Hi I've been having horrible Temps with my GTX 560 ti Twin Frozr II OC 2GB edition (90+ degrees under stress). So I took it apart and replaced the TIM on the card with my own (Arctic Cooling MX4) and when I was scrubbing the old paste off of the heatsink I found it to have ridges on it. So when i scrubbed the heatsink one way it was smooth (like it should be) but the other way it tore the paper towel it was so rough. Do you think there is a way to fix this without RMAing it, and could I even RMA after I took the stock heatsink off?
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MSI Twin Frozr bad heatsink
post #2 of 7
9/28/12 at 2:02pm
- aroc91
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Aftermarket TIM should be enough. If you look at how they mount, there's no way to lap them, because you'd just make a bigger gap since the parts where the screws go into are flush up against the mounting holes. You don't have the ability to tighten it down further like a bolt-on CPU heatsink. Mine also has machining marks like that, but they're not a problem.
I don't know of any manufacturer that doesn't allow you to remove your heatsink under warranty these days, so don't worry about that.
I don't know of any manufacturer that doesn't allow you to remove your heatsink under warranty these days, so don't worry about that.
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- RetroSpiderman
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post #4 of 7
9/28/12 at 7:08pm
- Cakewalk_S
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Do you know how to Lapp a surface? I would highly recommend if u can get a flat surface and some nice high grit sand paper, higher than 1000grit sandpaper then I should try to sand it down to a nice flat surface! That should eliminate all ridges and make a perfectly flat surface if u know how to do it right. That would be your best bet.
Bummer bout the cooler man. Never heard an issue like this with an MSI GPU.
Bummer bout the cooler man. Never heard an issue like this with an MSI GPU.
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post #5 of 7
9/28/12 at 8:39pm
- aroc91
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Quote:
Fan speed? Ambient temps? Voltage? Overclocked?
What does your TIM application look like?
I would STRONGLY advise against lapping due to what I said before. The contact points between the heatsink and the PCB are fixed. There's no way to tighten it down further, so if you take off any material, it will just make the contact worse.
My System
(14 items) |
| CPU | Motherboard | Graphics | RAM |
|---|---|---|---|
| Q9300 @ 3.1 | GIGABYTE GA-EP43-DS3LR | MSI GTX 560 Ti | 2x2GB OCZ + 2x1GB Corsair XMS2 |
| Hard Drive | Cooling | OS | Monitor |
| 300GB WD + 1TB WD | AC Freezer 7 | Windows 7 Pro 64-bit | Sceptre 24" + ASUS 20" |
| Power | Case | ||
| BFG 650W | Apevia X-Navigator | ||
| View all | |||
My System
(14 items) |
| CPU | Motherboard | Graphics | RAM |
|---|---|---|---|
| Q9300 @ 3.1 | GIGABYTE GA-EP43-DS3LR | MSI GTX 560 Ti | 2x2GB OCZ + 2x1GB Corsair XMS2 |
| Hard Drive | Cooling | OS | Monitor |
| 300GB WD + 1TB WD | AC Freezer 7 | Windows 7 Pro 64-bit | Sceptre 24" + ASUS 20" |
| Power | Case | ||
| BFG 650W | Apevia X-Navigator | ||
| View all | |||
- RetroSpiderman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aroc91 
Fan speed? Ambient temps? Voltage? Overclocked?
What does your TIM application look like?
I would STRONGLY advise against lapping due to what I said before. The contact points between the heatsink and the PCB are fixed. There's no way to tighten it down further, so if you take off any material, it will just make the contact worse.

Fan speed? Ambient temps? Voltage? Overclocked?
What does your TIM application look like?
I would STRONGLY advise against lapping due to what I said before. The contact points between the heatsink and the PCB are fixed. There's no way to tighten it down further, so if you take off any material, it will just make the contact worse.
I actually lowered the voltage (1025 millivolts to 1000) and didn't touch the frequency. I tried many different ways to apply the TIM, but the one I stuck with was a simple pea size dot in the middle. And my ambient temps aren't the problem, I tried FurMark with the case open and got very similar temps.
post #7 of 7
10/29/12 at 5:56pm
- Hukkie
- nVidia Enthusiast
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Id highly recommend getting an aftermarket cooler for your card.
The temps on those cards can get quite high with stock cooling, although yours sounds like its going a bit higher then whats normal :<<br />
My EVGA GTX680 FTW 4GB was running to high for my taste (Despite having a very good chassi and quite a few aftermarket fans) and rounding out at 83C in games like BF3 and during Furmarks Burn-In test it blew past 90C every time (Never crashed though, I love EVGA, quality products!).
Got myself an Arctic Accelero Hybrid that I installed today and dropped my temperatures by 40C average (42C after 45-60 minutes of BF3 and 56C on the 15minute Burn-In with Furmark).
Stock cooling just doesnt cut it these days it seems, wich is a bit sad since gamingcards should come with adequate cooling since they WILL be pushed to the limits.
The temps on those cards can get quite high with stock cooling, although yours sounds like its going a bit higher then whats normal :<<br />
My EVGA GTX680 FTW 4GB was running to high for my taste (Despite having a very good chassi and quite a few aftermarket fans) and rounding out at 83C in games like BF3 and during Furmarks Burn-In test it blew past 90C every time (Never crashed though, I love EVGA, quality products!).
Got myself an Arctic Accelero Hybrid that I installed today and dropped my temperatures by 40C average (42C after 45-60 minutes of BF3 and 56C on the 15minute Burn-In with Furmark).
Stock cooling just doesnt cut it these days it seems, wich is a bit sad since gamingcards should come with adequate cooling since they WILL be pushed to the limits.
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