leave the case through any possible route, thereby not allowing dust to be sucked in through the unfiltered spots.
    
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post #2122 of 5815
the mid plate wouldn't be just to separate the chamber but also to hide the bottom ad add a bit of aesthetics to the inside. im torn between a smoke plexi plate or a aluminium sheet covered in 3m carbon.

yer i thought the controller would be powerful enough but its always worth getting another opinion. i have found a 4 way splitter with no molex to power so i think i would be using a fair few of them. i think i would just be using 120's throughout as i know they generally have better static pressurefor rads than 140's. Just out of curiosity why would you put 140 on a seperate channel to the 120s, is it because the 140 would have different rpm and power requirements.

also i was wondering if anyone has any ideas about where to add some colour accents on the 900d. previously i was thinking about spraying the mesh of the tj11 and inside the midplate fan housings, along with the front bay covers just to add a bit of colour and contrast. however with the 900d the mesh covers a large space so instead of colour accents it would be more of a block of colour.
post #2123 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by MengNa View Post

If all of the intakes are properly filtered then less dust goes into the case.
The other thing to consider is positive air pressure vs. negative air pressure.
With negative air pressure (for example setting it up so all the fans are exhausts) air will enter the case anyway it can, such as through the passive vents on the back and the gaps between the 5.25 bays.
Positive air pressure (more fans as intake than exhaust) is better IMO as air will try to leave the case through any possible route, thereby not allowing dust to be sucked in through the unfiltered spots.

Well i will have -

7 intakes/3 AF 120- front

4 SP120 -front side

5 exhaust/AF 140 rear

4 SP120 top

Plus some additional cooling behind the psu so my pressure should even out.
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post #2124 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyk20z3 View Post

Well i will have -

7 intakes/3 AF 120- front

4 SP120 -front side

5 exhaust/AF 140 rear

4 SP120 top

Plus some additional cooling behind the psu so my pressure should even out.
It's hard to tell exactly, as only the rear exhaust is unfiltered thus it can push a lot more air out, and I'm assuming that you'll have 2 480 rads (bottom and top) which provide more resistance to the fans.
You'll just have to check the air pressure once everything is set up. Personally after going with positive air pressure on the 700D I'll never do it any different.
    
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post #2125 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by dershadi View Post

Apologies if this has been covered already, but could you fit two Black Ice GTX 480s with 120x25 mm fans and 38 mm shrouds? Which would be about ~180 mm depth for each.

BI GTX 480 is 54 mm thick, fans are 25 and shroud is 38. Total = 117 mm

At the top we only have 110 mm. So your setup will cover motherboard mosfet heatsink and might even touch it. If you already have this rad, you can change the shroud to 25 mm thick version or put fans in push-pull. Maybe you can use just TFC Triebwerk thick fans.

In my opinion it's MUCH better to use push-pull with low rpm fans. Maybe thick shround creates space to avoid the noise...i'm not shure.

For all specs and radiators compatibility read this
Quote:
Originally Posted by BranField View Post

is it because the 140 would have different rpm and power requirements.

also i was wondering if anyone has any ideas about where to add some colour accents on the 900d. previously i was thinking about spraying the mesh of the tj11 and inside the midplate fan housings, along with the front bay covers just to add a bit of colour and contrast. however with the 900d the mesh covers a large space so instead of colour accents it would be more of a block of colour.

Yes, 140's are a little bit different. Not sure about the compatibility, probably it's nothing, but better to have on other channel for more correct rpm. Fans are different and different rpm's are making ...you know.
Edited by Master Freez - 1/19/13 at 2:34pm
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post #2126 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by MengNa View Post

It's hard to tell exactly, as only the rear exhaust is unfiltered thus it can push a lot more air out, and I'm assuming that you'll have 2 480 rads (bottom and top) which provide more resistance to the fans.
You'll just have to check the air pressure once everything is set up. Personally after going with positive air pressure on the 700D I'll never do it any different.

Well i am far from positive pressure on my 800D.

Exhaust -3 SP120 top

Intake - AF 120 rear/Now a AF 140 rear since i removed the exterior mounted 360 to prepare for the 900D.

So any welcome change in more positive pressure as you mentioned would be nice.
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post #2127 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

No, you are not, that is why, even as a Monsta 360 owner myself, I am not sweating over this case having limited support of it. It would be cool (no pun intended) if it could easily house them, but personally, the good old RX360 (or even the AX360) or the UT60 is better than the Monsta 360 at very slow fan speeds, and only 1'ish C worse than the Monsta with faster speed fans. Hardly the trouble that it is worth.

But as I said before (and mainly the reason why I bought one for a current build), the Monsta is mainly about eP33n, nothing more.

That's true, in the end, I'll probably just go with two RX480's and a RX240 in just push with GT AP-13's (1150rpm). The way the alphacool logo on the monstas being upside down just drives me insane. Especially, since its going to be hanging pretty low if you got it mounted up top since its so thick.
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post #2128 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Freez View Post


Yes, 140's are a little bit different. Not sure about the compatibility, probably it's nothing, but better to have on other channel for more correct rpm. Fans are different and different rpm's are making ...you know.

fair enough, better safe than sorry.

i cant wait to see some proper reviews and build logs on this. one review in particular i am mainly looking forward to and that is by Mr TinyTomLogan over at TTL towers. some great work done by him. I hope you will grace us with a work log Master Freez
post #2129 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyk20z3 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MengNa View Post

It's hard to tell exactly, as only the rear exhaust is unfiltered thus it can push a lot more air out, and I'm assuming that you'll have 2 480 rads (bottom and top) which provide more resistance to the fans.
You'll just have to check the air pressure once everything is set up. Personally after going with positive air pressure on the 700D I'll never do it any different.

Well i am far from positive pressure on my 800D.

Exhaust -3 SP120 top

Intake - AF 120 rear/Now a AF 140 rear since i removed the exterior mounted 360 to prepare for the 900D.

So any welcome change in more positive pressure as you mentioned would be nice.

Negative air pressure moves more air through the case and can be a degree or two cooler as a result of the intake air spending less time in the case, but good god does it collect the dust in a hurry.
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post #2130 of 5815
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Freez View Post

BI GTX 480 is 54 mm thick, fans are 25 and shroud is 38. Total = 117 mm

At the top we only have 110 mm. So your setup will cover motherboard mosfet heatsink and might even touch it. If you already have this rad, you can change the shroud to 25 mm thick version or put fans in push-pull. Maybe you can use just TFC Triebwerk thick fans.

In my opinion it's MUCH better to use push-pull with low rpm fans. Maybe thick shround creates space to avoid the noise...i'm not shure.

For all specs and radiators compatibility read this

Sorry forgot to specify I meant shrouds + fans in push/pull, hence the extra depth. From that post it looks like you could fit Rad + Fans/Shrouds Push/Pull at the bottom, and just Rad + Fans Push/Pull at the top.

EDIT: Just watched the video demo and saw that the PSU goes sideways in the bottom as well, so looks like best bet would be Push/Pull on both top and bottom with no shrouds.
Edited by dershadi - 1/19/13 at 3:42pm
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