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# Home made reservoir - MacGyver style - Page 4

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren9

I can't help but think with that picture and explanation that when you close the loop your just closing in a bit of the atmosphere and it will behave in the same way, open or closed, pump running or not - the pump doesn't provide any of the force necessary to "repel" the atmospheric (or closed loop) pressure, the water does that all by its self. Is a WC pump really powerful enough to compress/expand a fluid by any noticeable amount?

You're not wrong about closing a piece of the atmosphere. That's why the amount of air inside the res is so important. If there's no air, the res will act almost identical to a T-res or having no res at all: your only energy loss is from direction (which is tiny by comparison). If there is tons of air, though, then the air has to be at the same pressure as the water (which is the left-over pump pressure after you subtract the loop restriction (this is where the spring analogy comes in). This is why you see the reservoir go way down in loops that haven't been bled: the air is compressing after the pump and decompressing in the reservoir.

When the reservoir is open to the whole atmosphere, that's an insane amount of air to compress, so 100% of the pump's extra pressure is dissipated and the pump inlet has an effective pressure of 0 (since the net pressure of the inlet and outlet from the atmosphere is 0). With a closed loop void of air, water does not compress much at all, so the pump inlet has an initial pressure of 0, but after the pump runs the inlet has a pressure greater than 0 which increases the total pressure and will continue to increase the flow until the loop pressure drop equals the total amount of pressure needed to make the inlet be at pressure 0. You can actually solve for this mathematically using calculus, but I'm lazy.

It's easier to think about the other way: what happens when a loop's restriction exceeds the maximum pressure able to be produced by the pump? It creates a big negative pressure on the backside of the pump that can even make some tubing pinch closed.
Edited by Electrocutor - 9/11/12 at 9:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrocutor

You're not wrong about closing a piece of the atmosphere. That's why the amount of air inside the res is so important. If there's no air, the res will act almost identical to a T-res or having no res at all: your only energy loss is from direction (which is tiny by comparison). If there is tons of air, though, then the air has to be at the same pressure as the water (which is the left-over pump pressure after you subtract the loop restriction (this is where the spring analogy comes in). This is why you see the reservoir go way down in loops that haven't been bled: the air is compressing after the pump and decompressing in the reservoir.
When the reservoir is open to the whole atmosphere, that's an insane amount of air to compress, so 100% of the pump's extra pressure is dissipated and the pump inlet has an effective pressure of 0 (since the net pressure of the inlet and outlet from the atmosphere is 0). With a closed loop void of air, water does not compress much at all, so the pump inlet has an initial pressure of 0, but after the pump runs the inlet has a pressure greater than 0 which increases the total pressure and will continue to increase the flow until the loop pressure drop equals the total amount of pressure needed to make the inlet be at pressure 0. You can actually solve for this mathematically using calculus, but I'm lazy.

It's easier to think about the other way: what happens when a loop's restriction exceeds the maximum pressure able to be produced by the pump? It creates a big negative pressure on the backside of the pump that can even make some tubing pinch closed.

To me that doesn't explain anything, when you close the res (or T-Line) your trapping the air inside at atmospheric pressure (it's equal to the outside pressure or an open res), there isn't any mechanism to evacuate it or add more - why does it suddenly behave differently when you open/close the lid? Especially if you open and close the lid with the pump running, what changes then?
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It's about the air. No air in the res means there is nothing that can compress or decompress. The atmosphere is a vast sphere of compressible air. It's probably not worth discussing anyway because most people run their loops having their restriction somewhere near the maximum for the their pump anyway, so the point is moot.
Wow havnt been on the forums in some days, good that you guys are discussing here =3

An update to my "MacGyver" ress, i have had to refill the ress as the water has going down everyday, so im gessing the water has gone up in air.

my solution to this was to take plastic foil to cover the top and it hasnt gone down since, so if you run with an open ress then you will need to refill everynow and again, so i would not advise running an open ress for along period of time.

But with the ress that Kokin posted on side 2, is a good ress, got it in my Meanmachine rig. i dont have any tools to massure what is best, open ress, closed ress, Tline, ress. But would be nice to find out if someone has tryed it all with propper messuing tools so see if there is good or any at all increse in pressure with a ress that is like Kokin posted, and if so then how much.

Edit: took å picture of the condensation when i turned off the rig now ... and cant add it from my phone now, so will add it tomorrow then.

Edited by Maker - 9/12/12 at 1:40am
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This discussion has flaws.It is based on the idea that head pressure is recovered when the water is compressed a bit.The flaw is that when water is compressed it becomes more dense and water that is more dense resists flowing.You end up losing what you think you gained
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btw i think ithis is a great discussion because i have often wondered why the small closed loop coolers seem to perform well even tho they have
small hoses and no res. Im currently attempting to open up a closed loop cooler to add a gpu block but i didnt want to loose the efficently of the design.
Im new to water cooling so im trying to keep close to the original design by putting in a mini res to purge the air then use quick disconnects to remove the res when finished. Im actually doing the gpu mod putting the pump/water block on the first card and the gpu block on the 2nd card. There are obviously
onther factors to consider but the idea of smaller diameter hoses increasing pressure is why i went with 1/4 hoses and fittings and a rad that is 49mm thick.
this is an experiment and i dont know how successful it will be but I shoudl be done in a few days either way.

To op i saw some cool closed res units that someone made out of a wate bottle and a bear shaped honey (plastic ) container. Actually looked cool.
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