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Getting my 600T wet :D - Page 2

post #11 of 33
Thread Starter 
Oh, that doesn't sound good.. Damn

So will I be okay with what I've purchased then? Or will I need to get something else Like a kill coil?
   
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post #12 of 33
Thread Starter 
-_- cant belive i never read the water properly, its de-ionised, not distilled...

after doing some reading, it sounds like using that isn't a very good idea. especially with copper.. gah

(But after some more reading, lots of people on here say that de-ionised is maybe better than distilled? is the internet lying to me or what haha? )
Quote:
Copper and many other common materials are not compatible with DI water and will contaminate it. When you design a system using DI water, be sure to specify DI-compatible materials such as stainless steel or nickel.
From Here

help?
Edited by kepiinskii - 9/2/12 at 3:29pm
   
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post #13 of 33
Deionized water is made by exposing tap or natural spring water to electrically charged resins,
which bind to the mineral ions or salts in the water, including calcium, iron, copper, sodium
bromide and chloride, and remove them.

Distilled water is also demineralized water, but the minerals are removed through distillation,
which involves converting spring water to steam. Since the minerals are too heavy, they
remain behind while the vapor or mist is collected as it cools and condenses to create
distilled water. If distilled correctly, the water should contain only oxygen and hydrogen
molecules, have a PH level of 7 and contain no other minerals, contaminants or gases.

so the best is distilled not de-ionized. because de-ionized can still have crap in the mix.
medical or food grade distilled thats 90%+ is best to use (grocer or drug store) for cost.

the nasties in the water period react with the copper, zinc solder, brass and other
involved in the loop creating a bacteria colony. thats a biocide to prevent. adding other
metals can create a glavanic effect, having neutrons and electrons swaping spit and
creating some potion that can become electrically charged and casue deteriation.

i use the mayhems X1 for all the nasties and get a great support team if i create
a new species of crud in a closed loop. some offer a glycol solution to combat the
effects and it works, but i want the best, so i get the best...

airdeano
post #14 of 33
Thread Starter 
Cheers for that, very informative..

So with what I have, will my loop be fine?

Or shall I just use it for a short while until I get some cash and then get a pre mix coolant?

I'm also hoping that my delivery will either be tomorrow or thursday do I'll finally be able to get some pictures and updates of my rig smile.gif

(+rep too for the info man)
Edited by kepiinskii - 9/4/12 at 5:34pm
   
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post #15 of 33
yeah, i'd run it.. hell.. flush it every other month until you get what it takes
to kill the koodies in the loop..

airdeano
post #16 of 33
Thread Starter 
My stuff finally got delivered xD
(the packaging was horrid, but everything is fine so that's a +)

I'll get some pictures up pretty soon, but I don't think I'll be doing much else with it, I may mount the CPU block and map out my loop some more though.

Also, as I'm now intending to purchase some pre mix coolant, what do y'all reccomend? I've been pondering the EK EKoolant, as it's relatively cheap but is it any good?
   
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post #17 of 33
Thread Starter 
Got some pictures biggrin.gif
(Quality is horrible, soz)



















   
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post #18 of 33
thread title sounds so naughty
NASzi's Stryker
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post #19 of 33
Thread Starter 
;D
   
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post #20 of 33

Your thread title sounds like a super dirty geek... xD

 
≡ Snowbaru ≡
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≡ Snowbaru ≡
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