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post #11 of 28
Thread Starter 
I've noticed a lot of people go from the pump directly to the radiator rather than to blocks. Is there a reason for that?
post #12 of 28
Your reservoir is connected to the pump it's a lot easier to bleed your system (means filling it up)
Your reservoir will flow water to your pump (gravity yeknow) and the pump can push it to the radiator.
The reason people prefer placing the radiator after the pump is because in a lot of cases the pump is located directly underneath the radiator. (easy to connect)

Another reason is because usually the radiator is located on the top and you would like to have your water running down so that gravity can help circulate the water.
If you'd reverse your loop and push the water up (say GPU - CPU - top rad) you'll need a lot more pushing power from your pump.
And if your pump is to weak to handle it then there won't be an adequate amount of flow to cool properly.
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post #13 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amputate View Post

Your reservoir is connected to the pump it's a lot easier to bleed your system (means filling it up)
Your reservoir will flow water to your pump (gravity yeknow) and the pump can push it to the radiator.
The reason people prefer placing the radiator after the pump is because in a lot of cases the pump is located directly underneath the radiator. (easy to connect)
Another reason is because usually the radiator is located on the top and you would like to have your water running down so that gravity can help circulate the water.
If you'd reverse your loop and push the water up (say GPU - CPU - top rad) you'll need a lot more pushing power from your pump.
And if your pump is to weak to handle it then there won't be an adequate amount of flow to cool properly.
Ahh, that makes a lot of sense now. The res/pump combo I have chosen can use 2 pumps; does that mean it could operate 2 loops or can they be combined into one loop?

Also, after looking around, I'm heavily leaning towards the HAF X case, which can handle 360mm rads without modifications, correct? I'm not a fan of cases with sliding panels, doors, etc. Its just something else for my kids to gain access to and mess up. So even though the Cosmos II is beautiful, its not very practical for me.

Another thing I just realized is that it seems no matter what, if I get a 360 rad on top, its going to protrude into the drive bays. So I may have to reconsider my res and pump options due to my X-fi control panel and DVD burner taking up bays as well. I don't think there will be room for all of them up front.
Edited by Lord Odin - 8/26/12 at 2:12am
post #14 of 28
Well you could always make 2 individual loops but to what purpose? biggrin.gif
2 pumps can work in 1 loop without a problem which is what most people end up doing when they realize their pump is to weak.
And yes the Cooler Master HAF X can hold a 360mm rad on top.

Here's a guy who did a cool build log on his HAF X case smile.gif
This is one of the many pictures from his case:
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post #15 of 28
Thread Starter 
After doing some more research, it looks like I can keep the bay res. On my current case, the motherboard came with a drive for USB 3.0 but if I get the HAF-X, it comes with 3.0 ports, so I can eliminate a drive and still have room for everything.

I just wasn't sure if 2 pumps could operate on the same loop or not and was curious.

I think I'm going to have to wait until after I get the HAF-X to determine how much space I have for a radiator and fans. Only then will I be able to tell what configuration I can use (push-only; push-pull; high fpi; low fpi).
Edited by Lord Odin - 8/26/12 at 11:00pm
post #16 of 28
Re: pump/res placement.

PC water pumps are centrifugal pumps, which need a minimum pressure, referred to as net positive suction head or NPSH, at the eye of the impeller {where the water goes into the pump}. The pump will not 'lift' water, there has to be a head of water behind the pump.
Which is a long winded way of saying make sure the res is above the pump and tubed directly to the pump.

I wouldn't really agree with 1/2" kinking less than 3/8". Tube wall thickness is more a factor with kinking on tight bends. I've used both and use only 3/8 now. One reason is the comp fittings can more easily fit on water blocks with the iny and the outy ports close together.
But if your happy with the 1/2", that's all good.

Best case I've ever used for W/C is without doubt, by far and away, the CaseLabs M8, given that I prefer a minimalist understated style. CaseLabs cases have functionality for Africa. Expensive and has a large footprint though.
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post #17 of 28
hey lord odin, what's up? funny running into you here as well...small world i guess. anyhow, i wouldn't discount the haf 922 just yet. allow me to provide some inspiration courtesy of the cooler master haf club thumb.gif

here's one with a xspc 360 and 120 mounted internally.
a nice tidy loop with an internal 240 and 120. he offset the top rad to clear the mobo; something to keep in mind.
it looks like this guy stuffed a 240 and two 120's in his 922. o_O
another 240 and 120 internal, and his update here with external rad fans. might be another way to gain extra clearance.
a real clean build with two internal 240's. not practical for you, but it's nice to look at at least. tongue.gif
finally, there's this external 360 that doesn't look too terrible.

1) for the rad, get a thin, cheap one. the xspc 240 and swiftech 240 are relatively cheap at $38 and $52 respectively, but are about 35mm thick. the black ice gt stealth is 5mm thinner, but costs $59. as for grills, frozencpu and performance pcs should have you covered.

2) i really can't answer on if the 240 alone would cover you cpu and gpu, but i see no reason why a 240 and 120 wouldn't match a 360. it's a better option for that case anyways as it provides more flexibility on mounting options.

3) just get a regular, thin radiator. you're not using low-powered fans so you don't need low-cfm optimized radiators (such as the swiftech quiet power or black ice sr1), and you don't want the thick radiators because you don't really have the room for it.

4) for plumbing, as long as the reservoir is feeding the pump inlet you can plumb it however you want. as others have pointed out, it does make a temperature difference, but it's so small as to not really worry about it. just route the tubing in the easiest, cleanest order that minimizes as many tight bends as possible. you'll have to take it apart somewhere to put the gpu block in regardless of how it's done. also, 10' of tubing ought to cover everything...my latest loop has a 120, a 240, cpu block, gpu block and res and i had about 2' left over. it's good to have extra left over! tygon r-3603 would be ideal to use, but the stuff is damn expensive. i got 10' of masterkleer from mcmaster-carr instead (i used tygon in my two previous builds though). it's a lot cheaper at .94 a foot, but it's not crystal clear like tygon is, and it's not *quite* as flexible either (but still very flexible). the key with making tight bends with any tubing is to work with the natural bend in the tubing. also, one good pump (~10' head / 250+ gph) would be cheaper than that dual-pump swiftech unit (that thing is expensive, holy crap!), and shouldn't have any trouble with that proposed loop.
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post #18 of 28
Thread Starter 
Approximately how much tubing would a system need? Granted, this depends on layout and number of parts but there should be a general range. Maybe 5-10 ft?
post #19 of 28
10ft is a good idea, better to have a bit extra than not enough
   
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post #20 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Odin View Post

Approximately how much tubing would a system need? Granted, this depends on layout and number of parts but there should be a general range. Maybe 5-10 ft?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude 
also, 10' of tubing ought to cover everything...my latest loop has a 120, a 240, cpu block, gpu block and res and i had about 2' left over. it's good to have extra left over!
7' would be fine for cpu only, but since you want to do the gpu as well i recommend 10'.
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