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Closed Loop WC Mod thread, H50 pump and/or Thermaltake water 2.0 performer blocks - Page 4

post #31 of 38
10/26/12 at 4:20pm
I was able to use 1/4 barbs on my mod of the pro. However the 1/4 clamps provided were too small. I used zip ties.
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SunsetGrill
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post #32 of 38
10/28/12 at 2:04pm
Hey Cakewalk, I need to ask you for some direction due to your experience with antec and asatek pump blocks and custom loops: How much time should I spend trying to match up the diameters of the pump blocks and tubing/fittings in order to keep good, consistent flow rates? Does it have a large enough effect to matter that much? I was laying out all of my stuff and noticed the inside diameters of the asatek dual cpu/gpu unit versus my Antec kuhler 920 reguarding the in/out on the pumps and rad's. Should the barbs on my res exactly match them? And should the tubing be larger or the same size as the stock black tubing? Also, I have the option of using a dual dvd bay res or a swiftech micro res so which would you use and/or which is better? Thanks a million! Just want to make the best decisions fort the loop before putting her together. Heres the loop:

Crossfire 6850/5870 using the dual cpu/gpu asatek pump blocks for them-modifying the cpu one to fit 6870.
120 by 49 rad in dvd bay -- another 120 by 49 rad in hdd/dvd bay (its going in a Xigmatek Elisium case with both drawing in cool air from the front)
Either dual bay res or swiftech micro res
The pump block from my Antec 920 onb the cpu
Vrm block (cheapie from frozen cpu) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8211/ex-blc-542/Enzotech_Forged_Copper_MOSFET_Liquid_Cooling_Block_WMST-81NP.html?tl=g30c293s728#blank
I modified to work on my mobo because of the need for better cooling.(MSI 990fxa-gd80)
I am also going to put these on my gpu's to help with cooling the ram,etc... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009

Any advice is very much appreciated!!
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post #33 of 38
10/29/12 at 6:09am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

Hey Cakewalk, I need to ask you for some direction due to your experience with antec and asatek pump blocks and custom loops: How much time should I spend trying to match up the diameters of the pump blocks and tubing/fittings in order to keep good, consistent flow rates? Does it have a large enough effect to matter that much? I was laying out all of my stuff and noticed the inside diameters of the asatek dual cpu/gpu unit versus my Antec kuhler 920 reguarding the in/out on the pumps and rad's. Should the barbs on my res exactly match them? And should the tubing be larger or the same size as the stock black tubing? Also, I have the option of using a dual dvd bay res or a swiftech micro res so which would you use and/or which is better? Thanks a million! Just want to make the best decisions fort the loop before putting her together. Heres the loop:
Crossfire 6850/5870 using the dual cpu/gpu asatek pump blocks for them-modifying the cpu one to fit 6870.
120 by 49 rad in dvd bay -- another 120 by 49 rad in hdd/dvd bay (its going in a Xigmatek Elisium case with both drawing in cool air from the front)
Either dual bay res or swiftech micro res
The pump block from my Antec 920 onb the cpu
Vrm block (cheapie from frozen cpu) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8211/ex-blc-542/Enzotech_Forged_Copper_MOSFET_Liquid_Cooling_Block_WMST-81NP.html?tl=g30c293s728#blank
I modified to work on my mobo because of the need for better cooling.(MSI 990fxa-gd80)
I am also going to put these on my gpu's to help with cooling the ram,etc... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009
Any advice is very much appreciated!!


Well if the barbs don't match the tubing size then the tube won't fit and it'll leak all over the place. I heard the stock tubing is a tad smaller ID than 1/4", but I've found that 1/4" barbs work perfect! Tubing diameter is only important to match up to the barb size. Larger diameter tubing won't really grant you any better cooling because the pump flow rate is so low it won't really matter.

I didn't use a res, just ran the pump using a tub of the distilled water and had the radiator submerged in the water then just shook it till there was no air bubbles in the line then connected the barb to the hose under water, ziptied it, and walla, done. Fully sealed loop without a res, without any air bubbles. You do have to shake the rad quite a bit though to get the air bubbles out of the rad, but you definitely can shake the rad out of the water tank, just hold it up in the air, remember, air bubbles will want to travel up so I had the pump at a low point and the res above the pump and just shook it.

I think one of the biggest areas of improvement for these units is lapping the heatplate. The GTX670 that I put it on had insanely low temps. Actual ambient air temps were my idle temps and load temps didn't even hit 40C! I could game in BF3 between 30-34C...how nuts is that?
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post #34 of 38
10/29/12 at 11:25am
Do you think there being 3 blocks with pumps integrated will be enough to keep the flow rates up even though there will be 2 120 by 49 rad's and a ras in the loop? I will just order 1/4 inch clear tubing all around and the blue UV anti corrosive liquid to put in it. Also, if i go ahead and use the dual bay res, and put it in the dvd bay above the loop shouldn't any air left bleed itself out by itself?
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post #35 of 38
10/29/12 at 5:16pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

Do you think there being 3 blocks with pumps integrated will be enough to keep the flow rates up even though there will be 2 120 by 49 rad's and a ras in the loop? I will just order 1/4 inch clear tubing all around and the blue UV anti corrosive liquid to put in it. Also, if i go ahead and use the dual bay res, and put it in the dvd bay above the loop shouldn't any air left bleed itself out by itself?

I think you're really pushing the limits of the pump. I don't think the setup could handle much more than a 240 rad, afterall its only 0.25GPM...its not going to be some huge watercooling loop. I'd just stick to a sealed, no res, loop.
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post #36 of 38
10/29/12 at 7:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

I think you're really pushing the limits of the pump. I don't think the setup could handle much more than a 240 rad, afterall its only 0.25GPM...its not going to be some huge watercooling loop. I'd just stick to a sealed, no res, loop.

So, basically even though there is 3 pumps pushing the liquid, it will still have a hard time keeping up? I was hoping that If I staggered the pumps, that it would help keep up the flow rate without losing pressure. I am really glad to have learned this now as opposed to after burning up some cpu/gpu chips! I had it planned to go from the res to cpu/pump then 120 x 49rad, gpu/pump to 120 x 49rad, to 2nd gpu/pump through vrm block and back to res. It just proves that things that look good in theory or on paper don't always work out in the real world...lol right? Thanks for saving my stuff. I think I'll just leave the 920 as-is sealed and the gpu's on air until I can save up enough $$$ for a good swiftech pump and then go from there on the rest.
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post #37 of 38
1/13/13 at 8:31am
hello, I have a thermaltake water performer 2.0,
and I had the opportunity to trade for a h100.
worth the return?
the pump pressure is lower than h100?
I think in future change.
or would it be better to change the tt?
I will use on a gtx 670
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post #38 of 38
1/31/13 at 9:23pm
Awesome thread, too bad I caught it too late. I am going to try this with my 680 and 3820. If you see this, do you think this would work well enough to tie in 3 pumps onto 1 radiator? I am using a 680, a 560ti, and an i7 3820. It would be SO nice to be able to tie them all into one radiator loop and not have so much clutter. Also, is there any issue with hose length as I am using a HAF X case and want to pretty much go from the bottom to top with 3 stops on the way.. Would this be overly difficult for a novice water coooling modder? Also, as a final shot in the dark question (imay PM you if you don't mind) is which coolers do you recommend/? I have a h60, h80, and an arctiic hybrid vga cooler that I got because I cancelled the order and newegg sent it anyway. I have a 4gig 680 FTW+ and 2 560tis. I am going to try you remove the IHS on the 560s and then the water cooling mods mentioned in this thread. Heres to not destroying expensive electronics!!
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