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Ideas wanted: reducing my OC temps, 955BE - Page 4

post #31 of 39
10/4/12 at 11:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezmenir View Post

From personal experience, I had an H80 with the stock fans plugged into the pump header, and it was pretty damn loud. (And the TC14PE outperforms it by quite a large margin).
Thing is, yeah, -MY- H80 outperformed the TC14PE slightly, and probably was matched with the H100. The H80 and H100 both use the same pumps, but I did end up replacing the fans with Nidec AP30 (4250 RPM version), and they turned the pump into a bottleneck. It couldn't deliver heat fast enough, and it was fine and all- but just retardedly loud at peak load, but that's a given with Nidec fans.
Personally, I like my new TC14PE (D14 knockoff in red). OP would do better just to buy better fans for his existing D14 as that would increase it's cooling power to be fairly close to the H100. As it is, stock for stock, the H100 is only slightly better, and for the price of an H100 and good fans for it, you'd be best off to buy a Rasa kit. My suggestion just stands because OP already has the D14. (So I'm not going to say go replace your heatsink for a couple of degrees- the only LARGE gain here would be the Rasa kit).

H100 is a different animal, mainly due to the 240mm RAD. Less fan speed needed. Besides that, fans are fans: If your H8O made too much noise, use quieter fans, same as with air coolers.
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post #32 of 39
10/4/12 at 2:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2thAche View Post

H100 is a different animal, mainly due to the 240mm RAD. Less fan speed needed. Besides that, fans are fans: If your H8O made too much noise, use quieter fans, same as with air coolers.

They are the same monster as they use the exact same pump. When the pump is the bottleneck, the radiator doesn't matter anymore. Lol
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post #33 of 39
10/4/12 at 7:42pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by truckerguy View Post

The 1 thing most over looked is the case. The air flow and direction and amount of air move is one of the most over looked

Case airflow should be pretty good.


Lian Li PC-P50R

Intake:
120mm, bottom of front panel

Exhaust:
120mm, upper rear panel
2x140mm, ceiling

PSU is bottom mounted, that does its own thing isolated from the rest of the case.



Thinking I may upgrade the fans to Spectre Pros, and add a second intake fan at the top of the front panel (aiming straight into the D14).

Fans all plugged into a Zalman ZM-MFC1 controller, all set to max for Prime work.





I've decided I'm going to keep shooting for a 4.2 24/7 overclock on the current setup. Adding a front fan if necessary. Not looking to water cool at the moment until I do a full custom setup including GPU(s), once I have decided on another processor further on down the track.


H100 and similar are out of the question on this build. Custom water or nothing.
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post #34 of 39
10/4/12 at 11:05pm
Then the next thing to look at is case fans how much cfm do they move,, and all fans sould be pull air into the case with the top fans pulling air out.
All intake fans need to be be higher cfm's with exshast fans being lower cfm's. This is a positive air presure case with very efective cooling.

I perfer a case that has a spot to mount a fan behind the mobo
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post #35 of 39
10/4/12 at 11:06pm
Quote:
I perfer a case that has a spot to mount a fan behind the mobo

So much this. It actually can make a decent difference.
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post #36 of 39
10/5/12 at 2:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by truckerguy View Post

Then the next thing to look at is case fans how much cfm do they move,, and all fans sould be pull air into the case with the top fans pulling air out.
All intake fans need to be be higher cfm's with exshast fans being lower cfm's. This is a positive air presure case with very efective cooling.

I perfer a case that has a spot to mount a fan behind the mobo
Re: fan direction, if I switch the back fan to intake, I'd have to realign the D14 to blow south->north otherwise it'd be fighting the rear fan. I'm not sure I'd like the look of it either, at all frown.gif

I am familiar with the positive/negative pressure deal. At the moment unfortunately mine is (slightly) negative, so dust goes in everywhere tongue.gif

The CFM of the Lian Li fans is something I'm not sure of, however I think it's a fairly safe bet the 140s at least are similarly spec'd to these. That's 72.88CFM @ 27.6dBA, compared to the 140mm Spectre Pro's 86.73CFM @ 22.8dBA. That, to me, is a fairly big difference.

I'm working on a couple of ideas at the moment that I'll post up here for scrutiny later on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezmenir View Post

So much this. It actually can make a decent difference.
Really? Clearing out that hot air pocket has that much impact? On overall case temps or mostly just MB temps?
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post #37 of 39
10/5/12 at 4:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezmenir View Post

They are the same monster as they use the exact same pump. When the pump is the bottleneck, the radiator doesn't matter anymore. Lol

I don't think that's true. Would depend on resistance and cooling efficiency. 240 is certainly more efficient due to surface area.
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post #38 of 39
10/5/12 at 8:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezmenir View Post

They are the same monster as they use the exact same pump. When the pump is the bottleneck, the radiator doesn't matter anymore. Lol

I have no experience with water cooling, but common sense tells me that the pump moving too slow would allow more time for the radiator to cool the liquid. However it would also allow more time for the CPU to heat it up. I would think (and again I have no experience) that an ideal setup would run the pump just fast enough to let the water cool to a set temperature without letting the CPU get over a set temperature. If those temps were adjustable it would be awesome.
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post #39 of 39
10/5/12 at 5:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by schmotty View Post

I have no experience with water cooling, but common sense tells me that the pump moving too slow would allow more time for the radiator to cool the liquid. However it would also allow more time for the CPU to heat it up. I would think (and again I have no experience) that an ideal setup would run the pump just fast enough to let the water cool to a set temperature without letting the CPU get over a set temperature. If those temps were adjustable it would be awesome.

Your common sense makes decent sense yeah.
Quote:
240 is certainly more efficient due to surface area.

I wasn't arguing it's efficiency, the 240 is obviously a better rad or the H80 would actually be in the top of the heatsink lists too. Which it isnt. Lol. My point was that after you put enough air through the rad, the H80 and the H100 become almost a match in performance. The difference is, the H80 is louder (and I do mean LOUD) when you do it.
Quote:
Really? Clearing out that hot air pocket has that much impact? On overall case temps or mostly just MB temps?

Depends on your case, if the backplate and some of the boards surface is exposed (along with the space beneath the board), it actually can knock a couple of degrees off. I really wanted to get a case with a fan in the rear side for this reason, but I couldn't find one that I liked frown.gif
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