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Choosing a UPS

post #1 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:02am
Thread Starter 
So I've read a couple of guides about choosing one and it's a bit complicated to me tbh.

What I know is that I multiply the wattage by 1.6 and I have the VA.

I have a 1000watt PSU what will be connected to the battery (not even half of it is used but I'm going to calculate all of it for future upgrades to my pc) my monitor is said to consume 46 watt which I want to be connected to the battery as well as my rooter which I have no idea how much watt it needs.

Let's say all in all I have 1100 watt so in theory I need a ups greater than 1760VA so I thought a 2000VA would be perfect.

What I want to know is firstly if I can also connect my speakers to the battery (logitech 5.1) or it will drain the battery very quickly.

Secondly I definitely need to connect my keyboard to the brown-out protection (I believed that's what it's called, protection without battery) because I've heard many g19 keyboards dying from thunderstorms.

Thirdly I wanted you to give me your opinions on what UPS I should buy and which technologies I should look for in a UPS (got absolutely no idea about that) also if I'll need more VA or less.
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post #2 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheByt3 View Post

So I've read a couple of guides about choosing one and it's a bit complicated to me tbh.
What I know is that I multiply the wattage by 1.6 and I have the VA.
I have a 1000watt PSU what will be connected to the battery (not even half of it is used but I'm going to calculate all of it for future upgrades to my pc) my monitor is said to consume 46 watt which I want to be connected to the battery as well as my rooter which I have no idea how much watt it needs.
Let's say all in all I have 1100 watt so in theory I need a ups greater than 1760VA so I thought a 2000VA would be perfect.
What I want to know is firstly if I can also connect my speakers to the battery (logitech 5.1) or it will drain the battery very quickly.
Secondly I definitely need to connect my keyboard to the brown-out protection (I believed that's what it's called, protection without battery) because I've heard many g19 keyboards dying from thunderstorms.
Thirdly I wanted you to give me your opinions on what UPS I should buy and which technologies I should look for in a UPS (got absolutely no idea about that) also if I'll need more VA or less.

Holy hell! It is UPS night tonight.
First we need to know how much load you will be pulling from the wall. That is correct, wattage is 60% of the VA rating.

2000VA would be a good oversight if you are pulling 1100W, although in practice you won't run that much load whilst on the UPS. Although in saying that, if you have a 1000W power supply, this doesn't mean you will be pulling 1000W. Around 800VA should be sufficient for your system, UNLESS you know you WILL pull that much wattage constantly.

I'd recommend against connecting speakers to a UPS. It won't run for long and it not designed for that equipment.

Technology you should be looking for in a UPS is line-interactive/automatic voltage regulation. You will get brownout and voltage spike protection with this without draining the battery (within a range of about 90-140V. Anything lower and the battery will kick in, anything higher and the UPS will direct current to the ground).

You may also want a true sine wave UPS, if your power supply has active power factor correction (active PFC). Simulated sine wave UPSes can cause active PFC power supplies to drop the load when switching to DC mode.
Edited by tompsonn - 9/12/12 at 7:17am
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post #3 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:19am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tompsonn View Post

Holy hell! It is UPS night tonight.
First we need to know how much load you will be pulling from the wall. That is correct, wattage is 60% of the VA rating.
2000VA would be a good oversight if you are pulling 1100W, although in practice you won't run that much load whilst on the UPS. Although in saying that, if you have a 1000W power supply, this doesn't mean you will be pulling 1000W. Around 800VA should be sufficient for your system, UNLESS you know you WILL pull that much wattage constantly.
I'd recommend against connecting speakers to a UPS. It won't run for long and it not designed for that equipment.
Technology you should be looking for in a UPS is line-interactive/automatic voltage regulation. You may also want a true sine wave UPS, if your power supply has active power factor correction (active PFC). You will get brownout and voltage spike protection with this without draining the battery (within a range of about 90-140V. Anything lower and the battery will kick in, anything higher and the UPS will direct current to the ground).

Well tbh I don't know how much my system draws, but it's definitely around 300 watts, the thing is I bought that power supply because I intend to do future upgrades to my PC that's why I'm aiming for a ups that will accommodate those upgrades. I don't want to get in the hassle of needing to buy a UPS again just because my current one won't do the job once I upgrade my PC. Also as far as I know having more VA will prolong how long the battery will hold out so it's not such a bad thing I guess? But my main concern is to never have to upgrade my UPS again.

Also according to here my PSU has active PFC.

I won't connect my speakers to the battery based on your advice but can I connect them to the brown-out function?

EDIT: I'm pretty sure it draws 300 watt or less on load because my PSU has a functionality in which the fan won't start working unless there is more than 30% load or 30 degrees Celsius of heat and that fan has never even started on complete stress tests I've done tongue.gif
Edited by TheByt3 - 9/12/12 at 7:22am
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post #4 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheByt3 View Post

Well tbh I don't know how much my system draws, but it's definitely around 300 watts, the thing is I bought that power supply because I intend to do future upgrades to my PC that's why I'm aiming for a ups that will accommodate those upgrades. I don't want to get in the hassle of needing to buy a UPS again just because my current one won't do the job once I upgrade my PC. Also as far as I know having more VA will prolong how long the battery will hold out so it's not such a bad thing I guess? But my main concern is to never have to upgrade my UPS again.
Also according to here my PSU has active PFC.
I won't connect my speakers to the battery based on your advice but can I connect them to the brown-out function?

Picking up 2000VA certainly won't hurt smile.gif
What do you mean brown-out function? As far as I know, no UPS offers just brown-out functionality.
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post #5 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:24am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tompsonn View Post

Picking up 2000VA certainly won't hurt smile.gif
What do you mean brown-out function? As far as I know, no UPS offers just brown-out functionality.

What I mean is to protect my staff without giving them battery power
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post #6 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:25am
Thread Starter 
Like having special plugs that do not offer battery power, but they offer protection
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post #7 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheByt3 View Post

What I mean is to protect my staff without giving them battery power

I haven't seen any UPS that can do this. You probably want just a standalone line conditioner for this task!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842111276
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post #8 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tompsonn View Post

I haven't seen any UPS that can do this. You probably want just a standalone line conditioner for this task!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842111276

So what I could do is buy a UPS for PC + monitor + rooter + keyboard

and buy the voltage regulation thingy just for my speakers to protect them. My speakers output 155 watt total so I guess a 200watt voltage regulation would do it.

Just for paying less and not buying the voltage regulation at all could I even put the speakers on the UPS and when the power goes off just turn the speakers off so that they won't drain the battery? Or is it plainly wrong to put speakers on a UPS at all?
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post #9 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheByt3 View Post

So what I could do is buy a UPS for PC + monitor + rooter + keyboard
and buy the voltage regulation thingy just for my speakers to protect them. My speakers output 155 watt total so I guess a 200watt voltage regulation would do it.
Just for paying less and not buying the voltage regulation at all could I even put the speakers on the UPS and when the power goes off just turn the speakers off so that they won't drain the battery? Or is it plainly wrong to put speakers on a UPS at all?

Nope that will be fine smile.gif
I just recommend against running them off battery from the UPS because its kind of pointless, especially consumer grade UPSes where they cannot support a load for much time.
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Dell U2412M Dell U2212HM Dell U2212HM Ducky DK9087 G2 Pro 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX-750 Corsair Obsidian 650D Microsoft IntelliMouse Optical  XTRAC Ripper XXL 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Westone W3 IEMs RE-272 IEMs Shure SE-215 IEMs Schiit Bifrost DAC 
AudioAudio
Schiit Asgard 2 amp HiVi Swan M50W 2.1 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 950 GA-X58-UD3R Radeon HD 5450  24GB Corsair @ 1333mhz 
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4x WD Cavair Red 1TB in RAID 0 Windows Server 2008 R2 x64 Corsair HX-520 LianLi LanCool 
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My System
(30 items)
 
"Zeus"
(13 items)
  		 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 2500K (4.5ghz @ 1.320v) Gigabyte Z68X-UD3R-B3 MSI R7970 Lightning Corsair 16GB (4x4GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Plextor PX-256M5S 256GB Crucial M4 128GB Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 Hitachi HDS723020BLA642 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Hitachi HDS723020BLA642 Hitachi HUA722010CLA330 WDC WD10EARS-00Z5B1 TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S223B 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Phanteks PH-TC14PE with TY-140's Lamptron FCv5 (x2) Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit Dell U2412M 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Dell U2412M Dell U2212HM Dell U2212HM Ducky DK9087 G2 Pro 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX-750 Corsair Obsidian 650D Microsoft IntelliMouse Optical  XTRAC Ripper XXL 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Westone W3 IEMs RE-272 IEMs Shure SE-215 IEMs Schiit Bifrost DAC 
AudioAudio
Schiit Asgard 2 amp HiVi Swan M50W 2.1 
View all
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 950 GA-X58-UD3R Radeon HD 5450  24GB Corsair @ 1333mhz 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
4x WD Cavair Red 1TB in RAID 0 Windows Server 2008 R2 x64 Corsair HX-520 LianLi LanCool 
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post #10 of 21
9/12/12 at 7:36am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tompsonn View Post

Nope that will be fine smile.gif

Oh cool thank you very much for your help.

Rep+ thumb.gif
My Beauty
(19 items)
  		  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500K Asus P8P67 Evo Asus GTX 460 DirectCU II Corsair Vengeance™ — 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memo... 
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Samsung 830 SSD Samsung 830 SSD Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB SATA 6.0Gb/s Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB SATA 6.0Gb/s 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
LG Super Multi Arctic Freezer 7 PRO Rev. 2 Windows 8 Professional x64 LG W2753VC-PF 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Keyboard for Gaming XFX ProSeries 1000W Platinum Coolermaster Haf 932 Cyborg R.A.T. 7 
Mouse PadAudioOther
Razer Goliathus Control Edition Alpha (Large) Logitech G51 Speakers CyberPower CP1500PFC UPS 
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My Beauty
(19 items)
  		  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500K Asus P8P67 Evo Asus GTX 460 DirectCU II Corsair Vengeance™ — 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memo... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 830 SSD Samsung 830 SSD Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB SATA 6.0Gb/s Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB SATA 6.0Gb/s 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
LG Super Multi Arctic Freezer 7 PRO Rev. 2 Windows 8 Professional x64 LG W2753VC-PF 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G19 Keyboard for Gaming XFX ProSeries 1000W Platinum Coolermaster Haf 932 Cyborg R.A.T. 7 
Mouse PadAudioOther
Razer Goliathus Control Edition Alpha (Large) Logitech G51 Speakers CyberPower CP1500PFC UPS 
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