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Need help with making custom copper semi-fullcover waterblocks "HD6970 GPU + Motherbord" with CNC Milling Machine

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hi. Everyone. I've got task, to make project at school, I decided to make high tech water blocks. I have two AMD HD 6950 cards, non-reference. I'm wounder what is the best design for internal heatsinks, height, width and length of heatsink over GPU, also what about the pool depth?

I have looked at top design of top blocks for GTX 580, review and detailed pictures here: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=228267
But I cant find height, width and lenght of heatsinks over the GPU, interested in design from EK and Heatkiller GPU-X 3, as they are easiest to make with CNC.
I'm going to cut out cooling of PWM transisstors(wrong?) as they placed long away from the GPU, and I dont wat to waste expensive copper on that, do you think to make 2inch high copper air-heatsink is bad idea?

If someone got any Solid Works/Other CNC GPU blocks design files, I will appreciate.

(Please don't say, you will never make it, everything is possible with a milling machine and bunch of tools ;D)

What do you folks think???
post #2 of 13
Sounds like a great idea and a really fun project. I would make the first one out of aluminum to save money and just expect it not to be perfect. Also, see if you can buy a dead card of the same, or similar model in order to keep yours pristine when checking the fit.

Very jealous, sure wish I had access to a mill!!
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post #3 of 13
That is a excellent project ! good for you for trying something like this thumb.gifthumb.gif

I made my first CPU water block years ago rather primitive but did the job ..

some of the manufactures have data for their water blocks listed and swiftech has pictures also ..

**Edit just double check your dimensions seems most are Ref blocks that I can find .

Dimensions: (L) 9.7" - 246mm x (W) 4.9" - 126mm x (H) 0.75" - 19mm

Weight 36 oz - 1020 g
Good luck and have fun wink.gif

http://www.swiftech.com/komodo-hd6900.aspx#tab3
Edited by Bloodystumps - 9/27/12 at 2:35pm
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post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hello again fellas overclockers! In chase for more action, I think I broke 1(2) of my non-reference XFX HD6950 CDFC 2GB.
It is a transistor(??) nearest to the mount hole has fallen off with my help. Now I wounder if I can solder it back with a needle+soldering iron(I am not on crack xD)
Also first, I will remove chrome layer from a house-needle, than clean soldering iron with a gas-flame, than use MIG to weld the needle to the soldering iron.
The question is:
1. What the heck am I going to solder? Capacitor or transistor?
2. Does it have to be "+ to +" and "- to -"?
3. How much heat can "it" take?
4. Does it melt or blend? Does it already broken by static electricity from my fingers?








NOTHiNG GONNA STOP ME, even possibly broken video card, forcing mind to go further:









...and volia



Taking design from the best "Koolance GTX 580" smaller block, but with more internal surface and at least as deep ribs and plate:



Do I need to open new thread? Coz starting to mill on Monday.
post #5 of 13
Its a capacitor ,I am not sure what the value is . you should be able to pick one up at Radio shack and while you are there pick up a fine tip for the iron.

I wouldn't exceed 15 watts while soldering a PCB just make sure the tip is clean and tinned well and you don't have the shakes and you should be good , if you have never soldered before I would read up a bit on it .

Good luck
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post #6 of 13
remember the longer the "fin pool" the more restrictive the flow. CPU/GPU blocks
are the most restricive items in the loop. from the micro channel compartments.
some have gone as far as a progressive approach fine then to course fin array.
from the ol fatty 460 wavey channels to the micro fin...

noticed the hunk of copper.. too bad.. a .250" and wider to collect the memory
cooling feature.. noted it was a mid cover.. but no love for the memory?
all processor cover and slapping fin stickers on the memory is counter-productive.
but its for school and fun.. right..

airdeano
post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodystumps View Post

Its a capacitor ,I am not sure what the value is . you should be able to pick one up at Radio shack and while you are there pick up a fine tip for the iron.
I wouldn't exceed 15 watts while soldering a PCB just make sure the tip is clean and tinned well and you don't have the shakes and you should be good , if you have never soldered before I would read up a bit on it .
Good luck

Thanks! Unfortunately I don't have a store that sell so low powered soldering irons. I'm living at very small town with 20k population. But we have at school 20W soldering iron, that I got permission to modify since cheapest soldering iron costs 27usd where I live. And we don't even have this small type of capacitor(2.16mm length) Do you think I need to order it on ebay/internet or just try to solder the old one?
I have a total zer0 knowledge about electronic components like that(I'm going mechanics) but last year I got top grade in soldering micro components(the only one in my class tongue.gif )
NOW the question: does it matter which way is solder this micro capacitor? Is there + or -? I looked through the magnifying glass(You see pictures above and belove) I can't find which way is plus and which way is minus poles(God damn, I wish I could understand basics of electronic components)

Here is some measurings:



Same caps inside my Icy Box front-panel usb3.

Quote:
Originally Posted by airdeano View Post

remember the longer the "fin pool" the more restrictive the flow. CPU/GPU blocks
are the most restricive items in the loop. from the micro channel compartments.
some have gone as far as a progressive approach fine then to course fin array.
from the ol fatty 460 wavey channels to the micro fin...
noticed the hunk of copper.. too bad.. a .250" and wider to collect the memory
cooling feature.. noted it was a mid cover.. but no love for the memory?
all processor cover and slapping fin stickers on the memory is counter-productive.
but its for school and fun.. right..
airdeano

Hi pal! I barely understand everything after "460 wavey design fins" Actually I don't understand, but I REALLY wounder what was you meaning? smile.gif Coz I AM SURE that you got something there that is informative.

BTW, All this fins is for GPU even if they laying over the RAM, RAM is covered by the fins, it is the PWM that are not covered that you do see on LEFT side. The ram is barely covered by the block, I've D5 Strong pump.

Waiting for replies!!
post #8 of 13
That's a cap, will probably run without it jut as well. If it artefacts, solder it back, orientation doesnt matter with these ones.
    
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post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Euforic Elexir View Post

Hi pal! I barely understand everything after "460 wavey design fins" Actually I don't understand, but I REALLY wounder what was you meaning? Coz I AM SURE that you got something there that is informative.
BTW, All this fins is for GPU even if they laying over the RAM, RAM is covered by the fins, it is the PWM that are not covered that you do see on LEFT side.

back in 2010 on the GTX 460 card the fins used to cool the coolant were thick and in a wavey pattern..





airdeano
post #10 of 13
If you don't have a store near by I would try and solder it back on ,but I would do some research on those types of caps .

also the 20 watt soldering iron should be ok just be careful and try not to apply to much heat .

You don't need to read it all but it will help with the understanding of what you are working with , Capacitors

Basic soldering tips

I am not a electronic guru but I do mess around from time to time and like you my field is mechanical (auto tech by trade) but its good to learn new things and even better to be able to repair one of your own boo boo's thumb.gif
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