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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1198

post #11971 of 33683
I just got my Coolaboratory liquid ultra to apply to my delidded 3770k. Do I just use the half grain rice method or do I spread it on with the little brushes it came with?
 
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post #11972 of 33683
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Oldman I just want to say that I think your new found performance PC enthusiasm is awesome. You're the coolest oldman I know!
Yep, something is definitely wrong with me. Normally I think middle aged guys are supposed to buy corvettes and chase their secretaries. Out of the blue I go buy a bunch of components, and I tell the guy I have never done it before, and don't plan on overclocking anything. Never used BIOS before, and I didn't know the meaning of lapping, delidding, IHS, PCB, or die. Fast forward 6 weeks, and now I am plunging head first in the deep end and I don't know how to swim. As for being drunk, I am not sure but I seem to hear something calling me from the freezer, something about a goose that is grey - I better go check that out.
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post #11973 of 33683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeek View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swag View Post

Should tell on the box. tongue.gif
I swear I'm blind then. I see the product code, s/n, batch#, mm# but date is either nicely hiding or i'm blind, which I am biggrin.gif

Hmm, I'm not sure, it tells it on mine on when it reached the reseller. Whatever, use the batch number then, just look for anything past Nov 19. tongue.gif
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post #11974 of 33683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacer200 View Post

I just got my Coolaboratory liquid ultra to apply to my delidded 3770k. Do I just use the half grain rice method or do I spread it on with the little brushes it came with?
Stick the brush in the syringe, just a little. Then paint the die and the underside of the IHS where you see the stain of the previous Intel TIM.
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post #11975 of 33683
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Stick the brush in the syringe, just a little. Then paint the die and the underside of the IHS where you see the stain of the previous Intel TIM.

Right on thanks!! I'll have my IBT and temps in pretty soon to join the club thumb.gif
 
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post #11976 of 33683
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Thank you very much!
That was quite literally one of the most helpful posts I have received on any forum.
Here are few of these:
smile.gifbiggrin.gifthumb.gif
And +2 rep.

Couple questions for you in the spoiler: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
To recap, the rig in my signature will stay, this will be an additional machine with all new components. So I think what you said was:
-memory good
-ssd and hdd good
-upgrade the psu to 1200
-mobo, MVF seems fine for this level of build, but I was thinking of saving some money and using the Gene for the lower of my two builds because it will only ever have one GPU. Is the overclocking ability less in the Gene vs. the Formla?
-Switch 810 can fit one large radiator plus another one - not sure if that is enough
-GTX 670 4gb FTW+ seems the way to go for now since Hydrocoppers are not available currently but I will wait until Titan is announced as see if prices change. From what I understand I should just get a full coverage 680 water block and that will fit the 670ftw, unless I am missing something.
-cooling, I think custom water will have to wait for my next build cycle, so I will have to find out if the H220 can really handle this. Maybe I should just stick with 1 gpu for this build. The guys on the H220 thread just told me it can handle 3 overclocked things, I guess we will have to see.
Thanks for all the help!smile.gif

...glad I could help a little bit...re rep's - until recently, I did not really know what they were and asked myself why folks had so much of their equipment 'repossessed' , or may be lost out in the computer version of 'pink slips' biggrin.gif ...get proven wrong, loose your rig mad.gif

Since we are getting 'spoiled' :
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
First, to define some parameters, my understanding is that your are really talking about two machines, with the new (second one) running "only" one 670, while the first one is getting a GPU and cooling upgrade

On the mobo

I would whole-hardheartedly recommend the Asus ROG Max Gene...it's OC abilities are very strong; its limitations vs Formula and Extreme have more to do with the number of expansion slots (apart from Thunderbolt; Wi-Fi and built-in eSata SSD)...and a Gene can run SLI / CF with no problems at all.

The Max V E has the MOST slots and for my own purposes that comes in handy (tri-SLI now; co-processor, 10 GIG multi-NIC cards and SAS RAID for a later work environment function). Re OC capability then, the Max V has a bit higher headroom - but we're talking past 6.7 Ghz at LN2 etc .

The other item is what I had mentioned before - the OC Key - it's the software on the screen in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80gmbFwG4Aw (see around 3:40m mark for extra amusement).

Even for OC attempts at 5 Ghz and a bit beyond, the Max Gene is a very strong solution if you don't need the extra slots and OC Key. A friend of mine just finished a build of a Max Gene last week, with a AX1200, 2x 7970s and water-cooling (Thermaltake 2 Ex / 240 rad), ALL IN ONE OF THOSE smaller CoolerMaster HAF cube cases...he needs s.th. this powerful, reliable but also compact as it holds his company's proprietary software re 4K video compression when he travels with it to big US cities for demos with clients...the last thing he wants then is a mobo that isn't top notch. Then there is also the Hardware Editor's 'Gold' award here: http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/06/28/asus_maximus_v_gene_microatx_motherboard_review/7#.UR7e12cmr1J

...so mobo is a no-brainer - Max Gene...for your purposes, really the best option (unless you need more slots or want to OC with LN2...)

PSU

For the dual GPU one, AX 1200/i , or OCZ 1050 gold (I prefer the AX1200)
For the single GPU, your original choice would be fine - but make sure that you don't really want to stuff more video cards in the thing later and then realize that your PSU can't really handle it.

...I am going to get some critiques for this, but I would say that at the bare minimum, assume 220w for your CPU oc 3770K at 5 Ghz, about 400w for your SLI / CF GPUs (single stock 670 = 144 with +22% option; single 680 = 175 + extra w option)...THEN add another 200 watts on top - that should be your PSU (single rail, with as high an efficiency rating as the budget allows).

Cooling

The PSU summary nicely 'segways' into the cooling discussion -which I think is your biggest remaining questions set.

Please have a quick look at this graph (source: Sin0822 / Ivy Bridge Overclocking guide)



Once you get past 5.0 GHz at 1.5v with any kind of decent load, you're looking at 200 watts...at 5.4 with 1.6v its a lot more than that ! So keep that number in your mind as the first 'load factor' for the H220

Now add 'roughly' 350-400 watts for SLI GPUs, depending on their OC state...

My first point would be that I really like the H220, up to its appearance, the Thermaltake 2 Ex was my unit of choice re closed loop...the H220 has the HUGE advantage that apart from some stronger pump components it can be 'modded' with extra cooling arrangements for GPUs etc - in essence, it is a hybrid between a closed-loop and custom-loop (very smart market positioning by Swiftech, btw). You can also 'mod' a Thermaltake 220 or Corsair H100 - but only with a pair of sizzers biggrin.gif

My second point would be that NO MATTER WHAT, a 'stock rad' H220 asked to just cool an OC'ed 5 GHz 3770K (approx 200 watts) will do better temp-wise than one which also carries AN EXTRA 350-400 watts GPU heat (never mind Max Formula VRM wc).

This is not to say, that a H220 cannot handle that; what I was suggesting is the following:

Get the H220 and initially set up your approx 5 Ghz CPU as the only item on it...run it for a few days with reasonable benching / stress testing noting ambient temps as well as system temps....that's your base line right there.

Then add the GPU coolers (more on those below), with an extra 240 rad - run some more reasonable bench / stress tests for a few days noting all the above variables and see how that performs differently.

The kicker is that you probably can add another 120 if not 240 rad, but adding more rads and also two GPUs may obviously make the pump - solid as that one is - work harder...and if you are using the Max Formula board, I believe that it has water-cooling barbs already set up for the VRM, so you would want to throw that one into the loop as well.

What I have seen done before is:
a.) a split of the system into two custom loops (when CPU lowEST temps are critical) or
b.) a 'helper' pump installed into the single loop - in your case the H220.

It should be possible, but I do not know for sure - the best folks to answer that one are the Swiftech reps...just ask them what would happen of you extend the H220 loop to not only cover VRM and two GPUs with a total either two or even three rads, but also throw in one of their free-standing pumps as a 'helper' pump, or as 'extra insurance' (pumps like that are between $60 -$90). It all goes back to whether you ask the H220 to deal with 200+ watts, or 600+ watts of generated heat.

As a somewhat separate but related item, here is a quote from some folks at YouTube who were noting how OCing had changed their cooling requirements: " With the 3770k at stock speeds under full load the H80i will keep the cpu around 60c to 65c,if I overclock it to 4.2ghz the H80i keeps the cpu around mid 80c,I also had the? cpu at 4.6ghz but had to go back to 4.2ghz because at 4.6ghz even with the H80i running at max speed the cpu would get up to 95c.

These ivy bridges are actually hotter than the 6 core Core i7 3930K my other pc with the Core i7 3930K clocked at 4.6ghz doesn't even go over 80c under full load."



A final point on GPU coolers

I mentioned that I'm working on a custom solution which consists of taking generic GPU blocks and add a custom-fab VRM block in a way that can also be transferred to Titans later. However, if I would keep the SLI 670 (instead of Tr-SLI which forces me to deal with the heat in a different way), I would go for full blocks.

As such, I stared asking around to see what actual owners of dual 670 water-cooled blocks were saying... the guys tell me there are only two or three choices ('EK' http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbKDjjY6Wq8 , Heatkiller / watercool.de or YoutTube here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKz9QflIwoM).

I know one person who has had experience with both and he prefers the 'heatkiller', but it seems to be a question of visual design and metal 'quality' for him, rather than a performance question (temp-wise, he said that there were within 2 or 3 degrees of each other).

While you can order direct from those folks, in the USA, FrozenCPU.com would be your best bet for these specialty items...just make sure you know whether your 670ies have what is called a 'reference board design' or a 'custom board' design such as the Asus DirectC-Cuii

Good luck with your new build thumb.gif

Edited by Joa3d43 - 2/16/13 at 3:15am
post #11977 of 33683
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by alancsalt View Post

Batch Codes

The lot code identifier and Intel year and workweek the finished product was manufactured can be viewed by referencing the following FPO# guide:

(x)Test Site, (x)Year, (xx)Workweek, (xx)Lot Code Identifier (xx)Serialisation Code

1st letter or digit = Test Site
0 = San Jose, Costa Rica
1 = Cavite, Philippines
3 = .............., Costa Rica
6 = Chandler, Arizona
7 = .........., Philippines
8 = Leixlip, Ireland
9 = Penang, Malaysia
L = ............, Malaysia
Q = ..........., Malaysia
R = Manila, Philippines
Y = Leixlip, Ireland

2nd digit = Year of production
8 = 2008
9 = 2009
0 = 2010

3rd & 4th digits = Workweek

5th - 6th digits= Lot Code Identifier

7th - 8th digits = Serialisation Code

I prefer this one, much easier to read.

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?278-HOWTO-Read-an-Intel-CPU-FPO-Batch-Code
post #11978 of 33683
Oh I didn't even see his post, lol. Thank you to both of you thumb.gif

So from my understanding I should be looking for some 3232**** with the last 4 digits of the S/N being close to 1000. That's just my theory tongue.gif
Edited by Zeek - 2/15/13 at 7:36pm
post #11979 of 33683
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeG View Post

What are your max temps when running 5.0GHz? I can get a pretty stable 5.0 as long as I keep my temps below 62.

I'm not sure.. I only got it to go through a cinebench at 5ghz with my ram at 1333. With the ram at it's normal 2400 I can't get it to run even at anything below 1.6v. Haven't tried higher..
with 4.9ghz I run 100% stable with 1.45v. looong prime runs, no problems. Max temps are ~65 with the pump & fans at 35%.
    
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post #11980 of 33683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

About a Gallon.

Very nice rig - a true work of art!
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