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Information as to why NOT to open a hard drive to repair it. - Page 3

post #21 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post

On the subject of PCB swaps. You have to make sure you have 2 of the EXACT same drive models. Then from there you need to get 2 drives from roughly around the same manufacturing time. If they are more than 2 weeks apart, it will not work. Plus you have to find a drive that was made in the same plant. You have 2 drives, one from china and the other from taiwan, both are the same drive, but the PCB layout is different. Won't work. 

Same model
Same manufacturing date
Same point of origin. 

I guess I have to find a drive on eBay then that is the same date and whatever, then. I hope it's just a fuse so I could bypass/replace it. If I do, then I'll backup as fast as I can!
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post #22 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by racecar56 View Post


I guess I have to find a drive on eBay then that is the same date and whatever, then. I hope it's just a fuse so I could bypass/replace it. If I do, then I'll backup as fast as I can!

Good luck with that. It is most likely not  a fuse on the drive. Any time you have a logic board failure, usually it is some other component (maybe a processor, resister, RAM, etc etc etc). You might as well buy 30 exact drives as yours and cross your figures.  If there is a fuse on the logic board, finding it is another issue. There are no schematics of the logic board out there as the drive manufactures keep those under close watch. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zonet View Post

I've had a few hard drives that have been in storage for a few years now (old ide/sata ones) that failed to spin up completely.
Years ago I read somewhere that dropping the drives onto the floor helps (if you just want to recover some data) but I thought that was a bit extreme so from a considerable distance I dropped the drives flat onto my hand, then gave them a good tap on the sides and what do you know? You hear the discs spin inside.
Plugged them back up and viola! Still working till this day. Although I'm currently looking to replace them with a single drive for the convenience.

You NEVER drop a drive. The reason why it had stopped spinning was likely because of a siezed spindle bearing. Tapping may have jiggled it free a bit, allow the platters to spin freely again, BUT that is one of the worst things you can do to a drive. Just by dropping it, you could have misalligned the platters by bending the spindle, bent heads (or if the heads are not parked offf the disk, caused head slap, damaging the media and the heads). Or if the platters were made of glass, you could have shattered them. YOU got REALLY lucky. 

 
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post #23 of 65
PCB swaps are way easier and much more likely to be successful than anything involving cracking the drive open.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post

On the subject of PCB swaps. You have to make sure you have 2 of the EXACT same drive models. Then from there you need to get 2 drives from roughly around the same manufacturing time. If they are more than 2 weeks apart, it will not work. Plus you have to find a drive that was made in the same plant. You have 2 drives, one from china and the other from taiwan, both are the same drive, but the PCB layout is different. Won't work. 

Same model
Same manufacturing date
Same point of origin. 

These requirements aren't often strictly necessary.

As long as they are the same PCB from the same model/part number and drive revision, chances of it working are pretty good. They don't always need to be made together, or even have the same firmware.
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post #24 of 65
lol some people really thought you could just swap platters? lachen.gif

sorry but I thought the fact you couldn't just go handy man on a 7200rpm disk aligned to the nanometer was common sense
post #25 of 65
Newegg warehouse employees need to have this printed out and stapled to their foreheads, and maybe then they will learn how to properly shipa hard ddrive.
   
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post #26 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post

Good luck with that. It is most likely not a fuse on the drive. Any time you have a logic board failure, usually it is some other component (maybe a processor, resister, RAM, etc etc etc). You might as well buy 30 exact drives as yours and cross your figures. If there is a fuse on the logic board, finding it is another issue. There are no schematics of the logic board out there as the drive manufactures keep those under close watch.
You NEVER drop a drive. The reason why it had stopped spinning was likely because of a siezed spindle bearing. Tapping may have jiggled it free a bit, allow the platters to spin freely again, BUT that is one of the worst things you can do to a drive. Just by dropping it, you could have misalligned the platters by bending the spindle, bent heads (or if the heads are not parked offf the disk, caused head slap, damaging the media and the heads). Or if the platters were made of glass, you could have shattered them. YOU got REALLY lucky.

Aww well. I hope I can get the data back one day!
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Newegg warehouse employees need to have this printed out and stapled to their foreheads, and maybe then they will learn how to properly shipa hard ddrive.

Strange, I've never had any problems with them...*crosses fingers...I've got a server with drives from there, I even ordered a netbook once*, but I've heard about it.

EDIT: The drive is a Hitachi Deskstar HDT725050VLA360.
EDIT 2: Oh my, I found a similar drive on eBay! All is the same, except the "A743121", "CT" and serial number...and those numbers on that HP tag. Do any of you think this is a good bet? Same date! "drive may very stightly" I guess I'd better ask the seller about it first. Yes, it's cheap, but...it'd be great if it worked!
Edited by racecar56 - 10/4/12 at 8:56pm
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post #27 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Newegg warehouse employees need to have this printed out and stapled to their foreheads, and maybe then they will learn how to properly shipa hard ddrive.

I've yet to recieve a DoA drive from Newegg. Amazon however, oh lord. Three of them, IIRC. One recently. mad.gif2cents.gif
    
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post #28 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by racecar56 View Post


Aww well. I hope I can get the data back one day!
Strange, I've never had any problems with them...*crosses fingers...I've got a server with drives from there, I even ordered a netbook once*, but I've heard about it.
EDIT: The drive is a Hitachi Deskstar HDT725050VLA360.
EDIT 2: Oh my, I found a similar drive on eBay! All is the same, except the "A743121", "CT" and serial number...and those numbers on that HP tag. Do any of you think this is a good bet? Same date! "drive may very stightly" I guess I'd better ask the seller about it first. Yes, it's cheap, but...it'd be great if it worked!

If the logic board looks the same, go for it. Cross your figures and hope it is from the same manufacture date as well.

 
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post #29 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Xeb View Post

If the logic board looks the same, go for it. Cross your figures and hope it is from the same manufacture date as well.
I'm going to specifically ask them for a drive like the one pictured, so it ought to be the same manufacturing date. I will also ask them for a PCB picture. I don't know if I will buy it, but if I do, wish me luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezmenir View Post

I've yet to recieve a DoA drive from Newegg. Amazon however, oh lord. Three of them, IIRC. One recently. mad.gif2cents.gif
I actually purchased a 1TB WD10EARS drive a while back (probably around 2010-2011) there and it has been fine. o.O I sure hope my luck doesn't change...I only got it there because of the good price, if I remember correctly, it was around $53!
Edited by racecar56 - 10/5/12 at 12:00am
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HP 90W Adapter Conexant HD Audio 
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Turion 64 MT-32 Quanta 3091 Radeon Xpress 200M 2x512MB DDR SODIMM 
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The Bedroom PC
(13 items)
 
   
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Core 2 Duo T7200 (undervolted) Quanta 30BD GeForce Go 7600 @ 560/400 Avant Technology  
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Western Digital WD1600BEVS Something that annoys me. Original fan and heatsinks, even after all thes... Windows 8.1 32-bit 
PowerAudio
HP 90W Adapter Conexant HD Audio 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Turion 64 MT-32 Quanta 3091 Radeon Xpress 200M 2x512MB DDR SODIMM 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung HM160HC Some DVD drive A fan Windows XP 
MonitorPower
1280x768 14.1" LCD HP DC359A power brick 
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post #30 of 65
Thread Starter 

The EARS drives have had a lot issues. 

 
Gsvlip Dudyrm
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Oda'maksv
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3770k @ 4.5 1.312 load Zotac Z77 ITX Wifi GTX 1070 Gaming 2126/2249 w/ Hybrid cooler TridentX 16GB 2400MHz 
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Samsung 850 Pro 1TB Seagate 2TB H105 EVGA Hybrid GPU cooler 
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Windows 10 Asus MG279Q - 24" 144Hz 1080p Filco Majestic II w/ Cherry Reds Seasonic X 760W 
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Bitfelix Prodigy Logitech G400 Razer Goliath AKG A701 
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JDS Labs Objective 2 JDS Labs ODAC 
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Samsung 830 Evo 128GB 2x 2TB  Some DVD drive OSX 10.10.4 
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Asus 1080P Crap TX 750 HAF 922 G400s 
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C2D 2,26GHz under volted @ .978v 8GB  Crucial M4 64GB SSD 500GB Scorpio Black 
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Built-in 
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Gsvlip Dudyrm
(15 items)
 
Oda'maksv
(9 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3770k @ 4.5 1.312 load Zotac Z77 ITX Wifi GTX 1070 Gaming 2126/2249 w/ Hybrid cooler TridentX 16GB 2400MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 Pro 1TB Seagate 2TB H105 EVGA Hybrid GPU cooler 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Asus MG279Q - 24" 144Hz 1080p Filco Majestic II w/ Cherry Reds Seasonic X 760W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Bitfelix Prodigy Logitech G400 Razer Goliath AKG A701 
AudioAudio
JDS Labs Objective 2 JDS Labs ODAC 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 750 3.99 (190x21) 1.376v Load ASUS P7P55d-E Pro GTX 670 FTW <- Poor overclocker :( 8GB (4x2GB) G.Skill DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
Samsung 830 Evo 128GB 2x 2TB  Some DVD drive OSX 10.10.4 
MonitorPowerCaseMouse
Asus 1080P Crap TX 750 HAF 922 G400s 
Mouse PadOther
Apple Keyboard Xbox One controler 
CPURAMHard DriveHard Drive
C2D 2,26GHz under volted @ .978v 8GB  Crucial M4 64GB SSD 500GB Scorpio Black 
OSMonitorKeyboardMouse
OS X 10.0 1280x800 Built-in Trackpad 
Audio
Built-in 
  hide details  
Reply
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Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Hard Drives & Storage › Information as to why NOT to open a hard drive to repair it.