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Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H F11 BIOS and issues with offset voltage overclocking 3570k

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Greetings. Since the guides here in this forum have been so helpful for the past several weeks as I worked to overclock my new 3570k system, I wanted to share some observations I've made along the way that might potentially help others using Gigabyte motherboards. Specifically, I've got the GA-Z77X-UD3H and I'm running the latest BIOS (F17).

Specs:
GA-Z77X-UD3H, F17 BIOS
CM Hyper 212+ cooler
i5 3570k currently at 4.4 Ghz

A great many guides and posts recommend using the offset voltage mode in order to allow your CPU to downclock and downvolt when idle, but I've had a LOT of problems with this on this particular board and bios. From what I can tell, the issue revolves around the base voltage that the offset value is applied to (for instance, if the base is 1.2 with offset of -.05, the final value would be 1.15). Here's the strange thing, though - this base value seems to change based on the cpu's multiplier. Up to 42x multiplier, I can get away with an offset of -.030, which results in my load voltages of 1.128 as reported in CPU-Z. If I bump the multiplier up, however, say from 42 to 44, with the same offset of -0.030 applied, my load voltage will now be over 1.2 v as reported in CPU-Z, and the temps reported by Core Temp are at least 10 degrees higher at load, perhaps more.

Okay, fine, so the offset at 44x seems to be measured relative to VID all of a sudden, rather than whatever voltage the motherboard was using at 42x (VID shows about 1.23 in Core Temp, so VID-(.03) equals the 1.2v I get in CPU-Z, at least that's my guess).

Well, after a lot of trial and error and many, many hours of stability testing, I found that my cpu can run at 44x just fine with a fixed voltage of 1.19v. So, in order to try and obtain this load voltage using offset mode, I head back into the bios and set my offset to -0.45 or so, which get's me pretty close. System boots fine, and under load the voltage is right where it needs to be, reporting 1.188 in CPU-Z. At this point I've also disabled C states since I've been told this can increase stability when using offset mode. An hour running Linx and everything is gravy, and my max core temps stay below 80c, which is the max temp I am willing to let it hit (personal preference).

I let the system idle for a while, though, and BSOD. According to CPU-Z, my IDLE voltages are dropping lower now. Before my idle voltages were above .8, now they're reporting lower, which I suspect is the source of the instability. C states are disabled right now, but C1E and EIST are still enabled - there doesn't seem to be much point disabling them if I'm using offset mode.

Also, I can't get back into the BIOS. I try a few times, no dice. Can boot Windows just fine, and as I said before, and it is stable during heavy load, though crashing at light load and idle.

I reset the CMOS and get back in and switch back to fixed voltage. Everything is fine once again.

What seems to be happening is this - the offset mode seems to be supplying inconsistent voltages, and this is somehow affected by the multiplier I choose.

As I said, the system is rock stable when I use a fixed voltage of 1.19 at 4.4Ghz, and it's also rock stable on "Auto" at 4.2Ghz. However, leaving voltage on "Auto" and bumping the multiplier back to 44x results in a load voltage of around 1.23v to 1.26v (a nearly .1v increase over the value at 42x), which is way more than i need, and results in much higher temps than I like.

So, at the end of the day, it seems that "Offset" mode is simply not working correctly with this motherboard and this BIOS for multipliers above 42. If anyone else is running a similar system and is struggling with stability above 4.2 Ghz, I suggest giving fixed voltage a try. Although it runs the full voltage of 1.19v through the chip at all times, my cpu still appears to be downclocking to 1.6 Ghz at idle and my idle temps are only about 1 degree higher than with offset voltage, and regular load temps are around 50 to 55 (gaming), with Linx hitting a maximum of 78 degrees over a 30 minute test.

The only thing I've not yet tried that I can think of is using the Turbo multipliers to overclock rather than the base multiplier. Unlike some boards, though, you cannot specify a different voltage offset for Turbo - on this board it appears to be automatic, and given the issues I've had so far, I'm a little wary of the boards "automatic" voltage adjustments biggrin.gif

If anyone sees a fault in my logic or an error I've made here, or has any other suggestions, I'm all ears!
Edited by hags2k - 9/11/12 at 10:55am
post #2 of 10
Hi. I have the same mobo and cpu as you, but this is my first pc capable of oc'ing. I am wondering if I just set the bios at the 4.2 ghz if my system will be stable and what can I expect from my system as well. I really don't want to get carried away and push it cause like I said I am a noob. My system consists of the ud3h mobo, i5 3570k, evga gtx 660 sc gpu, cooler master haf xb case, coolermaster n520 cpu cooler, xion 1000 watt psu and 8 gb of patriot viper 1600 MHz ram with an intel 180gb ssd and a small western digital 500 gb hdd
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have a very similar system to you - i even have the same graphics card and cpu cooler.

So, in my case to get 4.2 Ghz, all I had to do was go into the bios, set the multiplier to 42, and leave everything else on auto. I don't THINK I had to disable turbo boost, either (you can if you want, it doesn't really do anything if you set your multiplier manually). It was that easy. It is when I wanted to get to 4.4 that I really had to put some effort into getting it stable at a reasonably low voltage and temperature. I had to adjust voltages, tweak RAM settings, disable C states, and a few other things to get it to work with offset voltage.

Basically, I got 4.2 without having to do anything, but past that I had to work for it, though there's probably plenty of headroom left. So, in your case, I would try simply setting the multiplier to 42, rebooting, and checking voltage/temp/stability. It'll probably be just fine, but don't take my word for it - monitor your system closely for a few days, but i was running the 4.2 as a 24/7 OC for a while with no issues, and my much more complicated 4.4 OC has been a 24/7 overlock for months now without problem.

cheers!
post #4 of 10
Tha
Quote:
Originally Posted by hags2k View Post

I have a very similar system to you - i even have the same graphics card and cpu cooler.

So, in my case to get 4.2 Ghz, all I had to do was go into the bios, set the multiplier to 42, and leave everything else on auto. I don't THINK I had to disable turbo boost, either (you can if you want, it doesn't really do anything if you set your multiplier manually). It was that easy. It is when I wanted to get to 4.4 that I really had to put some effort into getting it stable at a reasonably low voltage and temperature. I had to adjust voltages, tweak RAM settings, disable C states, and a few other things to get it to work with offset voltage.

Basically, I got 4.2 without having to do anything, but past that I had to work for it, though there's probably plenty of headroom left. So, in your case, I would try simply setting the multiplier to 42, rebooting, and checking voltage/temp/stability. It'll probably be just fine, but don't take my word for it - monitor your system closely for a few days, but i was running the 4.2 as a 24/7 OC for a while with no issues, and my much more complicated 4.4 OC has been a 24/7 overlock for months now without problem.

cheers!

Thank you hags. I am going to try it tomorrow! Is there a downloadable program to monitor cpu temps and stuff for on screen or what is the best way to watch those things, I know heat is bad but how much heat? Volts etc. thank you
post #5 of 10
I am getting the same CPU and Mobo so thanks for the input about the voltages, will have to test it out myself, when I get my new PC.
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post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrighteousPony View Post

You will like it, I love my pc!
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BENSON519 View Post

Tha
Thank you hags. I am going to try it tomorrow! Is there a downloadable program to monitor cpu temps and stuff for on screen or what is the best way to watch those things, I know heat is bad but how much heat? Volts etc. thank you

I use Core Temp to monitor my temps and CPU-Z and HWMonitor to monitor voltages. CPU-Z seems to give an accurate reading on this board. Core Temp doesn't show voltages, only Vid, which is not nearly as helpful, but its temp readings are good and it allows logging of min and max temps, monitoring all four cores, etc, and you can have it put the highest temp (or all temps) in your status bar for quick reference. Very nice piece of software.

Between the two of them, though, you can get a pretty good idea of whats going on. I then use LinX and Prime95 to stability test the thing. When using LinX, you may need to manually set Core Temp to a higher priority in order for it to accurately poll temperature data. Otherwise LinxX takes over so much of your system resources that you really don't know how hot your cpu is when its being stressed the hardest.
Edited by hags2k - 2/11/13 at 10:13am
post #8 of 10
hey hags2k smile.gif
if you want to run offset, your VID is very important to know,
with offset you first first find your stable vcore for any oc you like,
if you found it, you then run ibt or prime, any program that loads your chip 100%,
you then look at your VID, vcore and calculate youtr offset,
Vcore - VID = offset

a negative offset doesnt mean it takes -0.030 from your vcore,
it does take off voltage from the idle vcore, if it gets to low,
you will crash also, you need a amount of idle vcore to get going when needed,
so theres a limit to negative offset that way, if you oc a bit higher, if temps permit,
you might need a positive offset, that works better then negative i think smile.gif
i like offset, always use it for my oc's, takes a bit more effort meybe, but still..

made this post about offset, and how to set up, maybe helpful smile.gif
http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/90#post_19071662
Edited by VonDutch - 2/11/13 at 10:30am
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post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

hey hags2k smile.gif
if you want to run offset, your VID is very important to know,
with offset you first first find your stable vcore for any oc you like,
if you found it, you then run ibt or prime, any program that loads your chip 100%,
you then look at your VID, vcore and calculate youtr offset,
Vcore - VID = offset

a negative offset doesnt mean it takes -0.030 from your vcore,
it does take off voltage from the idle vcore, if it gets to low,
you will crash also, you need a amount of idle vcore to get going when needed,
so theres a limit to negative offset that way, if you oc a bit higher, if temps permit,
you might need a positive offset, that works better then negative i think smile.gif
i like offset, always use it for my oc's, takes a bit more effort meybe, but still..

made this post about offset, and how to set up, maybe helpful smile.gif
http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread/90#post_19071662

Thanks for the info. In this particular case, I actually was aware of that. However, this particular motherboard behaves a tad unpredictably there. It seems to use a sizable negative offset under default settings, and the offset varies depending on the multiplier. Not only that, but setting your own offset seems to affect the voltage differently depending on the multiplier. It took a lot of trial and error to get it stable at a low voltage in offset mode at 4.4 Ghz. As I said above, though, I was able to leave everything on auto for a stable 4.2 Ghz OC.

Figuring out your offset is important, I agree. Tt doesn't seem to correlate to the voltage settings in this particular bios, though, which I want to make clear. In fact, I really had to monitor a large variety of voltage settings before I was finally able to get my 4.4 Ghz OC stable at a non-fixed voltage. Fixed was easy, but I didn't like the idea of wasting energy and generating excess heat with the CPU was idle biggrin.gif
post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hags2k View Post

Thanks for the info. In this particular case, I actually was aware of that. However, this particular motherboard behaves a tad unpredictably there. It seems to use a sizable negative offset under default settings, and the offset varies depending on the multiplier. Not only that, but setting your own offset seems to affect the voltage differently depending on the multiplier. It took a lot of trial and error to get it stable at a low voltage in offset mode at 4.4 Ghz. As I said above, though, I was able to leave everything on auto for a stable 4.2 Ghz OC.

Figuring out your offset is important, I agree. Tt doesn't seem to correlate to the voltage settings in this particular bios, though, which I want to make clear. In fact, I really had to monitor a large variety of voltage settings before I was finally able to get my 4.4 Ghz OC stable at a non-fixed voltage. Fixed was easy, but I didn't like the idea of wasting energy and generating excess heat with the CPU was idle biggrin.gif

what you set, is what you get, ..well, thats the way it supposed to be ..lol
if you set 0.0030V offset in the bios, it stays that way, if you set a fixed vcore in the bios, it stays that way,
what changes when you check with programs, is VID, when vid changes the vcore changes with it,
i sometimes had 3 different vid's for a oc, what i do is make a note of the one i see most of the time while stresstesting,
and go from there with my offset needed..
another thing that you must think about is vdroop, or you LLC setting, that can make your vcore look different also,
a little vdroop works best most of the time, its "Turbo" on your mobo..
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