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[Work Log] Switch 810 Water Cooling with Full Sized 420mm Radiator: Black/Green Machine - Page 2

post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
Update

I have been hard at work last weekend on this trying to get this finished up. I painted some of the trim of my case and getting the cable management squared away but have also ran into some unexpected issues. The painting on the front panel went very smooth and turned out great. I wish I could say the same on the top part of the case. I accidentally held the can of spray paint too close to the top trim doh.gif and got some dripping. I sanded it off and proceeded to repaint it but when it dried, I noticed more problems and the paint had started to peel off so I decided just to strip all the paint off to re-prime and start again fresh. The top part is slated to be painted this weekend.

I proceeded to wire management to only find after completion that my Phobya PWM splitters that I bought are still causing the fan connector to slip out of the housing causing them not to work despite the quick fix by using duct tape to keep them from slipping out. Noticed that 2 pull fans were dead in the water and the PWM splitter was to blame. I could test this pretty quickly since most of the connectors on the top are easy to access but my push fans are a different story and I am going to end up having to take the rad out to get at them which involves draining the entire loop mad.gif At the same time, I need to come up with a solution to keep my pull fans from hitting the top of the case when ever i crank them up past 50% speed.

Even though I am still having some minor issues with the painting, fans, etc... I leave you all with some pics

Front Panel Trim thumb.gif Turned out great and I learned that the entire trim can be taken out easily by unfastening a bunch of small screws. By doing this, I did not have to tape anything off.













XSPC Raystom Lit With Green LED's thumb.gif



More to come soon smile.gif
post #12 of 21
Nice! I am selling my FrozenQ Dual Bay Res (green helix) if you are interested. (Used for two weeks and realized I need my bays.) JW. I am doing the green thing too and seeing if FrozenQ will make a reservation for me that looks like a beaker. Gettin' Mayhem to make me a "Toxic Waste" dye.

Love the sleeving job you did, looks flawless! Or is that extension cables? I still need to sleeve my PSU. You live in a nice neighborhood btw hahahaha!

So big question. How do you remove the fans off of their shrouds? I tried with the Switch case fans and it just broke.
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post #13 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaSushi2 View Post

Nice! I am selling my FrozenQ Dual Bay Res (green helix) if you are interested. (Used for two weeks and realized I need my bays.) JW. I am doing the green thing too and seeing if FrozenQ will make a reservation for me that looks like a beaker. Gettin' Mayhem to make me a "Toxic Waste" dye.
Love the sleeving job you did, looks flawless! Or is that extension cables? I still need to sleeve my PSU. You live in a nice neighborhood btw hahahaha!
So big question. How do you remove the fans off of their shrouds? I tried with the Switch case fans and it just broke.

Sorry for the lack of updates I have been very busy.

I am done buying WC parts for the time being. The cables are pre-sleeved extensions (the 24 Pin, PCI-E, EPS) made by mod smart and the sleeving is known as cobra cable which is a plastic type material. I bought a couple sizes of this stuff to sleeve fans and other cables. I really did not like sleeving with this stuff and the most frustrating part of this stuff was when I measured it out, it ended up coming up short since it compresses a lot once you get it on the wire.

As for getting the fan blades off, they are a simple sleeve bearing. When you peel the sticker off the back, there will be the white plastic lock washer that you have to lift out. I used 2 very small fat head screwdrivers to lift it off. Under that there will be a small rubber washer which again take your screwdriver and lift that out. After you have these 2 out, the fan blades will come right off. Don't loose these 2 pieces.

When you go to paint, make sure you cover up the opening and the sleeve. I cut some cardboard into a circle with a xacto blade and slide that over the sleeve. Also, when i put the fans back on, I used a small drop of light oil.

As of 3 days ago, this project is now completed. I am now in the process of going though the pics so stay tuned.
post #14 of 21
Thread Starter 
Update - Top Trim Painted

Finally got around to painting the top part of my case. It was to windy to paint the last couple weekends. I tired painting this part at the same time as I did my front panel but decided to redo it because of some paint dripping and chipping. I decided to strip all the paint off, re-prime, and re-paint it. This time it turned out great.





Minor Changes

I got some first hand experience last week draining my loop for the first time. I needed to fix some of my rad fans (pull fans) from scrapping against the top part of my case and this would happen when I brought them past 50% power. One of my push fans was making a strange thumping sound. I found a solution to this problem which was to put some rubber washers that I got from Frozencpu to put between the fan and the mounting surface. The rubber washer did the trick except for one of my pull fans and the problem was that I drilled the hole a little too big which caused the washer not to work. For that one, I put some folded paper in the corners of the fans to lift them up a little bit. Lets just say that it wokred smile.gif and I have no more scrapping or thumping sounds from my fans.

One of the changes that I made was to one of the fittings coming off my rad closest to the side panel. I changed it from a 45deg to a 90 because, my rear 120mm was was really tight to the point which it was pinching the tubing but no enough to kink it and I could not use my cold cathode ring fan that I originally wanted to use to light up the inside. The 90deg made it easier to install this fan and I think it looks much better.

Before



After



New Fans

I was short a 140mm fan so I decided to get a couple of Areocool Sharks



I thought that the cable on the bottom was a extension but it turns out to be a resistor to bring down the RPM's of the fan



I will try to get a pic of these all lit up in the case later.

I had this Logisys 120mm Cold Cathode Ring Fan ever since I ordered my parts but could not fit it in with the 45deg coming off the rad. Also I extended the wires coming off the cold cathode part of the ring fan because it was too short to fit into the inverter for my cable management plans. I decided to get out my soldering iron which later went on the fritz when I was close to finishing and lengthen the wires so I can get them behind the mobo.





I ran out of black sleeving so i had to use some green sleeving to sleeve up the rainbow pwm cable

post #15 of 21
Turned out really nice. Congrats!
post #16 of 21
Nice work:thumb: I wish my spray painting skills are as good as yours...
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post #17 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

Nice work:thumb: I wish my spray painting skills are as good as yours...

Thanks I didn't have a spray booth so I pretty much put the parts on top of a box and painted away. The trim that I painted green was very annoying to paint. i had to redo my top part 3 times since I over sprayed in a spot, the second time, I thought that 24 hours was good enough to start assembling it back to the case, this caused the paint to peel in some areas. Third time around, I let it dry for a good 4 days and it was fine.

I am actually not happy about how the whole res and pump assembly is connected. Sometime in the future, i am planning on getting a pump top and connecting my tube res to it via a coupler and going to take that time to build in a drain.
post #18 of 21
Thread Starter 
Revision 2 - Adding The GPU, Enhancements and Fixes.

It has been a long time since I have updated this. For the last 7 months my CPU only loop has been operating great but there has been some minor issues with some of the fans; mostly the top ones that are scraping against the top part of the case and a bearing grinding sound from one of the bottom push fans. Also I decided to do something about my plug temp sensor that's located in one of my rads because it was causing some minor restriction. I learned this from watching some Singularity Computers build logs on YouTube (can't remember which one) about plug temp sensors depending where they are placed. I ended up putting the sensor on a 15mm extension to solve the problem. The restriction was not enough to cause performance issues with just a CPU loop but I thought was a good idea to eliminate that variable when I have my GPU+CPU in the loop.

On to the good stuff.

The Goodies

This pic was really bad, I had a tough time getting my camera to focus. Pretty much what you see is a bunch of various Bitspower fittings, D5 Pump Top V2 acrylic version, 250mm Upgrade kit acrylic version, D5 Dress Kit Black Sparkle decoupling material for 140mm fans 3x Modright ninjas 4mm thick and 3x Phobya shroud/decoupling 7mm thick for the bottom push fans, and I will let the last pic speak for its self.




Preparing The GPU

I had no intention of putting this GPU in the loop but when i seen that Danger Den was going out of business, the deals on a GPU block was just too good to pass up. I missed the first round of 70% off but one day I was looking on the site, they still had a 570/580 block in stock so i snatched it up and it got to my door. I really wanted the copper but they only had the black nickle one available. I was stunned on how good it looked.




Mounted on the card. Had to do some minor modding to the EVGA Backplate even had to break out the rotary tool to get it to fit. Instructions were simple (also watched a video on it) basically put thermal pads on the VRM's and TIM on GPU/Memory.




New Res Assembly


One of the things that I really did not like was how my res was attached to my pump. The stock D5 Pump housing is very limiting as in terms of mounting options from the get go since you only have a fixed inlet and outlet to work with. When i was first building this I realized I should have get a pump top from the get go instead of paying the extra 10 bucks to get the D5 with the tapped G 1/4" threads. I got the Idea to use the Bitspower upgrade kit mounted on a UN-Z 140mm fan mount from watching "Singularity Computers Client Build 7 Dark Matter" which was built in the NZXT Switch 810. I really liked the way it was mounted.

I went with the 250mm version since i was not mounting this on a rad and I did not like the idea of so much empty space that would be left behind by my old 150mm. Also a small oversight, I did not notice at the time when I bought it was that the top part of the res did not have the 3 hole multi option doh.gif so i had to reuse the black top from my 150mm res. If I did not do this, I would have no way of filling the system. I could have connected the the return line to the pump top but this would cause the res assembly to act as a large T-line and would have been a pain to fill and bleed. For the Dress Kit everywhere i looked, they were out of the black version so i settled on the Black Sparkle.



Mayhems Mint Green

The 2 bottles of mint green that i got were 2 different shades of green. One was darker then the other when i looked at them from the bottle. I poured them into some clear cups and cup on the far right was what the coolant looked like when I mixed them together. I decided just go with it and mix them together and alter it later since my loop required around 1.4L. Later I learned from the Mayhems Users thread that this was normal since they make them in weekly batches by hand from the ground up.



The Leak Test


Pretty much standard procedure to make sure the loop was not leaking and took the time to get all the air out of the system. I let it sit for 8 hours and then booted up the system to run a few tests for a few hours to make sure that the blocks were making good contact and that the temps were in check. 12 hours later when I was working on cable management/completing the build, I did a final check for leaks around fittings and I found very small one in a unexpected place; it was on the base where my res threads into my pump top. It was a very small amount of fluid seeping though. The O-ring was not getting compressed very well so i gave the res a good 1/4 turn which was very easy to do with all the fluid in it. Screwing into acrylic makes me very nervous and I was able to stop that leak.



Revision 2 Final Pics


The coolant seems a little too yellow green and i plan to fix this at a later date along with replacing that dreadful standard side panel plexi. Sorry about the pic quality of some of these as it has been pretty cloudy outside for the past week and will take some better ones at a later date.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





post #19 of 21
I don't know if I missed it, but did you do the sleeving?

If you didn't, what make is it?
 
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post #20 of 21
Hi, quick question, what is the name for the spray painting can? I have krypton fusion for plastic spray cans an I'm not sure. What is the spray paint coating you used to protect the spray paint and to make it glossy?
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