Closed Loop WC Mod thread, H50 pump and/or Thermaltake water 2.0 performer blocks - Page 3

You actually don't need a rez. I've been told introducing a rez into a closed loop system can open it up for air and bacteria and also corrosion. But thanks for the info on the H80/H100 pump. Where did you find that info? Ah, found it, but im seein like 0.52gpm..lol big difference actually...
And pics of the pump: way different:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?277795-CORSAIR-H100-Inside-The-Block-And-Pump-Preview

The pump does look impressive and I'm sure with double the flow rate of the Antec 620's pump, on a GFX card mod with a bigger rad, you could totally destroy any high temps. If the pump is strong enough, I'd imagine you could easily get a thick 240-360 maybe even a 480 rad in that thing. Pressure drop really isn't an issue with larger radiators due to already wider channels than the current Rads that Corsair uses. So I'd imagine the flow rates through the current H80/H100 rad will be the exact same through a big 240 or 360 rad.

It's unreal the amount of air in the loop. My Antec 620 has a bunch of air in the rad. I can shake the little rad and hear the water giggle in there. When I filled my 240 rad and pump with the distilled water I let the pump run the water through the loop, have the pump in the lowest spot, then shake the rad and turn it till there's no more air, then connect the hose to the pump under the distilled water so there's no air. It takes a little bit of time and you have to have the pump on when you're doing this, making sure its always sucking up distilled water to the pump, and it works flawless! Absolutely no air in the line whatsoever! I can shake the rad and there's nothing!

@ 1.050V 830MHz playing BF3...max temp = 39C...pretty darn good I must say.

Here's my current crap picture of my rig with the mod:

Awesome thanks bud! I was hoping this thread would get more traffic from the results but I guess it'll just take some time.

I used just distilled water in the loop so I'm hoping I won't get any corrosion. It's a copper block and copper/brass chamber rad so I don't think I'll have much of an issue.

I recently took out my GTX580 in prep for a new Asus GTX670. I relapped the cooler which I found out the contact between the cooler and die wasn't superb or as good as it could be, so I figured I could get alot better cooling performance once I get the cooler lapped correctly. I went head and lapped the cooler again and also used my lapping paste to get the cooler plate even smoother! The mirror finish is superb and perfectly flat! Just in time for the GTX670! The best part is I've got some MX2 now and the actual die of the 670 is about half the size of the GTX580, so the area that is in contact with the die should be absolutely perfectly flat and the thermal paste should do a better job than the ceramique crap I had on there before. I'm really hoping to have <40C temps on the GTX670! I'll definitely update this weekend on how it goes!

Gaming is awesome with the 240 rad and Corsair SP120's on fan controllers. I can turn down the fan speed to idle temp at 26C with gaming temps around 39-43C in BF3.

I would imagine if someone mod's a H80-H100 pump, which has about twice the flow rate of the thermaltake pump, your temps would be incredible! The closed loop low profile pump really has some potential in it and having the appropriate rad really proves this!

I would say this mod could give the Eisenburg from Coolermaster a run for its money!