Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel CPUs › [Official] Delidded Club / Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 123

post #1221 of 33652
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

done! biggrin.gif
took me a while to clean off the old crap (black glue/rubber/RTV) after opening the chip, but using isopropyl alcohol 70%, my nails, paper towels and buffing pad on (chineese version of) my "dremel" did the trick on the PCB biggrin.gif
I had my goof moment when I put everything together and my rig was getting stuck on POST code 20 ... after 3rd (failed) attempt to boot it up I noticed I left out my memory sticks on the desk LOL! doh.gifbiggrin.gif removed them from MB prior to working on CPU to get more working space and forgot to put them back in ha ha! ... but for 5 minutes I was like ... "oh well, time to go to Microcenter and get another chip since my deliding skills suck so bad ..." LOL! doh.gif
PICS of progress:
p1010228s.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
p1010231ub.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
p1010233x.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
p1010234ch.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
as you can see in last picture - something I missed when looking at the die before putting it together - I actually screwed up CL Ultra application in 2 spots ... could be better, oh well, live & learn wink.gif
also, I put some black silicone sealer on the under side of IHS so it stays in place once settled wink.gif ... CPU now after procedure looks same as stock biggrin.gif
anyways here are temps BEFORE & AFTER, nearly 24C improvement in temps under load at 4.6GHz!
on the left side of both screen shots you can see AI Suite Sensor Monitoring, the only 2 you can take note of are temperature sensors OPT1 & OPT2 I use to have an idea of computer air & water conditions and so they are:
a) OPT1 water loop temperature (sensor mounted in drain valve, before returning to reservoir)
b) OPT2 air inlet temperature at computer air intake (and internal 360 rad), sensor mounted on fan shroud
BEFORE (IHS TIM was PK-3):
mve46ghzvcoreoffset0020.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
AFTER (IHS TIM was CL Liquid Ultra):
mve46ghzvcoreoffset0020.png
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
OCN name: feniks
CPU: i7 3770K
on die-TIM: CL Liquid Ultra
ihs-TIM: CL Liquid Ultra
Mhz gained: haven't checked yet
OC after delid: will see what I can do without playing around with room AC
Temp drops: 24C
CPU-Z validation of max OC: will soon get there to see how far I can go after delid.
Will try some OC'ing again to 5GHz and see if I can do this now without playing with my AC acting as a cold air intake to my system haha! biggrin.gif

Accepted! thumb.gif
post #1222 of 33652
I have heard that if you ever need to remove Liquid Pro from die or IHS that it's very hard to remove, is there any truth to this?

@feniks

What type of blade did you use to delid? Also where did you get the glue and what brand?
Edited by Systemlord - 10/20/12 at 7:19pm
post #1223 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I have heard that if you ever need to remove Liquid Pro from die or IHS that it's very hard to remove, is there any truth to this?
@feniks
What type of blade did you use to delid?

Why would u ever have to remove it from the die? it is like a solder so u have to remove it like u would a solder.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770k 5.2ghz  GIGABYTE G1 Assassin Sniper 3 7950 with Alphacool block 7950 w/ Alphacool Block 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
7950 w/ Alphacool block G.SKILL Trident X 2500mhz 2x4gb SanDisk Extreme 240gb sata III 6gbs x5 SwiftTech Apongee Drive II 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsta 360 86mm thick rad X 4 MCP 35X Pump x2 400ML Frozen Q Fusion res x3 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
CatLeap 2560x1440 + Acer hn274h bmiiid 120hz 3D Logitech G19 Corsair Ax1200 watts  Mountain Mods Ascension 
MouseAudio
Logitech M570 Pioneer SP-BS21 Bookshelf Loudspeakers + Lepai Amp 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770k 5.2ghz  GIGABYTE G1 Assassin Sniper 3 7950 with Alphacool block 7950 w/ Alphacool Block 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
7950 w/ Alphacool block G.SKILL Trident X 2500mhz 2x4gb SanDisk Extreme 240gb sata III 6gbs x5 SwiftTech Apongee Drive II 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsta 360 86mm thick rad X 4 MCP 35X Pump x2 400ML Frozen Q Fusion res x3 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
CatLeap 2560x1440 + Acer hn274h bmiiid 120hz 3D Logitech G19 Corsair Ax1200 watts  Mountain Mods Ascension 
MouseAudio
Logitech M570 Pioneer SP-BS21 Bookshelf Loudspeakers + Lepai Amp 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1224 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCWargamer View Post

We may have to just see what we have (for saved temp results) for those of us who have already joined from our pre-delided days, and then do comparisons off of those recorded OC, vcore, and temps. We can't go back to being lidded to redo temp runs!
But for new deliders we can state what we want after what we have learned so far.
1) I'd think 4.5GHz is a reasonable OC as it is typical of what lidded IBs are able to reach.
2) IBT default 10x runs would be good choice for load program
3) Also, for temps, I think the high to high way would be the easiest to do and would have useful info
We can decide on some good club rules, then post them on page one, and hope they are easy and useful enough, while also being standardized and able to generate some useful and helpful information to help others choose good TIMs, and see how delidding can help them get the temps IB can and should have.
What are you guys thoughts on these ideas?


I like this, I vote with PCwargamer, and not just because he had the most epic avatar ever and traded it out with a yoga master. I actually don't know what the diff is between pre a post lid on my chip. So I will be of no help when it come to the spread sheet. But for new comers, it makes sense. I do get grandfathered in right. biggrin.gif
post #1225 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

Why would u ever have to remove it from the die? it is like a solder so u have to remove it like u would a solder.

So it's that permanent, I guess that's a good thing, will it keep the IHS on the die even if you remove the CPU from the MB?
post #1226 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

So it's that permanent, I guess that's a good thing, will it keep the IHS on the die even if you remove the CPU from the MB?

I do not know if it will maybe after awhile it will get thicker and make a great bond.. I do know however it does not in 2 hrs lol.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770k 5.2ghz  GIGABYTE G1 Assassin Sniper 3 7950 with Alphacool block 7950 w/ Alphacool Block 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
7950 w/ Alphacool block G.SKILL Trident X 2500mhz 2x4gb SanDisk Extreme 240gb sata III 6gbs x5 SwiftTech Apongee Drive II 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsta 360 86mm thick rad X 4 MCP 35X Pump x2 400ML Frozen Q Fusion res x3 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
CatLeap 2560x1440 + Acer hn274h bmiiid 120hz 3D Logitech G19 Corsair Ax1200 watts  Mountain Mods Ascension 
MouseAudio
Logitech M570 Pioneer SP-BS21 Bookshelf Loudspeakers + Lepai Amp 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770k 5.2ghz  GIGABYTE G1 Assassin Sniper 3 7950 with Alphacool block 7950 w/ Alphacool Block 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
7950 w/ Alphacool block G.SKILL Trident X 2500mhz 2x4gb SanDisk Extreme 240gb sata III 6gbs x5 SwiftTech Apongee Drive II 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsta 360 86mm thick rad X 4 MCP 35X Pump x2 400ML Frozen Q Fusion res x3 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
CatLeap 2560x1440 + Acer hn274h bmiiid 120hz 3D Logitech G19 Corsair Ax1200 watts  Mountain Mods Ascension 
MouseAudio
Logitech M570 Pioneer SP-BS21 Bookshelf Loudspeakers + Lepai Amp 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1227 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

Accepted! thumb.gif
thank you! smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I have heard that if you ever need to remove Liquid Pro from die or IHS that it's very hard to remove, is there any truth to this?
@feniks
What type of blade did you use to delid? Also where did you get the glue and what brand?
I used a regular single sided razor blade (10-pack from local Lowe's like this)
The black "glue" is an automotive silicone based sealant good up to 200F (seals even against water and such) or so, like this from a local Harbor Freight Tools store.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

Why would u ever have to remove it from the die? it is like a solder so u have to remove it like u would a solder.
I had to ... for some reason core #2 (counting 0,1,2,3) stays 13C hotter than others. Liquid Ultra stays liquid and it doesn't turn solid even after a few burn-in cycles (not sure about later) ... long story short, despite re-brushing, re-applying it 3 times under the IHS, temps of core #2 stay hotter than others and there's nothing I seem to be able to do about it frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by neopunx View Post

I like this, I vote with PCwargamer, and not just because he had the most epic avatar ever and traded it out with a yoga master. I actually don't know what the diff is between pre a post lid on my chip. So I will be of no help when it come to the spread sheet. But for new comers, it makes sense. I do get grandfathered in right. biggrin.gif
I do agree:
-4.5GHz as a baseline achievable for all
-quick 10 rounds of IBT 2.54 Standard (1GB RAM used) as a baseline load test and max temp generator for all cores
-comparing hottest before deliding (core1 for me) to hottest after deliding (core2 for me) seems like the best method - reasoning is simple you can't go higher than hottest core go, it limits the clocks (thermally) at 105C, no matter which core hits the limits, the whole die downclocks to cool down.
-we also should all use the same core temp monitoring program, e.g. RealTemp 3.70
post #1228 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

thank you! smile.gif
I used a regular single sided razor blade (10-pack from local Lowe's like this)
The black "glue" is an automotive silicone based sealant good up to 200F (seals even against water and such) or so, like this from a local Harbor Freight Tools store.
I had to ... for some reason core #2 (counting 0,1,2,3) stays 13C hotter than others. Liquid Ultra stays liquid and it doesn't turn solid even after a few burn-in cycles (not sure about later) ... long story short, despite re-brushing, re-applying it 3 times under the IHS, temps of core #2 stay hotter than others and there's nothing I seem to be able to do about it frown.gif
I do agree:
-4.5GHz as a baseline achievable for all
-quick 10 rounds of IBT 2.54 Standard (1GB RAM used) as a baseline load test and max temp generator for all cores
-comparing hottest before deliding (core1 for me) to hottest after deliding (core2 for me) seems like the best method - reasoning is simple you can't go higher than hottest core go, it limits the clocks (thermally) at 105C, no matter which core hits the limits, the whole die downclocks to cool down.
-we also should all use the same core temp monitoring program, e.g. RealTemp 3.70


Liquid Pro and Liquid Ultra are not the samethings..

Looking at your Die there no where close.. Liquid Metal pro looks like pure melted metal with nothing else in it. Kinda like that liquid metal guy from Terminator 2. it is also Impossible not to get a perfect spread with it.. Greatest stuff ive ever worked with as far as that goes.

Edited by Hokies83 - 10/20/12 at 9:21pm
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770k 5.2ghz  GIGABYTE G1 Assassin Sniper 3 7950 with Alphacool block 7950 w/ Alphacool Block 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
7950 w/ Alphacool block G.SKILL Trident X 2500mhz 2x4gb SanDisk Extreme 240gb sata III 6gbs x5 SwiftTech Apongee Drive II 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsta 360 86mm thick rad X 4 MCP 35X Pump x2 400ML Frozen Q Fusion res x3 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
CatLeap 2560x1440 + Acer hn274h bmiiid 120hz 3D Logitech G19 Corsair Ax1200 watts  Mountain Mods Ascension 
MouseAudio
Logitech M570 Pioneer SP-BS21 Bookshelf Loudspeakers + Lepai Amp 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770k 5.2ghz  GIGABYTE G1 Assassin Sniper 3 7950 with Alphacool block 7950 w/ Alphacool Block 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
7950 w/ Alphacool block G.SKILL Trident X 2500mhz 2x4gb SanDisk Extreme 240gb sata III 6gbs x5 SwiftTech Apongee Drive II 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsta 360 86mm thick rad X 4 MCP 35X Pump x2 400ML Frozen Q Fusion res x3 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
CatLeap 2560x1440 + Acer hn274h bmiiid 120hz 3D Logitech G19 Corsair Ax1200 watts  Mountain Mods Ascension 
MouseAudio
Logitech M570 Pioneer SP-BS21 Bookshelf Loudspeakers + Lepai Amp 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1229 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

I have heard that if you ever need to remove Liquid Pro from die or IHS that it's very hard to remove, is there any truth to this?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1283797/ivy-bridge-3770k-de-lid-liquid-pro-as-5-tested-amazing-results/30#post_18342699
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCWargamer View Post

Good info VonDutch. About as good a explanation as I have seen so far on this issue. I'm going to use the Ultra myself because of this concern: "...easy to apply but a pain to remove requiring either scrubbing with wire wool or mild lapping. Sometimes it also temporarily 'welded' my block to the IHS needing a bit of force to remove it." It may be the PRO is slightly better, and that I will not be needing to remove it much, but just the thought of it sticking to my die and possibly needing force to remove it made me want to avoid that possibility. Maybe I will lose some temps, but I hope not enough to worry about in the midst of the gains I hope to get through deliding.


for 10 bucks orso you could buy their cleaningset, if you ever need to clean

http://www.coollaboratory.com/de/produkte/liquid-cleaning-set/
that should do it i think, in 3 phases smile.gif

personally i havent got mine off again yet, its only under there for a short period so ..
thats why i wanted to collect some info of us using liquid ultra on the die,
instead of liquid pro, to see if it works as good/better temp wise,
liquid ultra should be easier to remove later on..
when time comes, i will use the cleaningset, for 10 bucks im not gonna try
use the normal rubbing alcohol, wire wool or use other means to clean it..
BamBam
(17 items)
 
Pebbles
(14 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
amd 8350 my kids rig :) Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 Gigabyte 7970 windforce Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
500gb OZC vertex 4  Scythe Mugen 3 rev b windows 8.1 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
acer 23 inch logitech G510 XFX ProSeries 750W XXX Edition Cooler Master CM 690 II 
MouseAudio
dell  Logitech X-530 
  hide details  
Reply
BamBam
(17 items)
 
Pebbles
(14 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
amd 8350 my kids rig :) Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 Gigabyte 7970 windforce Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
500gb OZC vertex 4  Scythe Mugen 3 rev b windows 8.1 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
acer 23 inch logitech G510 XFX ProSeries 750W XXX Edition Cooler Master CM 690 II 
MouseAudio
dell  Logitech X-530 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1230 of 33652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

Liquid Pro and Liquid Ultra are not the samethings..
Looking at your Die there no where close.. Liquid Metal pro looks like pure melted metal with nothing else in it. Kinda like that liquid metal guy from Terminator 2. it is also Impossible not to get a perfect spread with it.. Greatest stuff ive ever worked with as far as that goes.
yeah, I've seen those videos for both kinds of CLL paste, hence why I went with Ultra - creates a thicker layer (easier to make a proper contact on first try) and is extremely easy to clean even with 70% alcohol and paper towels! It's like mercury when you work with it and brushing it on. based on reviews and opinions from other people temps are similar even though Pro has twice the thermal conductivity of Ultra.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

http://www.overclock.net/t/1283797/ivy-bridge-3770k-de-lid-liquid-pro-as-5-tested-amazing-results/30#post_18342699
for 10 bucks orso you could buy their cleaningset, if you ever need to clean

http://www.coollaboratory.com/de/produkte/liquid-cleaning-set/
that should do it i think, in 3 phases smile.gif
personally i havent got mine off again yet, its only under there for a short period so ..
thats why i wanted to collect some info of us using liquid ultra on the die,
instead of liquid pro, to see if it works as good/better temp wise,
liquid ultra should be easier to remove later on..
when time comes, i will use the cleaningset, for 10 bucks im not gonna try
use the normal rubbing alcohol, wire wool or use other means to clean it..
Ultra is very good and extremely easy to work with (easier than ICD Diamond for sure), there is nothing extra needed to clean it and the package contains brushes for application and some scratch pad to removal in future (if it gets more slid, I guess, otherwise paper towels and alcohol removes it)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Intel CPUs
Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel CPUs › [Official] Delidded Club / Guide