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Advice on external rad housing

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Hi,

Been following the watercooling section here for a while now and decided it's probably one of the better places to ask for advice/opinions on something I'm in the process of building.

I've had a watercooling loop for a few years now, though for something like the last two years it's not been fitted as I took it out and then was stuck in the cycle of waiting for the next better component to come out before upgrading.

Anyhow, I've now taken the plunge on the upgrade and decided that I'd rather have my rad completely external (was previously on top of an Antec P182). My plan is to build an enclosure that can sit under my desk, and if I ever get the time, have the fans speed controlled based on the water temp.

This what my design will look like roughly.


- The frame is made from 5/8" x 5/8" x 1/8" channel, with some solid 5/8" x 5/8", and the corner braces are 3/8" x 3/8". When will they ever switch to metric measurements...
- The panels are 2mm sheet.
- The overall dimension are 517mm (~20.3") tall, 500mm (19.7") long, 180mm (7.1") wide.

I currently own a Thermochill PA120.3 (older 25mm spacing version), and was planning to buy an Alphacool UT60 420mm.

This is an image of the mount I was going to cut for the UT60 5/8" x 5/8" x 1/8" angle):


My plan is to fit both rads, though only attach fans to the UT60. Heated water will come into the UT60 first, then to the PA120.3, fans will be pushing. Will fit a temperature sensor to the PA120.3 output.
A good part of the design is to keep it quiet, so I plan to fit sound absorbing mat to the sides/top/bottom. There is a bit of an air-gap around the PA120.3.

It will only be cooling my 3570K initially (no block yet), though if I upgrade my graphics card in the future it would join the loop, or get its own UT60 in the enclosure. Pump is a D5.

I will use Koolance quick-disconnects at the PC end.

The grill will be something like this:
ebay link

I have a few question if anyone has any advice:
- I've currently planned for 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD hose. Given that there will be ~2 - 3m (80 - 120") of extra hose down and back, should I be looking at 1/2" ID?
- Would you recommend the UT60 420mm, or other?

- What 140mm fans would you recommend? I do plan to eventually speed control them, so they need to be happy/quiet with low volts. I've seen the Bgears recommended a few times. Was using Yate Loon on my PA120.3.

- Fan mounts? If I speed control them, there is a good chance that one or two fans will be spun-down when the PC is idle. I had planned to just use some of those rubber fan mounts, like these: http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Nanoxia-rubber-fan-mounting-bolts_17890.html

- What is used as an input filter on something like this? Not sure I want to go as ghetto as stretched stockings tongue.gif


Any other advice, please feel free to share. Have the majority of the materials now, but not started cutting since I can only make so many re-sizes.


Thanks!
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post #2 of 5
I once built a rad box using u-channels with 45-degree angle blocks like you have drawn, but have since abandoned that and now use a much simpler technique of filing-in the u-channel with flat stock.

LargeRadBox5.jpg

LargeRadBox1.jpg

New technique:

BackFrameJoint.jpg

Described here:

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost.php?p=2656717&postcount=14
post #3 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by obotNapalm View Post

I have a few question if anyone has any advice:
- I've currently planned for 3/8" ID / 5/8" OD hose. Given that there will be ~2 - 3m (80 - 120") of extra hose down and back, should I be looking at 1/2" ID?
- Would you recommend the UT60 420mm, or other?
- What 140mm fans would you recommend? I do plan to eventually speed control them, so they need to be happy/quiet with low volts. I've seen the Bgears recommended a few times. Was using Yate Loon on my PA120.3.
- Fan mounts? If I speed control them, there is a good chance that one or two fans will be spun-down when the PC is idle. I had planned to just use some of those rubber fan mounts, like these: http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Nanoxia-rubber-fan-mounting-bolts_17890.html
- What is used as an input filter on something like this? Not sure I want to go as ghetto as stretched stockings tongue.gif
Any other advice, please feel free to share. Have the majority of the materials now, but not started cutting since I can only make so many re-sizes.
Thanks!

1) Tube should be fine but 3/8 does restrict a bit. You can jump to 1/2" ID or split the difference and go 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD
2) UT60 is currently the king of rads per Martins last round of radiator tests.
3) Yates are great fans, nothing wrong there
4) Fan mounts, sure, those should work
5) Koolance has a nice filter like this here

post #4 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spotswood View Post

I once built a rad box using u-channels with 45-degree angle blocks like you have drawn, but have since abandoned that and now use a much simpler technique of filing-in the u-channel with flat stock.
...
Described here:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showpost.php?p=2656717&postcount=14

Hi Spotswood,

Funny you should mention your rad box, it was something I came across when doing a Google image search looking for inspiration. It was a good part of the reason for going with the channel method I have. It's a very nicely made unit!

I was wondering though, with your new method how to you bolt the cross-beam? The bolt with the small nut attached looks like it would block any screw coming in from the side?

Looking at my design I think I would be a lot better going with at least a triangle corner brace, and having all three screws go through. Unfortunately I've not got any aluminium to do it, so might have to scour ebay. Previous lot was bought from Aluminium Warehouse (UK), but a £15 delivery charge with that :/

Quote:
Originally Posted by RatDog View Post

1) Tube should be fine but 3/8 does restrict a bit. You can jump to 1/2" ID or split the difference and go 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD
2) UT60 is currently the king of rads per Martins last round of radiator tests.
3) Yates are great fans, nothing wrong there
4) Fan mounts, sure, those should work
5) Koolance has a nice filter like this here

Hi RatDog,

Sorry should have made point 5 a bit clearer! It's a fan filter I am after. Something to go across the entire intake to the enclosure to stop dust etc. getting in.
Thanks for the link on the Koolance filter though. I think I may actually fit one of those since my rad has been sitting with its ports open for a long time now, and filled with plasticiser etc.

I'm probably stuck with 3/8" or 1/2" due to the Koolance Quick-Disconnects. Think I will go with 3/8".

And that actually reminds me of another question. What are people in the UK using for tubing these days? I had used Tygon R3603 in the past, but it had a lot of plasticiser in it after a while. Duralene seems to be the recommended option but I can't find it anywhere here :/
Main PC
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-3570K ASUS MAXIMUS V GENE MSI R9 290 Gaming 4G Samsung Green 2 x 4GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Intel 520 120GB Intel 520 240GB Intel 730 480GB Pioneer BDR-207DBK 
OSMonitorMonitorPower
Windows 7 Pro x64 Samsung 226BW Viewsonic VA712b Enermax Galaxy DXX 850W 
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Main PC
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-3570K ASUS MAXIMUS V GENE MSI R9 290 Gaming 4G Samsung Green 2 x 4GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Intel 520 120GB Intel 520 240GB Intel 730 480GB Pioneer BDR-207DBK 
OSMonitorMonitorPower
Windows 7 Pro x64 Samsung 226BW Viewsonic VA712b Enermax Galaxy DXX 850W 
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post #5 of 5
^ The aluminum block was fastened into the u-channel with short self-threaded flat head bolts. I've since improved on that little detail by switching from a f.h. bolt to two 1-inch long spring/split pins (position ed above and below the hole drilled through the block). thumb.gif
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