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Fountain Watercooling Project

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Let me start out by saying this isn't built for any performance gaming or anything like that. I wanted to build a home server and have it be more than just a computer in the a room somewhere I keep all my files. So I got to thinking of an interesting way I could hide the computer. I found all kinds of examples of people making custom cases out of household items to hide things. But I didn't want any loud fans so I thought of another thing, which was to cool the whole computer with water no fans at all. This is what was created. Computer actually runs pretty cool as the results show, it is also whisper quite no matter how far I push it. With no fans ramping up when it gets hot it stays nice and quite. I'm curious what temps others are getting with their water cooling.

First things Specs:

ASUS P8Z68-V LX LGA
Intel Core i5-2310 Sandy Bridge 2.9GHz (3.2GHz Turbo Boost)
8Gb PC17000
2 1Tb WD Black in raid 1
Swiftech 3x120mm Rad
Swiftech Apogee HD
Swiftech MCP35B
Swiftech MCRES Micro Rev2 Reservoir

Step one was to find the fountain:


As you can see the Rad just barley fits into the water basin in the fountain:



Next I built and enclosure for the case and fountain water basin:





Added some esthetic's to the enclosure.






Because of the vibration and noise the fountain's pump created when I turned it on for a test in the enclosure I decided to add sound dampening to make it whisper quiet. I added to the water basin and the enclosure top and bottom:










Next I wired the new "case" Blue to indicate power and red to indicate Hard drive activity. I got waterproof led's and and used water proof connections plus shrink wrap, as well as silicone between the joints. From there I drilled the holes ans mounted the leds under the fountain:











Next I had to gut a case and make some modifications because the back was now the front:






I took an old Dell Optiplex and hacked out the double 5.25" bay and made it a single:








Motherboard and waterblock:




I then painted the back with epoxy appliance paint to match the rest of the case:



Next I wired and mounted new switches, power is illuminated, and reset:





For the speaker I drilled a small hole and glued it to the case:




Then I wired everything up, and cleaned it:





Pump and Reservoir



Next Plumbed everything up and loaded Home server:



Notice that it is now a legit computer with the Proc badge:



After Home server was loaded moved to its location in my front room, ran and HDMI cable under the house from there to my AV receiver and voilia, a home server that can be used on the tv.




After all said and done I ran some test, here is the idle temp:


This is the Prime95 Test I ran:


Here are the results after about 25 mins of Prime95 running, since nothing was changing I figured I could stop it:


So there you have it, pretty happy with the way it turned out, no one can really tell it is a computer, no fans, and runs pretty cool with just water running through the fountain. Doesn't really peak in temp that much under load.
post #2 of 14
Just putting this out there...

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post #3 of 14
Now that is pretty solid.
Well done!
post #4 of 14
Wow cool! Lots of effort there! I'm amazed

Temps are also great. But it should make noise?? and watch out for the algea to be!
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post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devran View Post

Wow cool! Lots of effort there! I'm amazed
Temps are also great. But it should make noise?? and watch out for the algea to be!

Thanks, it makes noise, just very little. The computer pump itself it very hard to hear, it is the one in the fountain that I had to get quite. Which is why I used all the sound deadening material. I thought of the algea, I am using a real slight bleach, Like capful for 6 gallons, with an anti algea pond agent to help combat that. During the build I had the fountain running to test this for about 2 months, and didn't really have an issue with the algea. Only time will tell on that.
post #6 of 14
This is magnificient. Great work and super original!

+Rep!
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post #7 of 14
Dude, EPIC! Honestly one of the most original/clever builds I have ever seen! It's ingenious, not overly-complex, yet extremely well-executed and with very good craftsmanship. I hereby nominate you for Mod of the Month! smile.gif

Oh, and I can't help myself from saying: SLEEVE THAT POWER SUPPLY! Go get 200ft of Paracord (100ft of blue + 75ft/100ft of white + 25/0ft of grey for all of $20) and then either learn the heatshrink-less method or grab a bunch of 15mm pre-cut 3:1 shrink ratio colored heatshrink (say 1.5-2x pieces per ft of Paracord and make sure to get blue shrink for blue sleeving, white for white, etc; with that shrink ratio, I believe 3/8" heatshrink will work best with Paracord), and the shrink will be a bit more expensive than the Paracord but you can always get 2:1 shrink ratio non-pre-cut for much less just be sure you measure well. Check out the sleeving sub-forum here for the FAQ on sleeving written by the world's most talented cable artist, and read through some posts and stuff too. I like Paracord because it's not shiny due to it being an extremely tightly woven nylon fabric, but others prefer MDPC-X which is more-expensive and harder to get a hold of but is by-far the absolute best of the "traditional" sleeving (the shinier, plastic type).
Also, Bitfenix, who makes the absolute best of the best mass-produced individually sleeved Extension Cables, use a material extremely similar to Paracord (in that it is more of a fabric than a plastic and thus has more of a "depth" to it), they sell their sleeving material by the foot in 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 inch diameter (and I believe a few more, including 1/16"), and in a good number of colors. They also sell heatshrink, but as all of their stuff that is pre made is free from heatshrink (at least everything I've owned), I can't speak for its quality.


But seriously, this is one of the coolest things I've seen in a long time. Thanks for not only sharing but for showing us how it was designed and developed!
   
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post #8 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

This is magnificient. Great work and super original!
+Rep!
Pretty much this! Rep+
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post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Dude, EPIC! Honestly one of the most original/clever builds I have ever seen! It's ingenious, not overly-complex, yet extremely well-executed and with very good craftsmanship. I hereby nominate you for Mod of the Month! smile.gif
Oh, and I can't help myself from saying: SLEEVE THAT POWER SUPPLY! Go get 200ft of Paracord (100ft of blue + 75ft/100ft of white + 25/0ft of grey for all of $20) and then either learn the heatshrink-less method or grab a bunch of 15mm pre-cut 3:1 shrink ratio colored heatshrink (say 1.5-2x pieces per ft of Paracord and make sure to get blue shrink for blue sleeving, white for white, etc; with that shrink ratio, I believe 3/8" heatshrink will work best with Paracord), and the shrink will be a bit more expensive than the Paracord but you can always get 2:1 shrink ratio non-pre-cut for much less just be sure you measure well. Check out the sleeving sub-forum here for the FAQ on sleeving written by the world's most talented cable artist, and read through some posts and stuff too. I like Paracord because it's not shiny due to it being an extremely tightly woven nylon fabric, but others prefer MDPC-X which is more-expensive and harder to get a hold of but is by-far the absolute best of the "traditional" sleeving (the shinier, plastic type).
Also, Bitfenix, who makes the absolute best of the best mass-produced individually sleeved Extension Cables, use a material extremely similar to Paracord (in that it is more of a fabric than a plastic and thus has more of a "depth" to it), they sell their sleeving material by the foot in 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 inch diameter (and I believe a few more, including 1/16"), and in a good number of colors. They also sell heatshrink, but as all of their stuff that is pre made is free from heatshrink (at least everything I've owned), I can't speak for its quality.
But seriously, this is one of the coolest things I've seen in a long time. Thanks for not only sharing but for showing us how it was designed and developed!

Thanks for the suggestion I will have to look into that. This is really this first computer I have done anything with and first watercooling. (I have built a few others but it consited of basic pick out parts and plug them all in kind of cable manage it). I am just now (after everything is said and done) looking at these beatiful builds that others are doing. Probably should have done that first. But I can go back and add some things. Just curious, when you say blue white and grey for the colors how are you envisioning appling them to the PSU? Blue for what, grey for what, white for what?
post #10 of 14
You can alternate them, take the 24pin for example. You could go blue-blue-blue-blue-blue-blue-grey-grey-white-white-white-white or something like that which will highlight each color without clashing together. Any variations of that theme would work, it doesn't matter what order, but I do think it looks better to have similar colors grouped together instead of random. You could also pattern them, such as: b-b-b-w-w-g-g-w-w-b-b-b or w-w-g-b-b-b-b-b-b-g-w-w. Whichever pattern looks best to you is the best way to go smile.gif

Ideally, you pick one dominant color, a secondary color that will highlight the second most common color inside the case, and the third color should pull them together. I chose the white/blue/grey because of the colors in your build as well as the influence of water, tying it to the theme and color scheme. Also, by blue I mean more of an "Asus light blue" than navy blue, and a light grey.

The benefit of Paracord, aside from the excellent looks, is that it is so cheap that you can afford to experiment with it.

Also, if you have cables you prefer not be seen, you can either sleeve them solely in the primary color or you can just use black or dark/light grey so that they don't have as much visual "pop" as the primary cables (which I consider to be the 24pin, 8/4pin CPU power, 6/8pin PCI-E, and depending on your computer setup MOLEX and/or SATA power). It's all about using the powers of perception to your advantage, drawing people's vision from the "hidden" cables and towards the primary ones.
   
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Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
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