Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL
Hmmm... this 'story' you allude to is most interesting to me. I got this wireless Polk sub for free some years back and I found the same kicking the box sound - in fact it was so 'floppy' that I wound up just pulling out an old Infinity 8" sub from a really crap set of satellites I got when one of the big box stores went out of business (I forget the name but it was before Circuit City went BK...). I never bothered to crack it open because I just figured it was a lost cause - but if I could stuff it some more and do some 'tweaking' to get it tighter... I could have a nice bedroom system sub (if my wife will allow a sub in the bedroom that is).
Have to agree with the center channel - although I'm not even sure I like surround for the PC. I guess that's mostly because I've never had truly accurate speakers for mine - and placement was sub-optimal as well. It just always seemed that the rears actually killed the imaging for gaming, etc... and I was more accurate (in FPS) with just a stereo pair. Your speakers are much more accurate that what I've used in the past so it probably will be helpful in your case.
Subs are an interesting topic, usually involving more tears than smiles
My Polk is this one: PSW12, no fancy wireless or anything
I would classify it as a typical mid range sub woofer. I't reasonably sturdy built, ~1" MDF with internal bracing. But I was shocked to see, that the only dampening inside, was a tiny strip of polyfill. So small that squeezed together it could fit in a coffee cup (not even mug sized). They might as well have saved the $0.05 and left it out.
OK, it is correct that the general rule of thumb is that a vented box shouldn't be over stuffed with dampening material, but the Polk stuffing was just ridiculous.
I did try things like various amounts of foam in the vent before taking it apart, but never succeeded in getting a reasonable balance.
The greatest improvement was to cover all inside surfaces with acoustic foam, as far as I remember I used 50/50 of 1 1/2" and 2 1/2 inch thickness, doesn't have to be done super exact, but make sure it's flat on the surfaces. About $50 worth of foam will do it. That pretty much transformed the sub from horrible to reasonable.
It's this kind of foam I used:
You can then fine tune with some more foam or poly fill behind the driver if needed.
I think I took some pictures of when I had it apart, I usually always takes pictures of everything when I do something, mostly for my own reference, like, when time to put it back together and you start wondering if the red wire went there or there
I'll try see if I can find them and if any of them are useful.
I did also modify a couple of resistors and a capacitor on the filter/amp board to give it a bit steeper slope on the crossover frequency, it was however only a minor improvement.