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PSU rear Switch mod advice, electrical assistane needed!!!

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Hello ocn, I'm currently working on a new build using an old Xigmatek case i had kicking around and modifying the snot out of it!

Anyways, I've already fabricated this set of switches:
1D9C5966-5AAA-405C-9456-D9AE564AEBCA-2289-000003A8975F442D.jpg
B2EEB4E3-8657-4D26-9864-E0F9BC0BFB9E-2289-000003A8A1B457A6.jpg

Im going to put that panel on this (some major cutting still needed):
86FD1CCB-A87C-4E0D-8303-FF96517AC268-2289-000003A8AC773480.jpg

My plan is this, Im going to use both two switches together for power and the other will either power the lighting system or something else...its still in development lol
As you can see ive already got the front plate cut, eventually im going to put both the power button and the reset button on that.
The toggle switches on the top will hopefully work like this:
1 switch will act as a sort of safety switch for the power button, so you have to flick it to make the power button work
Now with the other one, im intending to move the back switch of the psu to here so you have a two stage switch ignition system lol

Is this a foolish idea or is it as simple as i think it is, as in just soldering extra cable to the contacts in the psu and then re-routing the cable to the front panel?
Also, those switches have leds in them, how/can i hook them up? i might just not bother but some advice from an expert would be helpful as im just a nerd with too much time on his hands!

Okay I just got my new psu apart and im a bit stumped, the switches i have look like this:

5742C80A-5315-4A7A-9D8F-71EE4EE961DB-2289-000003AE5564AC8F.jpg

While the switch in need to take out and replace is wired up like this:

D3F110C2-F668-4344-8BA4-4E874FE6F8E7-2289-000003ADF99BCCAA.jpg
As far as I can see I have 2 posts on the switch I want to use but 4 connections on the psu switch, what goes where!!!!

Can someone please help me with this as I really don't want to destroy this psu, its brand new!
Edited by Jim McNasty - 8/31/12 at 5:03am
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post #2 of 5
Solder The two blue (neutral wires) together. And text the brown (live wires ) to the switch on your panel. Btw make sure the switches you are using are rated for whatever your mains voltage is ( 120V USA or 240V UK
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post #3 of 5
I really don't think this is a good idea. For safety reasons, I wouldn't really want those kind of voltages present inside my case. But if you are going to do this you need to make sure that the cable/wires you use can handle it, and that the switches can handle it. You also need to make sure that the wires are really well connected and tightly secured in both ends, otherwise the wires might get really warm and potentially catch fire. You see, there are a lot of precautions you have to take when working with these kinds of voltages as compared to normal pc voltages which are pretty much harmless. You would also need to make sure that there are no metall edges or sharp edges in contact with the wires inside the case, otherwise the insulation may eventually fail and the wire come in contact with the case and cause a "big bang"tongue.gif The case is grounded so it would probably not be dangerous, but it would be annoying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by afropelican View Post

Solder The two blue (neutral wires) together. And text the brown (live wires ) to the switch on your panel.

I'm not sure if that would be advisable. I interpret the photo of that switch as blue/brown into the switch and blue/brown out of the switch. It would make sense if that switch disconnects both power phases when in the off position, in which case you would need a 2-pole switch that has four connectors if you want to connect it in the same way.

edit; I guess it would work if you just use a 1-pole switch and connect the two blue wires, but I personally would prefer to have a switch that disconnected both phases.
Edited by Op125 - 9/1/12 at 11:10am
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post #4 of 5
Thread Starter 
Hi guys, thanks for the advice biggrin.gif
Ive bought some much higher quality switches which are rated for 250V.....not 12V!!!
They are 4 pin switches like the original so in theory all i have to do is extend each cable and solder it exactly like it was in the original switch.....in theory lol
Ive butchered a few spare power leads i have kicking around for the wires, so the cable I'm using is proper mains rated cables!
Ive already De-soldered the switch (no turning back now!) and soldered on 2 out of 4 extension cables which have been soldered and each join sealed in electrical tape.
Once the other 2 are soldered Im going to braid each cable with some spare MDPC braiding I have in my spares drawer and route it through the case and fit the switch, heat shrinking each post once soldered.
I have to hang fire until tomorrow as i need a new soldering iron, i shall post more pictures when im done.

Any more feedback would be great, im pretty much making this up as i go along but im not stupid, im wanting this to be safe as well as cool to look at!

J
Edited by Jim McNasty - 9/2/12 at 4:23am
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post #5 of 5
As I mentioned in my previous post, the most important things (in my opinion) are:

1# Make the connections really good. Because if you make a bad electrical connection somewhere in the circuit, it will create electrical resistance in that connection, and that will develop heat where the bad connection is and could end up creating a fire(worst case scenario).

2# Use some electrical tape or something non conductive, to reinforce the insulation where wear and tear may penetrate the insulation over time. It doesn't even have to be a sharp edge for this to happen. You would be amazed of how a metal edge can destroy the insulation on cables given enough time.

3# Make sure that the case is properly grounded. Because, since you are now altering the psu, just make sure that it is still grounded as it should be. If you have this kind of voltage in you case and the case isn't grounded properly for some reason, then that could potentially kill you, if one of the conductors come in contact with the case.
Edited by Op125 - 9/2/12 at 7:00am
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