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Bad temps with 3rd/4th core running hot w/ Hyper 212+, considering lapping - Page 2

post #11 of 26
Thread Starter 
Oh trust me it's quite tight, I've made sure of that. Thanks for that info regarding overclocking anyways, very useful biggrin.gif

EDIT: Also how's your Frio working out for you? I was thinking about returning my 212+ and getting one of those.
Edited by Pyroh - 9/21/12 at 7:16am
    
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post #12 of 26
Have you thought about replacing the TIM underneath the CPU's IHS ?

I know it is a very slow process and you could damage your CPU if you are overly aggressive,

But it might be worth considering but then that is up to you,,

http://www.overclock.net/t/1307826/i7-3770k-ihs-removed
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post #13 of 26
Thread Starter 
Thank you for the idea but I'm a college student on a college level income, so I can't afford breaking it tongue.gif
    
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post #14 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyroh View Post

Oh trust me it's quite tight, I've made sure of that. Thanks for that info regarding overclocking anyways, very useful biggrin.gif
EDIT: Also how's your Frio working out for you? I was thinking about returning my 212+ and getting one of those.

 

You're welcome!  Although, I recommend disabling CPU Spread Spectrum because otherwise the actual BCLK can end up being 99 MHz.

 

Oh, also be sure to leave CPU C1E enabled for the same reason:  only disable it if you decide to adjust the BCLK to something other than 100.0 MHz.

 

I don't know what my stock temps are, but my full-load temps for Prime95's Blend test using 1.408V for 4.8 GHz topped out at about 73°C using two of these fans linked below in push/pull turned all the way up to 100% during the test:

 

http://www.svc.com/y720dcd-25t1-gp.html

 

My room temperature at that time was almost 24°C (or almost 75°F).

 

I'm using the Frio's stock paste.  I tried to use some of my brand new Tuniq TX-4 paste, but it was all dried up and rubbery for some reason (it was fresh from Newegg too).  lol  :)

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post #15 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

You're welcome!  Although, I recommend disabling CPU Spread Spectrum because otherwise the actual BCLK can end up being 99 MHz.

Oh, also be sure to leave CPU C1E enabled for the same reason:  only disable it if you decide to adjust the BCLK to something other than 100.0 MHz.

I don't know what my stock temps are, but my full-load temps for Prime95's Blend test using 1.408V for 4.8 GHz topped out at about 73°C using two of these fans linked below in push/pull turned all the way up to 100% during the test:

http://www.svc.com/y720dcd-25t1-gp.html

My room temperature at that time was almost 24°C (or almost 75°F).

I'm using the Frio's stock paste.  I tried to use some of my brand new Tuniq TX-4 paste, but it was all dried up and rubbery for some reason (it was fresh from Newegg too).  lol  smile.gif

I always disable spread spectrum anyways, but do you know why I should enable C1E? I've been under the impression all C states should be disabled.
    
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post #16 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyroh View Post


I always disable spread spectrum anyways, but do you know why I should enable C1E? I've been under the impression all C states should be disabled.

 

I don't remember the best way to explain why, but I know that the only reason to disable it is the same reason as it was in the old days:  when changing the FSB (now the BCLK).  Since we no longer do that - or need to, it's best to leave it enabled since having it disabled doesn't provide any benefit when overclocking.  So, having it enabled does not result in stability problems unless the BCLK is adjusted - then it could possibly become a problem at such a time.

 

Also, the only time it is recommended to disable C3 and C6 is when using an Offset voltage for overclocking.

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post #17 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

I don't remember the best way to explain why, but I know that the only reason to disable it is the same reason as it was in the old days:  when changing the FSB (now the BCLK).  Since we no longer do that - or need to, it's best to leave it enabled since having it disabled doesn't provide any benefit when overclocking.  So, having it enabled does not result in stability problems unless the BCLK is adjusted - then it could possibly become a problem at such a time.

Also, the only time it is recommended to disable C3 and C6 is when using an Offset voltage for overclocking.

Thanks for the explanation, I'm still a little vague so googling time biggrin.gif
    
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post #18 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyroh View Post


Thanks for the explanation, I'm still a little vague so googling time biggrin.gif

 

What are you vague on?

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post #19 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

What are you vague on?

The specific reason as to why to leave C1E enabled. I believe you I'm just curious tongue.gif
    
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post #20 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyroh View Post


The specific reason as to why to leave C1E enabled. I believe you I'm just curious tongue.gif

 

Well, why disable it?  :)

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It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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