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G1 Sniper3 Project

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 



I just bought a Gigabyte G1 Sniper3 and am going to be doing a big water cooled build with it.

I'm looking around though and there doesn't seem to be too much out there about this board and water cooling. So anyone with experience or knowledge that could help it would be greatly appreciated! thumb.gif

Questions: Are there any board blocks (chipset, mosfet, etc.) known to work?
If not is there any reason why I shouldn't try to put at least a chipset block on? I've never used a block on a motherboard, are chipset blocks basically universal or what should I be looking for?

I'm sure more questions will come up, but that's it for now.

Reps for help, thanks!
 
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post #2 of 10
Sorry to rain on your parade but watercooling tthe board is a huge waste. The VRMs are going to run just fine with the stock heatsink, even with a high overclock. The PLX chip (that's what's under where normally the NB is) doesn't get hot like NF200 and is fine to be cooled just from the stock heatsink, and lastly Z77 under the heatsink is going to do fine. I'm not saying you shouldn't watercool, it's just I probably wouldn't do the board or RAM. Just stick with CPU and GPUs.

Sorry to be lame but maybe someone else can help you with what blocks will work.
    
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post #3 of 10
I have this board with my CPU and GPUs water-cooled and while I can't recommend any specific blocks for the board itself, I can say that there is little (if any) benefit to water-cooling the board.
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post #4 of 10
nice motherboard, honestly, you don't need to watercool the chipset/south bridge at all since you don't really push the blck on z77 boards unless you are going for records
vrm water cooling can give you a little boost, but it's usually not that much since that board has 12 power phases, honestly it's not worth it to watercooler the motherboard

and you can't watercool the VRM without doing something to cool the south bridge since the heat pipe for the vrm connects to the south bridge heatsink, though if you want to still watercool it, you can use koolance's vrm short block/long block+cooling plate setup i don't know which ones you'll need but you can measure that yourself when you get the board, and this for the chipset/south bridge, though, you should do some measuring for that one too, and i'm not sure how big of fittings you can use with the chipset block
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post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dopamin3 View Post

Sorry to rain on your parade but watercooling tthe board is a huge waste. The VRMs are going to run just fine with the stock heatsink, even with a high overclock. The PLX chip (that's what's under where normally the NB is) doesn't get hot like NF200 and is fine to be cooled just from the stock heatsink, and lastly Z77 under the heatsink is going to do fine. I'm not saying you shouldn't watercool, it's just I probably wouldn't do the board or RAM. Just stick with CPU and GPUs.
Sorry to be lame but maybe someone else can help you with what blocks will work.

Yeah I understand there is no need, however there is want! lol thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FallenFaux View Post

I have this board with my CPU and GPUs water-cooled and while I can't recommend any specific blocks for the board itself, I can say that there is little (if any) benefit to water-cooling the board.

Yeah, thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post

nice motherboard, honestly, you don't need to watercool the chipset/south bridge at all since you don't really push the blck on z77 boards unless you are going for records
vrm water cooling can give you a little boost, but it's usually not that much since that board has 12 power phases, honestly it's not worth it to watercooler the motherboard
and you can't watercool the VRM without doing something to cool the south bridge since the heat pipe for the vrm connects to the south bridge heatsink, though if you want to still watercool it, you can use koolance's vrm short block/long block+cooling plate setup i don't know which ones you'll need but you can measure that yourself when you get the board, and this for the chipset/south bridge, though, you should do some measuring for that one too, and i'm not sure how big of fittings you can use with the chipset block

Ok cool thanks for the links. Is Koolance the only brand that does anything for this setup? I really want to use an acrylic top chipset block and preferably from EK. I already have EK blocks for CPU and 3 GPU's. Not that I couldn't use something else it would just look better.

I'm thinking of doing a dual loop setup with the 3 GPU's in one loop and the cpu, and anything else I can water cool in another. It's not really about function as much as aesthetics.

Thanks for the help, reps given!
 
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post #6 of 10
you are pretty much stuck with koolance if you aren't going to machine your own blocks, you could try modding an existing block to fit, by soldering on a piece of acrylic flat bar, that would work for the vrm cooling, but it's not really recommended
i'm not sure if ek makes/made a block that fit the southbridge for the sniper 3 you'd have to have the board to take measurements to be sure
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post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post

you are pretty much stuck with koolance if you aren't going to machine your own blocks, you could try modding an existing block to fit, by soldering on a piece of acrylic flat bar, that would work for the vrm cooling, but it's not really recommended
i'm not sure if ek makes/made a block that fit the southbridge for the sniper 3 you'd have to have the board to take measurements to be sure

Hmm yeah probably not going to be soldering anything myself. I may get the Koolance blocks then and paint them or something...
 
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post #8 of 10
if you do paint them put some cheap plugs in the holes so you have a clean o-ring surface for fittings, and you don't get paint inside the blocks

and i'd also mask off the bottom of the block, where the block mounts to the plate, and the bottom of the plate just so you don't add layers of paint to the places that have transfer the heat from the vrm to the block
Edited by somebadlemonade - 9/1/12 at 2:01pm
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post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post

if you do paint them put some cheap plugs in the holes so you have a clean o-ring surface for fittings, and you don't get paint inside the blocks
and i'd also mask off the bottom of the block, where the block mounts to the plate, and the bottom of the plate just so you don't add layers of paint to the places that have transfer the heat from the vrm to the block

Oh I would definitely be very careful. wink.gif
 
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post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Alright guys new question:

I am doing TRI SLI 580's with EK FC 580 GTX blocks. What should I use to connect them? For my sli I just connected them with tubing and fittings. But I feel like with TRI that will just be a PITA!

So should I get a bridge or these:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10959/ex-tub-689/Bitspower_G14_D-Plug_Male_Male_Coupler_Set_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C07.html?tl=c101s873b145

or these:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16399/ex-tub-1316/Bitspower_Adjustable_Aqua_Link_Pipe_I_22-31mm_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-BSDG14AALPI.html?tl=c101s873b145

Thanks again!
 
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