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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1191

post #11901 of 33675
I think you're fine vcore wise...your chip seems to be a dud, that's all.
Good luck with the oc, and try to test the imc later on. It might have a decent one at least, maybe even 2600mhz or 2800mhz worthy. (seems to be the trend with latest batches)
post #11902 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

I think you're fine vcore wise...your chip seems to be a dud, that's all.
Good luck with the oc, and try to test the imc later on. It might have a decent one at least, maybe even 2600mhz or 2800mhz worthy. (seems to be the trend with latest batches)

I'll give it a go, so what is bothering me is why the voltage is dropping when it clocks up, I want to make sure its not a stability problem and I want to get it as low as possible. I had it stable on 4.5 at 1.32 volts
post #11903 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiamondCut View Post

I'll give it a go, so what is bothering me is why the voltage is dropping when it clocks up, I want to make sure its not a stability problem and I want to get it as low as possible. I had it stable on 4.5 at 1.32 volts

what ivan said, you still good with the vcore , np there ..

what do you use to read the vcore, cpu-z?
could be vdroop, even tho you have it set to 100%,
i dont even know what mobo you have, time to fill in your sig DiamondCut ..lol thumb.gif
its not a stability problem when your vcore reading is lower then set in bios,
if it starts to crash maybe, but that could also just mean you need more vcore..
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post #11904 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

what ivan said, you still good with the vcore , np there ..

what do you use to read the vcore, cpu-z?
could be vdroop, even tho you have it set to 100%,
i dont even know what mobo you have, time to fill in your sig DiamondCut ..lol thumb.gif
its not a stability problem when your vcore reading is lower then set in bios,
if it starts to crash maybe, but that could also just mean you need more vcore..

i have a msi M power z77 board. Im going to keep tweaking it until Im happy and sadly it will probably take me a whole afternoon to be satisfied.

EDIT: So also when using SuperPi I assume I calculate the highest value being 32m?
Edited by DiamondCut - 2/15/13 at 8:59am
post #11905 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...I can comment on some of the items, noting that without knowing (or even wanting to ask) re budget, it is a bit more complex re range of options

...and one good spoiler deserves another smile.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

on memory G.Skill Trident X 2x*

I have been using 32 GB G.Skill in all our new machines and love the Trident X...no problems and quick, have oc'ed them before without any extra volts to 2560...make sure your Asus ROG board has the Ram options set to 'mode 2' on the Trident X thumb.gif

on the case

...very good choice, just make sure that you have room for even bigger / more radiators...the way you are going (and I mean that as a compliment), it won't be too long before you will be thinking about a custom loop for your CPU @ 5 Ghz plus with a 360 rad - in addition to another loop / rads for the graphics biggrin.gif. In ""case"" you win the lotto, the Corsair 900D (Godzilla) case will fit your decor per avatar while leaving >>> huge room for expansion

on the video cards

I like the GTX 670ies a lot...if you are courageous, they can be heavily modded via custom bios flash (on this site)... good idea to stick with the same model...I'm currently using two Asus 670 Direct CUii 670ies that are modded, with a third one ready to go in on the weekend just for fun (before that one moves to another system later)...using one model can save you a lot of headaches. The question of 2 vs 4 GB of ram per card comes down to the games you play and resolutions...most of the time, 2 GB will be ok unless you play at 5xxx x 25xx.

I am not sure whether your new build WILL inherit a EVGA 670 and you want to go SLI. Given your wish to water-cool the GPUs - and do so with the H220 - EVGA also makes 680s (and 690ies) that are both ready for that and easily connected to the H220 - look for HydroCopper 680s on their site which are also clocked very fast and will make it much easier for you to set them up with the H220 (noting a caveat on that below).

In general on video cards, you are looking to do this when the NVidia 'Titans' are just about to come out...from what I have seen, one Titan = two 680s, and it apparently also comes with 6 GB of Vram which solves a lot of other problems down the road, such as the intro of 4k monitors. On the other hand, for the first few months, Titan's will be very expensive - yet their introduction will push the prices down of the video cards you are looking at. I picked my 3rd 670 up last week when it dropped by $40, following some news about Titan.

All said and done, if EVGA drops the prices on their 680 HydroCoppers, that might be your best option re integration with your planned system. Otherwise, a company called 'EK' (Slovakia I think) makes all kinds of full water blocks for 670ies and 680ies, with a price tag of between 90 to 110 EUROs, depending on the specific model.

HDD

WD 1TB "Blacks" are the drive of choice for what you are planning in conjunction with SSDs - I use between 3 and 5 of them per system and SSD arrangement.

Water Cooling

There you might have a bit of an issue...you mentioned 'Swiftech H220, ("...plan on adding a second radiator to cool the GPU as well")'. The Swiftech 220 is the best closed-loop solution now and it does allow you to add GPU cooling...I was thinking along the same lines, re a custom loop I am building that has a 360 double-thick radiator and an industrial strength Swiftech pump (MPC655). But someone with a lot of experience with this pointed out to me that running two GPUs that are oce'ed (never mind 3) AND an oc'ed 5 Ghz PLUS CPU is too much for even that arrangement that has more capacity than the H220. In my case, I will run only a CPU loop now and add a second loop later just for the GPUs....for you, it comes down to whether:

a.) you plan to run SLI 670ies (never mind 680s). Even in stock form, 670ies will use up to 144 watts each...just pushing that 'power target slider' in the video options to 122% will add, well, 2x 22% to that.
b.) how far you want to push your 3770K. In stock form, its 'TjMax is 77 watts...by 5.1 Ghz, its - hard to believe - almost three times as much, and that assumes a chip that can do that at relatively low volts.

All this adds quickly to a massive amount of heat energy you will try to get rid off - just invest $20 or so in a kill-a-watt meter and hook it in between the wall and your current system and run some heavy video benchmarks like ' 3D M Vantage - you will be surprised (I was).

I am saying this because you will spend a lot of time to get rid of heat with an IvyBridge running at about 5 Ghz (+ -), yet reintroduce extra heat in a loop that also includes the GPUs - I know you mentioned TWO 240 mm rads which is a big step in the right direction, but I would NOT be surprised that you sooner or later will consider a full-on custom loop each for CPU and GPUs. One quick item for you to check (as I genuinely don't know) is if you can add a separate pump to assist the H220 pump and may be add a 3rd 240 mm (or a smaller 120) rad. This would allow you to run the H220, but allow it to dissipate close to 1000 watts...and that brings me to the PSU...

PSU

I upgraded 3 mth ago from a 650w to an 850w Corsair...after having delidded and benching at 5.3+ as well as adding a 3rd 670, I am looking at that AX1200 lying on the floor waiting for my attention...per above, you want to create some extra headroom for future upgrades, and changing a PSU can be a pain (think of all that cable management... biggrin.gif ). I would recommend that you spend the extra dollars and go up to a AX1200

Motherboard

I make no secret of the fact that I am an 'Asus' fan (I run 3 different models across 5 machines just in my home office, including a Sabertooth Z77 I like - psst, don't tell TD smile.gif ), even though Gigabyte for example also makes some great, fast and solid boards. But as you say, you already know the Bios setup; besides, Asus has the most corporate muscle to maintain great services over long periods, i.e. things we need to download etc., including for their boards that are 8 years old or older. Just as as an example, I have to run some older boards re software compatibilities, and I can always find the 'latest' set of drivers, BIOS and utilities from Asus for boards they have not produced for close to a decade.

I run a Maximus V Extreme (eATX)...while a bit more expensive, it does have some unique features, including Thunderbolt and especially the 'OC Key' which you would very much appreciate, judging by your posts. That said, the Max. Formula and Gene are very similar to it in most other respects...I have 'work plans' for the Max V Extreme down the line when things like Thunderbolt and the extra PCI / Plex expansion slots that are on the Maximus V Extreme will come in handy from a work perspective.

In closing, your choices above are already very solid and very well 'informed' - just keep in mind that business about far more Watts and thus far more cooling and PSU requirements than even a person very good at math tends to assume - and that is before the assured desire to upgrade even more later biggrin.gif ....I would think that by about October, you will very seriously want to build an "IvyB-E' 15 core with Titan SLIs biggrin.gif
Thank you very much!
That was quite literally one of the most helpful posts I have received on any forum.
Here are few of these:
smile.gifbiggrin.gifthumb.gif
And +2 rep.

Couple questions for you in the spoiler: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
To recap, the rig in my signature will stay, this will be an additional machine with all new components. So I think what you said was:
-memory good
-ssd and hdd good
-upgrade the psu to 1200
-mobo, MVF seems fine for this level of build, but I was thinking of saving some money and using the Gene for the lower of my two builds because it will only ever have one GPU. Is the overclocking ability less in the Gene vs. the Formla?
-Switch 810 can fit one large radiator plus another one - not sure if that is enough
-GTX 670 4gb FTW+ seems the way to go for now since Hydrocoppers are not available currently but I will wait until Titan is announced as see if prices change. From what I understand I should just get a full coverage 680 water block and that will fit the 670ftw, unless I am missing something.
-cooling, I think custom water will have to wait for my next build cycle, so I will have to find out if the H220 can really handle this. Maybe I should just stick with 1 gpu for this build. The guys on the H220 thread just told me it can handle 3 overclocked things, I guess we will have to see.
Thanks for all the help!smile.gif
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post #11906 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post


biggrin.gif awesome! Off with its head!

Head was removed and had AS5 on it, so it's getting re-delidded and putting CLU on that BAMF.
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post #11907 of 33675
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiamondCut View Post

i have a msi M power z77 board. Im going to keep tweaking it until Im happy and sadly it will probably take me a whole afternoon to be satisfied.

EDIT: So also when using SuperPi I assume I calculate the highest value being 32m?

1M or 32 M
post #11908 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

1 tube can go a long way (as you only need a little bit) - but just remember if you put it ON THE IHS - then you might lose the markings on it.
Sand paper took away my markings. tongue.gif
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post #11909 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

1M or 32 M

Gotcha, I decided to just run the system at 4.8 24/7

now im trying to adjust the PLL and system voltage to get lowest power consumption.
post #11910 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

1M or 32 M

100M Usain Bolt.
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