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[Build Log] Project "Overkill" - Quad GeForce Titan's - Page 20

post #191 of 782
Thread Starter 
Information on the gap etc

The red circles are the washers provided by MIPS to prevent the backplate from touching the motherboard



These pictures show where the screws stick out once the back plate has been added to the rear of board




This picture shows the screw that is ready to be screwed into the mosfet block



Once the screws are screwed in, you can see here that there is a large amount of screw thread exposed. If I tighten the screws any further the back plate starts to bow.the motherboard, and the block itself contacts with the board.

I've checked with Michael and this is the correct way to install the mosfet block......






Although the block is secured and cannot move very much, Personally I don't like the fact there is so much screw exposed on each side that could potentially short the motherboard.

Most other block's from other manufacturers are flush or have a plastic /metal spacer to allow a flush mount.

Shortly I'm going to test using some plastic standoffs I have left over from some old EK blocks to see if i can get a better result.
Edited by soth - 11/19/12 at 5:19pm
post #192 of 782
Hope that works out ok. Even if you would have secured the block different than Mips has...you have to appreciate and respect how quickly Michael gets back in touch if you ask a question. He has always been extremely responsive with any questions I've had.
post #193 of 782
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpachris View Post

Hope that works out ok. Even if you would have secured the block different than Mips has...you have to appreciate and respect how quickly Michael gets back in touch if you ask a question. He has always been extremely responsive with any questions I've had.

Yeah Michael is great, he is always very helpful,

I think these plastic washers will do the trick well.

I'm sure even with the mounting method I've show above the block would still function correctly.

The next question is how to do the bottom block,

I've only got enough plastic washers for the bottom of the motherboard , surely it will need some for the top of the board to prevent shorting out?

guess i'll have to add those in myself as well.... what a headache.

edit, Ddding the plastic washers made it uneven and put much more strain on the board, so I've put it back to the MIPS way of doing it,

I figured out that the area around the screw holes on the backplate can bend slightly and keeps the mosfet area straighter.

At the end of the day, worst case scenario the board shorts and I'll have to warranty it (unlikely).

I did a test fit of the other block and it fits perfectly, I'll do the thermal paste and take pictures of the completed board shortly.
Edited by soth - 11/19/12 at 9:01pm
post #194 of 782
Thread Starter 
Due to work emergency last night I haven't finished the motherboard block mounting,

2 x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 360mm arrived about 10 minutes ago.

These are the pics from their website.




I've made sure I finish work at 3pm today (5hrs from now) due to time in lieu,

I'll finish the motherboard and post lots of pics of the rads then.

also, turning the PCI-express extention cable into a rounded sleeved cable is proving to be quite difficult,

I might have to remove the solder from the SMD joints, sleeve groups of wires, then re solder them. back on,

I bought 3 of the riser cables so if i mess one or two up it wont matter.
post #195 of 782
Thread Starter 
So I finally finished off the water blocks for the motherboard tonight,

It was very frustrating getting the back plate to line up without bowing of the board.

I also added lots of plastic washers to various places where mip's didn't include them,

The blocks would have worked perfectly well without the plastic washers between the board and the blocks, but I am just overly cautious.

One thing I can't stress enough with this block is do not tighten the screws, at all.

Leave them about one rotation from tight, and don't use a drill or similar. Without the plastic spacers if you continue to screw you will bend your motherboard and/or make contact with the board from the block.

This is the best I could get the back plate and mosfet block, very little bowing in the board with good contact.

You can also see i've added a plastic spacer where one is not required, just to be safe.






I've also added this plastic washer to the larger block, again this washer is loose and is not required, the block would not make contact with the board unless you really overtightened or placed a large amount of pressure on it.



And more pics, including final assembled.






Will be putting this in the motherboard tray tomorrow, more pics then smile.gif

I'll also be setting up a flush loop for the new rads tomorrow + pictures of the new rads.
Edited by soth - 11/21/12 at 6:34am
post #196 of 782
that looks freakin' awesome, gonna look so good when it's finished!
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STORMTIDE
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post #197 of 782
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magical Eskimo View Post

that looks freakin' awesome, gonna look so good when it's finished!

Thanks Mate, Glad you like it,

Pic's of the new rads for the front to replace the aqua computer ones that were too big.

These rad's are pure copper and are highly recommended in reviews,










They also include a heap of copper coated screws and stop fittings, If i was doing a copper block build I'd use these, but since I've gone for the silver/nickel look I wont be.




I'll be setting up a flush for these at some point today, then they will be put in their new home at the front of the case.
post #198 of 782
Curious how your look is going to play. Looks like the chipset blocks opening are right where the 680 power would be.
 
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post #199 of 782
Subbed! looking really good! smile.gif
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i7 3770k @4.8ghz , 1.344v Asus Maximus V Formula Asus GTX 670 DC2T-2GD5 Asus GTX 670 DC2T-2GD5 
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G.Skill Ripzjaw (4x4GB) OCZ Vertex 4 (256GB) WD Caviar Black (1TB) Custom Water Loop 
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Windows 8 QNIX QX2710 Too many... Seasonic Platinum 860w 
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post #200 of 782
Thread Starter 
using these:






I may have to remove a back plate from the second card but I've measured it all up and it will work smile.gif
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