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Computer boots for 3 seconds only to shut down

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Hello. Having a problem with my PC. I have an Intel processor Core i7 950 OC'ed to 4.0Ghz, Corsair H-80 cooler, NVIDIA GTX680 and Corsair TX-650 PSU.

When I boot my PC the mobo leds light up and the fans spin only for about 3 seconds then the machine shuts down. Doesn't even get to the beep. The night before, I had no problems. The Corsair H-80 keeps temps on this Core i7 CPU always fairly cool at around 50C and around 60-70C under heavy load.

Is this most likely a power supply problem? Someone elsewhere suggested removing the internal battery and resetting my CMOS, *before* buying a new PSU. Do you recommend this? Or is the PSU most likely the culprit of the problem?

Now for a disclaimer....

In the past, the PC HAS shut down after a couple seconds a few times before, but then it simply rebooted itself a second or two later, and when it did it back it would just boot Windows normally but revert back to its stock CPU clock speed. I would go into the bios and change it so that it goes back up to 4.0Ghz again and all was good. Are those previous incidents something that could have possibly led to this current malfunction?


Thinking of buying an Antec EarthWatts EA750 750W PSU at Frys tomorrow. Suggestions?
post #2 of 11
What Power supply are you using now? It does sound like a power supply problem to me.

But resetting the CMOS (taking out that little battery for 10 minutes, and unplugging the power at the same time) could work?
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post #3 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by isamu View Post

Hello. Having a problem with my PC. I have an Intel processor Core i7 950 OC'ed to 4.0Ghz, Corsair H-80 cooler, NVIDIA GTX680 and Corsair TX-650 PSU.
When I boot my PC the mobo leds light up and the fans spin only for about 3 seconds then the machine shuts down. Doesn't even get to the beep. The night before, I had no problems. The Corsair H-80 keeps temps on this Core i7 CPU always fairly cool at around 50C and around 60-70C under heavy load.
Is this most likely a power supply problem? Someone elsewhere suggested removing the internal battery and resetting my CMOS, *before* buying a new PSU. Do you recommend this? Or is the PSU most likely the culprit of the problem?
Now for a disclaimer....
In the past, the PC HAS shut down after a couple seconds a few times before, but then it simply rebooted itself a second or two later, and when it did it back it would just boot Windows normally but revert back to its stock CPU clock speed. I would go into the bios and change it so that it goes back up to 4.0Ghz again and all was good. Are those previous incidents something that could have possibly led to this current malfunction?
Thinking of buying an Antec EarthWatts EA750 750W PSU at Frys tomorrow. Suggestions?

 

It sounds to me like a very unstable overclock.  I'm not speaking from experience, but I'm considering the fact that it's only doing it when it's overclocked.

 

I recommend reverting back to stock, and then overclocking again - but this time do it bit by bit until you get to 4.0 GHz, but running good stability tests in between each step.  I mean, always tweak the overclock so that your system can run Prime95 for 12 hours or more.

    
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post #4 of 11
Maybe you have shorted your mobo.
post #5 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Empr1ze View Post

Maybe you have shorted your mobo.

 

If it were shorted, then wouldn't it only stay on for about a half a second as opposed to 3 whole seconds?

    
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Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Samsung 2253BW (1680 x 1050) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
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post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies guys. @ TwoCables...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post


I recommend reverting back to stock, and then overclocking again - but this time do it bit by bit until you get to 4.0 GHz, but running good stability tests in between each step.  I mean, always tweak the overclock so that your system can run Prime95 for 12 hours or more.

This machine has been stable for over a year at 4.0Ghz overclock. Only incidents have been the ones like I mentioned above, where I turned it on, then it shut down, then quickly re-booted again with no problems except reverting back to stock speed. This time however, it's not rebooting on its own and simply stays off.

I did not OC it, the company(AVA-Direct) did. I do not know how to overclock a CPU, but a friend of mine does. I guess resetting the CMOS is probably an idea, but I wouldn't know where to start when going about re-OC'ing this intel chip.

My current power supply is a Corsair TX650 650 watt. About a year old and the PC has never shut down while in use before.
post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by isamu View Post

Thanks for the replies guys. @ TwoCables...
This machine has been stable for over a year at 4.0Ghz overclock. Only incidents have been the ones like I mentioned above, where I turned it on, then it shut down, then quickly re-booted again with no problems except reverting back to stock speed. This time however, it's not rebooting on its own and simply stays off.
I did not OC it, the company(AVA-Direct) did. I do not know how to overclock a CPU, but a friend of mine does. I guess resetting the CMOS is probably an idea, but I wouldn't know where to start when going about re-OC'ing this intel chip.
My current power supply is a Corsair TX650 650 watt. About a year old and the PC has never shut down while in use before.

 

If someone else did the overclocking for you, then that, to me, is all the more reason to suspect that it wasn't done correctly.  When it comes to building a computer and overclocking it, I feel that the old saying always applies:  "If you want something done right, then you have to do it yourself".  To be honest with you, this stuff is actually pretty easy - otherwise I wouldn't have been able to do it (and I'm easily overwhelmed by even the simplest of tasks).

 

I'd say that the instability is now rearing its ugly head and now it's so unstable that it's not even functioning anymore.  If they had done a better job of making sure it was stable, then it would probably still be working right now, but this is the risk anyone takes when they have some outfit overclock their system for them.  After all, it's not their computer, so they don't truly care about it.  They just do it and say, "Here you go.  Enjoy".  Plus, 4.0 GHz is no small overclock for the i7-950, so it requires at least a few days of overclocking, testing, failing, tweaking, testing, failing, tweaking, testing, failing, etc. etc. etc.

 

So I say that you should revert the CPU back to stock and overclock it yourself.  Fortunately, you are on Overclock.net, so you are already an expert (because you have access to the combined knowledge of all of the experienced overclockers here).  I mean, sure you can have your friend help you, but Overclock.net is always a better place to go to seek help with this stuff.

 

I imagine one thing everyone will need to know is which motherboard you have, so do you know which one you have?  If not, there are ways to find out - some are easier than others, but some ways don't always work.


Edited by TwoCables - 10/4/12 at 1:33am
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
60 GB Callisto Deluxe (C:) 64 GB G.SKILL Falcon (D:) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
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Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Samsung 2253BW (1680 x 1050) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (the older, bronze-rated model) CM 690 Microsoft Intellimouse Optical Basic, but premium round 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.7GHz (1.368V using +0.005 offset) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 580 (ASUS DirectCU II) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
60 GB Callisto Deluxe (C:) 64 GB G.SKILL Falcon (D:) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Samsung 2253BW (1680 x 1050) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (the older, bronze-rated model) CM 690 Microsoft Intellimouse Optical Basic, but premium round 
AudioOther
XtremeGamer (low-profile PCB) Altec Lansing VS4121 (2.1 speaker system) 
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post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Something else I should mention.....like all PC's, there is a hard "rocker" switch in the back to manually shut the machine down. Since this problem started a few hours ago, upon flipping the switch to on, the PC will sometimes power on *without* having to push the power button in to turn it on like I normally do. Then when it quickly shuts down after 4 seconds or so, pressing the power switch on the front does nothing. Strange.

Oh and the small green led light still shines on the front of the case under the USB port, when PC switch is set to on(but not running).
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

If someone else did the overclocking for you, then that, to me, is all the more reason to suspect that it wasn't done correctly.  When it comes to building a computer and overclocking it, I feel that the old saying always applies:  "If you want something done right, then you have to do it yourself".  To be honest with you, this stuff is actually pretty easy - otherwise I wouldn't have been able to do it (and I'm easily overwhelmed by even the simplest of tasks).

I'd say that the instability is now rearing its ugly head and now it's so unstable that it's not even functioning anymore.  If they had done a better job of making sure it was stable, then it would probably still be working right now.

So I say that you should revert the CPU back to stock and overclock it yourself.  Fortunately, you are on Overclock.net, so you are already an expert (because you have access to the combined knowledge of all of the experienced overclockers here).  I mean, sure you can have your friend help you, but Overclock.net is always a better place to go to seek help with this stuff.

I imagine one thing everyone will need to know is which motherboard you have, so do you know which one you have?  If not, there are ways to find out - some are easier than others, but some ways don't always work.

Thanks. The mobo is a GIGABYTE GA-X58 USB3 LGA1366
post #10 of 11

I'm done editing my last reply above.  You can read it now, I think I'm done adding things.  :)

    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.7GHz (1.368V using +0.005 offset) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 580 (ASUS DirectCU II) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
60 GB Callisto Deluxe (C:) 64 GB G.SKILL Falcon (D:) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Samsung 2253BW (1680 x 1050) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (the older, bronze-rated model) CM 690 Microsoft Intellimouse Optical Basic, but premium round 
AudioOther
XtremeGamer (low-profile PCB) Altec Lansing VS4121 (2.1 speaker system) 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.7GHz (1.368V using +0.005 offset) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 580 (ASUS DirectCU II) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
60 GB Callisto Deluxe (C:) 64 GB G.SKILL Falcon (D:) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Samsung 2253BW (1680 x 1050) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (the older, bronze-rated model) CM 690 Microsoft Intellimouse Optical Basic, but premium round 
AudioOther
XtremeGamer (low-profile PCB) Altec Lansing VS4121 (2.1 speaker system) 
  hide details  
Reply
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