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[Build Log] CattleProd - Black-on-Black Watercooled Bitfenix Prodigy Gaming Build - Page 2

post #11 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtclocker View Post

looking good so far. an advice is try not to use too much 90° fittings, it will afftect your flow a bit. About fan controller i don't think u need one. GT-15s are pretty silent fans.

thanks?
 
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post #12 of 63
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtclocker View Post

looking good so far. an advice is try not to use too much 90° fittings, it will afftect your flow a bit. About fan controller i don't think u need one. GT-15s are pretty silent fans.


Thanks for the input! You're right about the AP-15's. They were practically silent on my H80. I've got some other ideas for how I'm going to hook up my fans and manage the cables that don't involve a fan controller at this point.

I think the bit about 90-degree fittings being too restrictive gets repeated around here more so because “everybody knows” it than because of testing and results with modern hardware. The newer 90-degree adapters are designed for better flow, and the (expensive) Bitspower ones I’m using here, from what I understand, actually contain a 45-degree bend inside them. We also need to think about how small this case is. If the choice is between a 90-degree fitting and an almost-kinking tube that reduces tube diameter or puts a lot of stress on waterblocks, then the 90-degree fitting is going to be the correct choice every time. thumb.gif

Restriction of flow in any 90-degree turn would be a function of many things, like coolant viscosity, density and velocity, and tube diameter and friction. Since we are talking about narrow, smooth plastic tubing, finely-machined fittings with increased diameter, and distilled water at or near ambient temperature, then the loss of flow should be at or near the nominal level. I think it is too easy to conclude that, “since the turn is 90 degrees, the coolant must slow down enough to affect temperatures.” It just cannot be the case that the velocity of the coolant changes that much. The velocity in the entire length of tube must be the same, or very nearly the same, or else you will accumulate fluid in one section of the tube, which clearly does not happen in most builds.

I think that by the time all is said and done, the small difference in flow rate caused by my 90 degree fittings will not be enough to affect temperatures here and or be considered “restrictive,” especially as compared to the restrictiveness of, say, a CPU block. And especially considering that there’s just not a lot of tube in this build, period. If my temperatures end up horrible, then I’ll certainly re-examine my approach to see if 90-degree fittings (or 30mm radiators, for that matter) are causing a problem. But I don’t anticipate it.

Now, I’m working on the build all weekend, and have been since yesterday morning, so there will be a major update coming at the end of the weekend. So stay tuned! Thanks for reading--it means a lot to me.
 
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post #13 of 63
Thread Starter 
Huge update with lots of pics:

Busy weekend! The wife and kid were out of town, so I spent a lot of time on the build. After spending a lot of time installing Windows and drivers and flushing radiators (won’t bore you with pics of that), I decided to start trying to fit some components and ended up doing a lot more than I expected.

Of course, I didn’t do it all by myself:

7955341166_bf6a92652e.jpg

First, thanks to mrbean’s build log, I knew I’d have to make some room under the motherboard for the Apogee Drive II backplate. I considered putting in some washers to make the screws sit up higher, but I didn’t feel completely comfortable with that, not knowing how the block would sit and whether the washers would damage my motherboard. I also considered cutting off the bottom of the screws, but decided against that in case I needed to make a warranty claim on the block/pump for any reason.

So, time to remove the PSU cage and make a backplate cutout. With the Dremel and a simple drill bit, it was easy to drill out the rivets:

7955341678_ab622af9c9.jpg

And we’ve got a removable PSU cage!

7955342166_a227e07181.jpg

I wasn’t too worried about getting a perfect cut here, as no one will ever see this except you guys. So I just masked off my outline…

7955342492_c0a1309361.jpg

Made my cut (the sparks really flew!), and filed down the edges as best I could:

7955343032_fe69b243bc.jpg

And whew, those edges are sharp! I cut my finger like an idiot. But nothing a band-aid couldn’t fix…

7955337696_53b71c05d4.jpg

…well, nothing a band-aid and a beer couldn’t fix. You’ll note the finger is still capable of opening beer, so I’ve decided to keep it (the finger, not the beer. I drank the beer).

7955338194_6e010c4377.jpg

Anyway, lesson learned. Be more careful with the Dremel. I decided to put some electrical tape around the edges of the backplate cutout as a future finger-saver. Kinda the same idea as rubber strip around a case window, except it doesn’t need to look as nice since no one will ever see it after this:

7955343598_aa6604fca3.jpg

I drilled out some of the holes to 4mm and put in just a couple of M4 screws with washers and nuts (no need to replace every rivet), and the PSU cage goes back in as such:

7955336798_b3a306a51f.jpg

At this point, I tried fitting the PSU in the cage with some cables attached, and boy there is not a lot of room in here. The PSU does fit, but you really have to force it in. I considered getting the Dremel out again and cutting out the front of the PSU cage to make more room, but decided against it, because that’s where I want to mount my SSD (and potentially something else I have an idea about):

7955337352_909275d0b1.jpg

Went ahead and mounted the Apogee Drive II (super easy) with some PK-1 (pea method), and mounted the board. The cutout worked great and the board and backplate now fit without a hitch:

7966494202_a07c203b8b.jpg

And since I’m mounting the SSD on the PSU cage, I decided to go ahead and remove the SSD cage on the side panel. This will also help in case I decide to do two case windows (what do you guys think, should I?):

7955339564_63b7b1985f.jpg

Now, time for the Swiftech Komodo GPU block. I like that this cooler covers the entire card. Helps keep the card from warping due to the weight of the GPU block, and helps with my black-on-black look, as well. Off comes the stock cooler easily enough:

7966286438_33bccf4095.jpg

And at this point, I’ll make a plug for the best electrical component degreaser I’ve used, CRC. Comes in a big spray can at ACE Hardware—can’t go wrong:

7955340068_070da3a165.jpg

And my favorite rubberized cloth, which I used to clean the GPU and memory modules, as well as keep everything clean through the block install. Finger grease is no match for the CRC and this guy:

7966287268_9984dd23d8.jpg

The Komodo’s thermal “pads” are basically formed blocks of TIM with thin blue protective sheets that must be removed. A bit of a challenge to do without peeling the thermal pads off of the block, but not too difficult.

7966288150_a7957aa590.jpg

And some Prolimatech PK-1 goes on the GPU (pea method).

7966288884_da14ab46c2.jpg

On goes the tension bracket and backplate:

7966291796_eed0c905db.jpg

And we’ve got ourselves a single-slot 7970 ready to go diving! Note the red LED light on top. I’m a bit nervous whether this is going to make the whole case red. I might disconnect it before my final install of the loop.

7966290324_91ab1c3a96.jpg

And now for some sneak peek shots…. I spent a good bit of Saturday playing with radiator and fitting placement. I changed some of the fittings around in the loop order and I think I’ve got it how I want it. Of course my reservoir is still backordered, so if anyone has a spare Bitspower Z Multi 40 Ice Black or maybe even a Technofront Nano Black lying around, let me know. For these shots I left the back panels off so you could get a better view of the angle of the fittings and a better idea of the path of the would-be loop.

7966292636_37f9c3d269.jpg

As you can probably imagine, it was quite the puzzle, but everything just fits. At this point I’ve taken it apart and put it back together about as many times as an army grunt disassembles and reassembles his weapon in basic training, so I know how it all fits together. The tube run from the CPU to GPU might be the world’s shortest (anyone have any ideas on just using fittings?) And yes, the fan blades on those AP-15s up top will turn—just barely!

Opposite view, sorry if it’s a bit blurry:

7968076166_8d801e3bb0.jpg

Now, for a poll:

I’ve gone push-pull intake with the front 120 rad. Should I do push-pull for the 240 rad up top, putting fans on top of the case, or should I leave it as is with everything in the case? Please vote!

Thanks again for reading. Now comes the daunting task of getting all the cables run neatly. Yikes!
 
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post #14 of 63
Really nice build! I like the blackout theme! Definitely subbed...

As for push/pull, I would think it would depend on your OC. I did a mod where I cut the frames of a couple of AP-15s for my Prodigy builds and it is turning out really nice. If it was me, I'd do P/P anyways...this is OCN after all biggrin.gif
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post #15 of 63
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by longroadtrip View Post

Really nice build! I like the blackout theme! Definitely subbed...
As for push/pull, I would think it would depend on your OC. I did a mod where I cut the frames of a couple of AP-15s for my Prodigy builds and it is turning out really nice. If it was me, I'd do P/P anyways...this is OCN after all biggrin.gif

Thanks, I can't believe I hadn't seen your build yet. Subbed right back at ya! So, did you have to cut the AP-15s to fit them on top like that? Or was it just a looks thing? Definitely going to be checking out your build log when it comes time to do the window(s) on mine.
 
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post #16 of 63
They fit stock but would have had to be mounted from the top. I did that so I could mount them from underneath, but still have room for P/P. The aesthetics was another reason. I've got to upload another update that I am preparing (working 80-90 hours a week right now) but they have a stainless steel ring around them now and the top plate has been cut too so the fans are recessed into it.

A real easy way to debur your dremel cuts is to get one of the grinding wheels they make. I use these and they do the trick. Just run it along at an angle on both sides of the cut and a quick run on the edge...good to go with no cut fingers...
Edited by longroadtrip - 9/9/12 at 9:10pm
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post #17 of 63
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by longroadtrip View Post

They fit stock but would have had to be mounted from the top. I did that so I could mount them from underneath, but still have room for P/P. The aesthetics was another reason. I've got to upload another update that I am preparing (working 80-90 hours a week right now) but they have a stainless steel ring around them now and the top plate has been cut too so the fans are recessed into it.
A real easy way to debur your dremel cuts is to get one of the grinding wheels they make. I use these and they do the trick. Just run it along at an angle on both sides of the cut and a quick run on the edge...good to go with no cut fingers...

Thanks! +Rep from my finger.
 
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post #18 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by longroadtrip View Post

As for push/pull, I would think it would depend on your OC. I did a mod where I cut the frames of a couple of AP-15s for my Prodigy builds and it is turning out really nice. If it was me, I'd do P/P anyways...this is OCN after all biggrin.gif

That's definitely the way to do Push AP-15's if you're going to! smile.gif (well that or the amazing Sons of Anarchy prodigy build by another OCN'er. Friggin' sweet that was)

I'd agree that it depends on your desired OC (for both GPU & CPU). I'd support getting the fans - you can make it look awesome, it gives you more thermal headroom, and this is OCN - on the caveat that you get fan grills. With cats [and any other small living thing], I'm always wary of leaving a very easy way to harm themselves (and beautiful GT's!) on my desk ;p
post #19 of 63
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by decali View Post

I'd support getting the fans - you can make it look awesome, it gives you more thermal headroom, and this is OCN - on the caveat that you get fan grills. With cats [and any other small living thing], I'm always wary of leaving a very easy way to harm themselves (and beautiful GT's!) on my desk ;p

Good point! As you can tell from the first pic of my latest update, our cat does like to get up on things. I can usually only get him to go away if I start spraying the can of compressed air. Then he's like, sonic.gif
 
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i7 3930k ASUS Rampage IV Extreme 3-Way GTX 780 SLI 16GB Dominator GT 2133 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 512GB 3x Alphacool UT60 Windows 7 Home Premium HP ZR30w 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch II (Browns) Corsair AX1200 Case Labs M8 Zowie FK 
Mouse PadAudio
Steelseries QcK Corsair SP2500 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500k @ 4.6  Asrock Z77E-ITX XFX 7970 GE @ 1215/1650 Samsung 8GB @ 2133 9-10-10-26 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Crucial M4 512GB Swiftech Apogee Drive II Swiftech Komodo 7900 Swiftech MCR220-XP + MCR120-XP 
CoolingCoolingMonitorKeyboard
GT AP-15s (Black) Tecnofront Nano (Black) HP ZR30w (2560x1600) Filco Majestouch II (Browns) 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
SeaSonic X650 Gold Bitfenix Prodigy (Black) Razer Deathadder 3500p Razer Goliathus 
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mITX rig
(16 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3930k ASUS Rampage IV Extreme 3-Way GTX 780 SLI 16GB Dominator GT 2133 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 512GB 3x Alphacool UT60 Windows 7 Home Premium HP ZR30w 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch II (Browns) Corsair AX1200 Case Labs M8 Zowie FK 
Mouse PadAudio
Steelseries QcK Corsair SP2500 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500k @ 4.6  Asrock Z77E-ITX XFX 7970 GE @ 1215/1650 Samsung 8GB @ 2133 9-10-10-26 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Crucial M4 512GB Swiftech Apogee Drive II Swiftech Komodo 7900 Swiftech MCR220-XP + MCR120-XP 
CoolingCoolingMonitorKeyboard
GT AP-15s (Black) Tecnofront Nano (Black) HP ZR30w (2560x1600) Filco Majestouch II (Browns) 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
SeaSonic X650 Gold Bitfenix Prodigy (Black) Razer Deathadder 3500p Razer Goliathus 
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post #20 of 63
I vote for not go with push/pull. Prodigy is already a big SFF case. More fans outside defeats the SFF purpose. biggrin.gif
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] CattleProd - Black-on-Black Watercooled Bitfenix Prodigy Gaming Build