can one "make" a custom closed loop? - Page 3

I guess you responded to my post, without reading it. I wasnt bashing anyone, just explaining to the OP that to use but correct your own words....

A "cheepo premade closed kit" does NOT last longer than a custom loop without any maintenance. It is a fallacy. Premade will accumulate air in loop and oxidize blocks at same rate as a custom loop, if as I clearly stated in my first post, similar norprene tubing is used with low water transmission rates.

If you want to argue the opposite, at least read my post first, and argue with a specific point.

So what specifically happens to a custom loop, that does not happen to a premade loop?

For someone accusing others of not reading, you sure don't like to read.

As for what specifically happens to a typical custom loop that does not happen to a premade, it's not about if, its about when. No one is arguing that a premade will never degrade but rather that it will degrade significantly slower. So much was already stated but I guess you responded before actually reading that - double standards are cool and all.

What specifically happens slower? A lot of things including but not limited to fluid levels dropping, loosening of fittings and clamps, degradation of orings, deformation of tubing, possible overheating and eventual death of pump, gunk buildup, possible galvanic corrosion.

Why do I say typical custom setup? Because by the time you address all these issues to bring it up to par with a premade kit, you already have half of what the OP has inquired about which is far from the typical setup.

Then there is the other half you are completely failing to address - the half that has absolutely nothing to do with longevity of an installed system but rather it's compactness, ruggedness, and ease of installation/removal.

Try again buddy.

Fluid levels wont drop slower if using same norprene tubing. Copper waterblocks are copper waterblocks. Radiators are radiators. Water +/- glycol is still water +/- glycol. O rings are made of same material. Galvanic corrosion wont be any different given same materials and fluid.

Been water cooling 10 years, never seen a fitting come loose on mine, but have seen them come loose in premades.

Again, anyone could easily make the same loop as a premade. Premade will have same issues, just more difficult to perform any maintenance.

I have run my loops over 2 years before without maintenance, posted pics, minimal block oxidation....and premade would have same block oxidation, just more difficult to clean it. Have seen pics on overclockers.com of people running custom over 4 years before cleaning.

Only difference between premade and custom with norprene tubing/similar fluid is one is easier to clean if you decide to do so.

And I am pretty sure I can make a compact rad/pump/block without having someone else put it together for me, and sure the OP can too.

I was simply pointing out to OP, that he can have similar to premade but the ability to clean if he decides to do so, or work as well if not.

Cant tell you how many people have seen buy premades, then want to work on them, then realize they should have just bought custom.
Edited by opt33 - 10/10/12 at 5:02pm

You never read the OP did you? I not even going to bother going further than that.

Actually I did. For 3rd time now.... I was pointing out to the OP that no reason to mimic a premade loop. Premade loops will degrade in performance just like custom loops. Only difference is premade loops are difficult to maintain so people dont clean them.

I understand buying a premade loop, as some dont wont to build loops. But if your building a loop yourself, there is no advantage in trying to omit a means to fill it. Just because you lack an easy way to maintain it, doesnt mean the components you use become more carefree.

This thread has long since de-railed from it's track, The OP originally asked if it was possible to create a custom closed loop and if so how would he go about it. Now personally I have been observing this thread for almost a week now and all I've seen is a text book argument over some finer technicalities. The OP has gotten his information and I see no reason to debate over water exchange/loss rates anymore. While I see how this was initially relevant it isn't anymore. Just my

To answer your question, yes this will do. However via my own recommendation and advice I'd say regular Tygon tubing will be fine. Also I have compiled a list of products to help you with your project assuming this is a CPU only loop.

Pump and Integrated CPU block:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16151/ex-blc-1119/Swiftech_Apogee_Drive_II_Pump_and_CPU_Waterblock_Combo_-_Sockets_11551366_APD2-1155-1366.html?tl=g30c107s153

Radiator "240mm":
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14856/ex-rad-332/Alphacool_NexXxoS_UT60_Full_Copper_Dual_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s160#blank

4-Way Splitter with Integrated silver bullet:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15977/ex-tub-1293/Monsoon_999_Fine_Silver_Bullet_Antimicrobial_In-Line_Bundle_Pack.html?tl=g30c103s1676#blank

3/8ID x 1/2OD Compression fittings: (4x quantity needed)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15904/ex-tub-1286/Swiftech_Lok-Seal_Compression_Fitting_G14_Thread_-_38_ID_x_12_OD_-_Black_1-2x3-8-G1-4-CF-BK.html?tl=g30c409s1032

3/8ID x1/2OD Tygon Tubing: (Your choice of color )
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c99/s171/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Tubing-38_x_12_Tubing-Page1.html

G 1/4 Fill Funnel: (To make filling/bleeding your loop easier)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15833/ex-tub-1274/Enzotech_G_14_Fill_Funnel_-_Black_.html?tl=g30c101s1206

Total: $280 USD (without Tubing / Shipping factored in)

Edit:
Don't forget to use "Distilled Water" only in your loop, this along with the silver bullet will insure a clean transfer of heat for a good while. Not to mention that replacing the silver bullet is easy peasy and it's only $6 USD for another one. Also if you are wanting to add a GPU to thsi setup I recommend using quick disconnects for your GPU so you can remove the card and clean it easier. You could also potentially save $100 USD by grabbing a used Corsair H50 and using the pump like I have. I get 32C Idle and up to 60C Load with my setup and I could imagine with a Sandy Bridge CPU this is going to be lower, however keep in mind that if you go this route you will need 1/4ID x 3/8OD sized tubing and fittings as you will be limited to the plastic barbs on the H5Os pump
Edited by Fateful_Ikkou - 10/10/12 at 9:12pm

The easiest way to make a closed loop would be to make a normal custom loop with compression fittings and then weld the compression fittings together. Voila, a closed loop. I just don't really see what advantage this offers.

The only advantage of a closed loop is that you don't need to put it together yourself. So putting together a closed loop yourself rather seems to defeat the purpose. Closed loops aren't any lower maintenance than custom loops - the only difference is that you can't maintain a closed loop even if you wanted to. There's no reason you can't choose not to maintain a custom loop - some people do this for years without a problem.

This is unsound advice there are plenty of ways to make simpler closed loops without any welding, not to mention if set up properly closed loops are about as easy to maintain as a normal loop. Please read up on the thread before giving wild advice like this. TBH I've never heard of anyone advising someone to use a welder to make their loop.

There are +points to using a closed loop, For instance my case and setup doesn't have room for a reservoir and separate pump because of all the modding and equipment I've packed into it. Another plus is that a closed loop looks simpler and cleaner without having tubing going everywhere.