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Swiftech MCP-35X and Reservoir Combo Rev2, trouble with PWM and air.

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Just installed this setup so I'm new to water cooling.

PWM
When I attach the PWM cable from the pump to the CPU fan header the pump doesn't start at boot. When I go into BIOS it shows the CPU fan speed as N/A. That takes less than 30 seconds so it should be safe. With the PWM cable disconnected the pump runs at 100%. Could the cable be faulty, is there a BIOS setting I'm missing or is there something else I should look for?

Air
As I was filling the loop and intermittently running the pump with a jump started PSU there was always air at the top of the reservoir. I ran the pump for 4 seconds and the air pocket got bigger, I filled it up leaving about 1,5 cm of air at the top and repeat. When the air pocket at the top of the reservoir stopped changing size, it was getting refilled from the loop, I did a leak test for 16 hours. When I stopped it the reservoir was completely filled. I can hear that there is air in the loop and I can also see bubbles going through the reservoir but it remains completely filled when I turn of the system. The pump is running at 100%, could it be sucking the air from the top of the reservoir and this would all be fixed when I get it to run at a lower speed or is there something else going on.


Edited by MADworld - 9/12/12 at 8:57am
post #2 of 10
There still air bubbles in your loop, You need to bleed it out completely first. Just run the pump @ 100% for now. ~ 1 week or so. then you can decrease the pump speed, and you should good to go with no problems.
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post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawjai526 View Post

There still air bubbles in your loop, You need to bleed it out completely first. Just run the pump @ 100% for now. ~ 1 week or so. then you can decrease the pump speed, and you should good to go with no problems.
So in time I should see a air pocket form at the top of the reservoir? I'm using the system right now with the pump at 100% (PWM disconnected) and the temps look good, a lot of noise from the air bubbles though.
post #4 of 10
Inlet should be on the bottom of the two ports.

Make sure the green wire is on the end of the pwm plug as that is the pwm signal. It goes blk, red, blue, green but in the case of the 35x, it's just blue, green.
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post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Inlet should be on the bottom of the two ports.
Make sure the green wire is on the end of the pwm plug as that is the pwm signal. It goes blk, red, blue, green but in the case of the 35x, it's just blue, green.

I have it in the upper one of the two ports. Will it still clear out giving enough time or do I have to empty the loop and reconnect?

The connector is none, none, blue, green with the "feet" pointing down and the connector facing away from you.

post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MADworld View Post

I have it in the upper one of the two ports. Will it still clear out giving enough time or do I have to empty the loop and reconnect?
The connector is none, none, blue, green with the "feet" pointing down and the connector facing away from you.


Wires look good then. You should check your bios to make sure PWM is enabled, but if I remember correctly even with it off the pump should spin up?


The lower port will give the bubbles a chance to rise making it easier to bleed. I've always found it a lot harder to bleed in that res with the top port.
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post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Wires look good then. You should check your bios to make sure PWM is enabled, but if I remember correctly even with it off the pump should spin up?
The lower port will give the bubbles a chance to rise making it easier to bleed. I've always found it a lot harder to bleed in that res with the top port.
I had a small leak (5-10 drops) between the res and the big lid. The leak happened after I turned the pump off after the 16 hour leak test, there was absolutely no leaking during the 16 hours it was on. When I opened the fill port I heard a change in pressure. I'm not sure if it expelled or took in air but after I closed it again there were no more leaking.

I decided to empty the loop and attaching the tube to the lower port and it seems to be bleeding a lot better now, thanks for the tip smile.gif. I ran an other 16 hour leak test after the refill and the same thing happened again.

1. Filling empty loop until the res gets refilled from the loop.
2. I leave about 1cm of air at the top of the res.
3. Start 16 hour leak test.
4. After sleeping and getting home from work (~16 hrs) there is no air at the top of the res. It's completely filled with water.
5. I turn off the pump and a few drops come out between the big lid and the res.
6. I open the fill port on the lid and hear a change in pressure.
7. I close the port and run the pump for a few minutes and a air pocket forms at the top of the res again.

Should I be worried? Is this normal while bleeding a system or is something going on that I'm missing?
post #8 of 10
That's normal to have a pressure change, on vs off. Just wipe the water away and leave. Your loop is under pressure. Some water will always squeeze thru the threads, it's unavoidable most of the time.
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post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

That's normal to have a pressure change, on vs off. Just wipe the water away and leave. Your loop is under pressure. Some water will always squeeze thru the threads, it's unavoidable most of the time.
Ok, thanks I'll keep my eye on it and see if it happens again.

About the PWM, it seems Asus has BIOS settings that are not all that intuitive. I've now set the bios CPU fan profile setting to manual and I can use their software to control how the speed should change in regard to CPU temp.

From a degradation standpoint is it better to have a sliding scale so that the pump constantly changes speed (30C = 35%, 32C=38% etc.)
Or would it be better to have a scale with big jumps (30C = 35 %, 35C = 35%.....40C= 50%)

Does anybody even know if it makes a difference?
post #10 of 10
What's your max cpu temp?

I assume it's around mid 70s? If so set:

upper temp to 55

upper duty cycle 50

lower temp to about whatever you idle at +5

lower duty cycle 15 or 20


35x can achieve about 90% power at 50% duty cycle so for 99% of ppl there's no need to ever go higher.


*One word of advice. Since your gpu is in the loop, your cpu temp will by nature control the flow for the gpu. Thus you have to balance those times when the cpu is idle and the gpu is rocking. You might have to lower the upper temp so your gpu gets more flow when it needs it, like in a game where the cpu isn't doing so much work.
Edited by tsm106 - 9/13/12 at 2:36pm
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