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post #81 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by tompsonn View Post

Potentially. And if it did, their first action is usually to just shut off right away. Better ones beep at you first though...

then that means, even I stressed my pc or in heavy load, it didn't go beyond 300w, because, there's no beeping sound of overload, and the fact that it was still on in just mere 2-5 seconds before it fail this means my load is below 300w? because beyond 300w or exactly 300w it should automatically be shut off after I unplug the ups in the main power line am I right?
post #82 of 204
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcski07 View Post

then that means, even I stressed my pc or in heavy load, it didn't go beyond 300w, because, there's no beeping sound of overload, and the fact that it was still on in just mere 2-5 seconds before it fail this means my load is below 300w? because beyond 300w or exactly 300w it should automatically be shut off after I unplug the ups in the main power line am I right?

Its too hard to guess and confirm that without really knowing the model of UPS, or what the software reported (if any...), so I can't really answer that redface.gif
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post #83 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by tompsonn View Post

Its too hard to guess and confirm that without really knowing the model of UPS, or what the software reported (if any...), so I can't really answer that redface.gif

hehe, sorry for too many questions I've asked... thank you. those info are good enough for me. thumb.gif
post #84 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcski07 View Post

lol, i found out it was only 800va/300w... so that explains why my back up battery fails... i checked my receipt and it was indicated 300w only... -_-

then i realized, 300w? that's too small and could probably overload the ups right? am i right?
Yeah 300watts is way to small for a high spec gaming pc. I would say you want a UPS no smaller then 600watts, cos then it will give you stacks of time, no matter what your doing on your pc.thumb.gif
post #85 of 204
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by phil2014 View Post

Yeah 300watts is way to small for a high spec gaming pc. I would say you want a UPS no smaller then 600watts, cos then it will give you stacks of time, no matter what your doing on your pc.thumb.gif


I wouldn't stay "stacks", but certainly enough to shutdown smile.gif
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post #86 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by phil2014 View Post

The model is F6C120xxUNV and heres a review of a 800va belkin ups, the same as mine but the batt backup isn't as good, but it lets you have a good look inside. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1062977

Its a good UPS as its never failed to not keep my PC running during power cut and storms, so I would like to keep it if possible, plus I cant really afford another UPS really, but if the surge protection works using MOV, can I just buy a surge protector?

I am sorry I did not see this request for information until now.

If the only thing you want is surge protection, there are two aspects on this topic.

Whole house... I put a whole house surge protector inside the 'main box'. It reacts within pico-seconds and routes the excess power to ground. This works well for lightning related or if you live far enough to the north, the aurora borealis effects.

Localized.. In this case putting a voltage regulator (aka surge protector) between the wall socket and your UPS. I honestly can't see the harm in this one but it might seem odd to have one more device in the room.

Another choice is to have the UPS 'maintained' by the manufacturer. I live in the Philippines, so that would have to be done by sending my UPS to APC in Manila. e.g. I would have NO UPS, etc protection while they are working on my UPS. Not my idea of 'good sense'.

Last choice is to buy another UPS.

Best regards, AraiBob
post #87 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcski07 View Post

lol, i found out it was only 800va/300w... so that explains why my back up battery fails... i checked my receipt and it was indicated 300w only... -_-

then i realized, 300w? that's too small and could probably overload the ups right? am i right?

When calculating, start with what you know...

What is the power rating for your power supply? If you are using a 1000 Watt PSU then having a 300 watt UPS does not make sense...

In my case, I have a 1200 Watt Power supply. At 'normal' usage I think (no proof) I am using about 400 watts. I know I am less than 600 watts as that is when the fan on the PSU will turn on, and that has happened only a few times. E.g. even at the maximum usage I actually do, I seldom go over 600 watts.

So, if I get a UPS about double my PSU's rating, I can be certain of having enough power to shut down, safely.

No need for all the minute calculation crap. Just double your PSU and that will be close enough...

AraiBob
post #88 of 204
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AraiBob View Post

When calculating, start with what you know...

What is the power rating for your power supply? If you are using a 1000 Watt PSU then having a 300 watt UPS does not make sense...

In my case, I have a 1200 Watt Power supply. At 'normal' usage I think (no proof) I am using about 400 watts. I know I am less than 600 watts as that is when the fan on the PSU will turn on, and that has happened only a few times. E.g. even at the maximum usage I actually do, I seldom go over 600 watts.

So, if I get a UPS about double my PSU's rating, I can be certain of having enough power to shut down, safely.

No need for all the minute calculation crap. Just double your PSU and that will be close enough...

AraiBob

So not only have you wasted money on an overkill PSU (you need maybe 650W at most and that's probably still overkill as a quality 550W power supply will put out 600W if you need it only seldom no problem), you've also wasted money on a 2400W UPS that you don't need. So actually, the minute calculation "crap" is necessary when you don't want to burn a hole in your wallet and you're on a tight budget.

It's not difficult to calculate how much power draw you have and purchase a correctly sized UPS accordingly. In fact, this guide outlines a couple of methods that you can achieve this and its not difficult at all.
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post #89 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by tompsonn View Post

So not only have you wasted money on an overkill PSU, you've also wasted money on a 2400W UPS that you don't need. So actually, the minute calculation "crap" is necessary when you don't want to burn a hole in your wallet and you're on a tight budget.

So now we are going to argue / debate the merits of PSU sizing?

Perhaps you are a 'single use' PSU user? e,g, fir each build you purchase a case, psu etc. When you are 'tired' of that build, you give it away.

I buy 'overkill PSU's because I use the PSU (and other components) for at least 3 builds. Each build lasts 2 to 3 years. My PSU has a 7 year warrantee, which I value. I first bought this brand of PSU in 2000, and none of them have ever failed me.

Right now, the 'debate' in the home pc world is whether future cpu's will use less power, or more power than today's. The PC may be having a reduced future as so many people are NOT buying a 'standard' PC for their home. Instead, they are buying 'tablets'. These people are NOT programmers, but 'users'. So by buying an 'overkill PSU' I am preparing for a time when PSUs might be difficult to find. I buy the top of the line of the PSU company each time I buy. I currently have 4 of those PSU's in my home. 3 are being used, and one is a spare. the oldest PSU is 9 years old and it is working just fine.

So, 'overkill' it might be, but when I am using it 7 years from now, even you can see I saved money. My cases are multi-use (At least 3 builds before I give up the case). I pay top dollar for great quality, as I expect to use each case at least 7 years before giving it away.

Best regards, AraiBob
post #90 of 204
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AraiBob View Post

So now we are going to argue / debate the merits of PSU sizing?

Perhaps you are a 'single use' PSU user? e,g, fir each build you purchase a case, psu etc. When you are 'tired' of that build, you give it away.

I buy 'overkill PSU's because I use the PSU (and other components) for at least 3 builds. Each build lasts 2 to 3 years. My PSU has a 7 year warrantee, which I value. I first bought this brand of PSU in 2000, and none of them have ever failed me.

Right now, the 'debate' in the home pc world is whether future cpu's will use less power, or more power than today's. The PC may be having a reduced future as so many people are NOT buying a 'standard' PC for their home. Instead, they are buying 'tablets'. These people are NOT programmers, but 'users'. So by buying an 'overkill PSU' I am preparing for a time when PSUs might be difficult to find. I buy the top of the line of the PSU company each time I buy. I currently have 4 of those PSU's in my home. 3 are being used, and one is a spare. the oldest PSU is 9 years old and it is working just fine.

So, 'overkill' it might be, but when I am using it 7 years from now, even you can see I saved money. My cases are multi-use (At least 3 builds before I give up the case). I pay top dollar for great quality, as I expect to use each case at least 7 years before giving it away.

Best regards, AraiBob

No we're going to debate your stupid logic to double the size of your power supply to arrive at a UPS size. If you want to waste money doing this then that's fine but DO NOT advocate that rubbish advice in my thread. smile.gif
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